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t-case is back in

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by AKCJ, Jun 16, 2005.

  1. Jun 16, 2005
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2003
    Messages:
    1,035
    Finally finished rebuilding the d18 and got it back in and buttoned up last night. Went for a test drive and guess what? It's quiet!
    Last summer when it was real loud I thought it was the (SM420) trans so didn't worry about it until I heard the sound of teeth breaking off of gears - boy that's not a pretty sight. Check your intermediate shaft now!
    Got nearly all parts from Herm. Got a free donor to convert to twin stick which I can tell already is THE way to go.
    Could never have done the rebuild without all the help I found here.
    And, it's leaking from where the speedo cable screws on? New speedo cable and it's on a tight as I can turn it with fingers. Any advice?


    1970 CJ-5, 225 V-6, headers, HEI, PS, D30 Fr, 44 Rr, ARB's, SM420 w/ Novak, D18 single stick, 33" TSL Radials, Ramsey REP 5000, Sky Jacker Soft Ride,
     
  2. Jun 16, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    Teflon tape on the threads??

    Congrats on the successful rebuild!! :)
     
  3. Jun 16, 2005
    MOP

    MOP Active Member

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2003
    Messages:
    1,131
    My freshly rebuilt tc leaks there too.
     
  4. Jun 16, 2005
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,466
    The spedo setup is fabricated with a 'leak' - since a jeep doesn't have a leg to raise that's what they use to mark their spots. :p

    I have only ever had a couple that didn't leak there.
     
  5. Jun 16, 2005
    DoubleK

    DoubleK New Member

    Lubbock, TX
    Joined:
    May 4, 2004
    Messages:
    41
    In my 300 there was a seal on the speedo shaft, had to pull the fitting the calble attaches to then remove the shaft. That seal was trashed and I found an O-ring that would fit. D-20s may be significantly different.
    I can't be sure that worked on mine since I have so many other issues it isn't driveable.
     
  6. Jun 16, 2005
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2003
    Messages:
    1,035
    It's just odd that it's leaking there now but didn't before - I didn't really change anything that I would think would make a difference. I will research the seal idea before I remove the fitting.
    Lynn - I don't think it's the threads as the cable attaches more like a flare fitting so that the "nut" just holds it on. I think it's leaking out from the center hole in the back of the "nut" where the cable goes through it. Maybe an o-ring there would help? (inside the "nut"). I will take another look.
     
  7. Jun 16, 2005
    Roboter

    Roboter Klaatu Barada Jeepto

    Loomis California
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    Messages:
    316
    Don't mean to hijack this thread but while we are on the subject of rebuilding, my case is going to be needing it soon. Rebuilding it myself is a little beyond the skill level at the moment so I was just going to yank the case along with the tranny, and send it to Herm next winter. I was eyeballing his overdrives, twin stick conversion and new drum brake assembly.:shock: Might as well get it all done at once and done right. Right? Yea, I ain't gonna eat nothing but noodles for the next six months after I get it back but what do you guys think? :shock:
     
  8. Jun 16, 2005
    MOP

    MOP Active Member

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2003
    Messages:
    1,131

    I wanted to do the same, but the cost of shipping and paying out all the labor convinced me to do it myself. It really is not that difficult. I spent far more time cleaning and painting the tranny and tc than actually doing the assembly. Not much skill required at all. I had never even seen the inside of either before doing it myself. The instructions available for both rebuilds are more than adequate. Removing, cleaning, and re-installing were way more work.
     
  9. Jun 16, 2005
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2003
    Messages:
    1,035
    Robo,
    Herm could do it - that's for sure. Due to shipping you may also consider having a local shop do it but you first need to make sure that will pay attention to a few details, ie make sure they have the experience to do it right. That's one of the advantages of doing your own - you can take your time and make sure it is correct. Read Rick Sivers (spelling?) guide a few times & that will help even if you don't do the work yourself.

    You may also consider R&P or Nickmil as they are both closer to you then Herm.
     
  10. Jun 16, 2005
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    5,349

    I agree with Mike, it is not that hard to rebuild, it will take more time cleaning and painting than anything. Here are a couple of suggestions, fill out your profile so we know where you're located, a member may live close enough to help with the rebuild for a bucket of chicken and a :beer:. Another is to contact Nickmill he has the twins stick conversions also, thats where I got mine, I think it was $65. You can get a rebuild kit from Novak or Herm for the dana18 and if you can turn a wrench and can follow directions there are plenty of people here to help and several write ups on the net that are extremely helpful, photographs and all, a good service manual would also help. It took me about 4 hours to take mine out the 1st time, about 8 hours to clean and paint it and about 5 hours to rebuild and reassemble. It took about 2 hours to put the twin stick kit in about 10 years after I rebuilt it the 1st time. The only real tools you need are basic wrenches and a few pieces of PVC, aluminum or wooden dowels to assist in putting the shafts back in, along with a jar of vasoline or wheelbearing grease, access to a press or some means of pressing a couple of seals in the cases and a set of Eaton style snap ring pliers, not necessary but very very helpful with the C-clips inside the transfer case, a drop indicator and a mag base for setting bearing preload. You can get one of these at Harbor freight for $20 or the flea market is also a good place for a used one. They are very straight forward and not as difficult as people think!;)
     
  11. Jun 16, 2005
    Roboter

    Roboter Klaatu Barada Jeepto

    Loomis California
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    Messages:
    316
    Done! Heh, I will give up a bathtub full of Ostrich if any one in close proximity can help me thru the hard stuff. :D
     
  12. Jun 17, 2005
    Roboter

    Roboter Klaatu Barada Jeepto

    Loomis California
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    Messages:
    316
    Hey guys on a serious note... I will attempt the rebuild, and if at worse case manage to screw things up, I can still send it out. 8)
     
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