Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by garage gnome, Jan 6, 2018.
If I told you you'd never believe me
A+++ for illustrations and explanations.
Thanks Howard. I don’t think there is enough room under the floor but I’ll have to see. Makes much more sense now!
Nate, if you don't have enough room for a control valve in the steering shaft maybe a valve in the drag link is plan B. Here's a link for an early Corvette control valve that may work.
That does look like the answer. Wonder what the thread is that the drag link screws into?
Can't answer thread size question but did find a link (.PDF) showing how to rebuild one. The tapered stud is actually a ball stud; with any luck it may be the same size ball as the end of the Jeep pitman arm or bell crank. In other words, remove ball stud and mount directly to pitman arm or bell crank.
You might want to consider a mid 60's early 70's Ford unit, the one I have uses the same thread & same taper on the ball stud as a jeep TRE.
So heres a new issue. Found out the Ford valve uses 5/16 and 1/4" inverted flare ( brake line) fittings. I am having a hard time finding fittings to go to -6 AN, which is what my pump and cylinder uses...I'll be using 6 JIC fittings though.
It appears the GM valve uses the o-ring style fittings which I can get adapters for easily. Only thing with that is, I don't know what size the taper stud is.
Ok, so I found the size of the taper stud for the corvette valve. I think this is too small for the bell crank though. The drawing is at the bottom of the page.
Do you have access to a lathe? If so get the bigger stud he mentions & cut the ball down on the lathe with a ball turning attachment.
I have a lathe, but I can only do simple stuff on it. My friend might be able to do it though.
Google "ball turning", the setup isn't that complicated.
Well that seems simple enough. I guess the corvette valve is a go!
Have I mentioned Corvette valves were built by Bendix?
See post #2
I got the corvette valve in yesterday. My following observations are as follows:
The bad news: it takes inverted flare fittings and the end that the drag link would attach to is an oddball 1-1/16" - 18 thread.
The good news: the taper stud is the same as the jeep one, there are hydraulic hose ends that have the proper inverted flare available and it is small, compact and fits nicely under the jeep.
So, I'll have to make an adapter to connect the valve to the drag link. I can order the hydraulic fittings from our supplier at work and I can make up my own hoses. Unfortunately, they only come in #4 hose and I wanted to use #6 hose. This whole hydro assist thing might just work now.
GO NATE GO!
Finally some forward progress!
The drag link all mocked up. I have to make a double ended stud, one side 11/16-18 to go in the coupler and the other side to screw into the valve. I also have to get a tapered insert so I can flip the drag link and it will be nice and flat.
Got the fan situation sorted out too. I got a 1" fan spacer from summit racing made by flexalite. They offered one with an 1-1/8" hole, which fits the Lhead water pump. I had to make a bushing for the other side to take it from 5/8" to the 1-1/8".
And bolted on, the fan has a 1/4" gap between it and the PS pump pulley. Looks good to me! The gap I used to have between the air compressor and the fan was much closer than that. The fan has the marks to prove it.
Nate, can you mount the cylinder the other way? As I said earlier one of the downfalls of this system is that hose flex will eventually cause issues with leaks. If you mount the cylinder the other way around the valve & cylinder will move together (ish) which will make things last better.
I like the way this is coming together. On other systems I’ve seen on big trucks, the valve is located at the pitman arm. The location would also offer some protection for the valve. I’m not sure if there’s room enough. Keep up the good work.
It sure looks like I can. That's a good idea. As far as moving the valve, that is the best spot. Everywhere else is pretty tight.
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