Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Steve's 70-5, Jan 2, 2013.
Looks great!, I also need to do the disk break conversion, next summer I hope!
Got Power Steering Pump bracket mounted.
Re-ran brake lines for the rear disc calipers. Made some brackets to end the hard lines into the flex lines.
If you have bump stops in the rear you should rotate those toward the back to clear them.
Started Saginaw, Power Steering upgrade.
What steering gear are you using?
I'm wanting to upgrade the blue cj6 to power Saginaw.
I got a box for a J-10, 4 1/4 turns lock to lock. I think was for a 1977
Doing a mock up, trying to figure out steering column length. Steering wheel and adapter heights have to be figured in. After that, I will have to figure out if I should use a front or rear dump exhaust manifold.
That’s allot of angle on the column base joint.
I ended up running three joints on my steering shaft with a heim joint in the middle. One at the column, one near the heim and one at the box.
I may have pics in my build. I would snap pics but my Jeep got relinquished to storage in a shipping container off site for the winter.
I noticed that angle, have not ordered anything yet. More to figure out.
Great way to simulate the steering column, very practical execution.
Looks like you got it positioned pretty good, that being said... if you already have the hoses you intend to use then fit them up to the gear and check for clearance between the installed hoses to the bottom of the grill.
Things can get very tight in that area.
I see the high mount PS pump bracket, which will keep the front-dump manifold from pointing at the pump, which is good. In my experience, the 231 manifold would hit the steering shaft, can't quite tell from the photo. In fact, I have never pulled this off using anything but fender well headers, so I will be watching.
Picked up Roxor pedals, booster with master cylinder and clutch master cylinder.
Got the steering column in, still moving it up and down, finding the right spot. Got the Roxor pedal stuck in with a couple of tech. screws. Sorting out the up and down location of them.
I have a V-6 engine in the Jeep
Got the Roxor Pedals installed. Cut holes for the master cylinder then installed the Roxor booster and master cylinder. The booster is hitting the valve cover. Will have to move the pedal assembly. The pedal mounting plate is 3/4 inch from the bottom of the metal on the cowl. The brake pedal arm is about 1/2 inch from the steering column.
I plan on moving the pedal assembly up about 5/8 inch and to the left about 1/4 inch. This should let the booster clear the valve cover. The only question is when the engine torques, will it hit the booster. I can cut the corner of the Pedal Mounting Plate and move it up more to give more valve cover clearance.
The Pedals mounted was real easy, the only thing I ran into was the pedal was close to the under seat gas tank. It was hard to get your foot on the brake pedal. I can moved the pedal away from the gas tank. When doing this, it reduces the swing of the pedal, which reduces the throw of the rod into the master cylinder. Made a post in the Roxor Tech section with the part number for the Master Cylinder, hoping someone can find information on the throw of the Master Cylinder.
How much does a engine move when under acceleration?
It's good to know that the roxor pedals were a pretty easy install, but they sure do look close. Does the torque of the engine pull it to the drivers side or passenger? I can't remember, but that would be convenient if it moved right hahaha
The Frame/ engine move quite a bit. If you 4wd on hard stuff.... they move allot.
My brake pedal is on the left side of the column. This gave me more room for the gas pedal.
This will move the booster away from the engine, will have to look at that.
Separate names with a comma.