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Some headway on the 67, slow and steady!

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by IRQVET, Feb 25, 2015.

  1. Feb 25, 2015
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Tallahassee, FL.
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2015
    Messages:
    680
    I've only had it for a month, but I did a few things over the past couple of weeks. I'm getting ready to start putting it back together and then get her running again after many years (Fingers crossed). Once I get it running I'll then decide which direction I want to go with this build.

    http://s1302.photobucket.com/user/dean3po/slideshow/1967 Jeep CJ5
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2019
  2. Feb 25, 2015
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Hesperia, CA.
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2012
    Messages:
    2,160
    Just looking though your photos, your dash looks pretty good.

    Almost has the holes where I wanna put mine on my new dash.... jeep toss
     
  3. Feb 25, 2015
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Tallahassee, FL.
    Joined:
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    Last edited: Feb 25, 2015
  4. Feb 25, 2015
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Hesperia, CA.
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2012
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    Not bad at all.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2015
  5. Feb 25, 2015
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Tulsa, OK
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    Great job on getting the frame straightened, looks real good!
     
  6. Feb 25, 2015
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Tallahassee, FL.
    Joined:
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    My neighbor did it for me, he is a metal fabricator and he grew up fixing circle track vehicles. The way he did it was a really low tech but smart as hell. He is an Fj40 guy and he was amazed how thin the metal on Jeep frames are compared to his rig.

    Imagine a very large Crescent Wrench slipped onto the lip of the frame. Then a second very large Crescent Wrench affixed to the top of the first one; so that way he could use the bottom one to bend the metal up and down, and the second one to bend the metal side to side. (or maybe that was reversed? I can't remember) It was extremely effective and made quick work of the kink in the frame. The kink/bend in the frame was straightened in about 5 minutes.

    To get the entire frame rail to move where he wanted it, he took a large pry bar and used c-clamps to hold it securely in place on the inner side of the frame rail. Then both of us muscled the bar up and down/ side to side until it was straight again.

    He took a square to ensure the frame horns were perfectly straight along the rest of the frame rails. By the time the frame was straight the front suspension shackles were off by about 2 inches. So we jacked up the Jeep and with the suspension loose, we muscled the suspension back to where it was originally; and then bolted everything back up again.

    Reminds me of that old saying, "It may be simple and stupid, but works, maybe it isn't so stupid."

    The engine parts I stripped using an electrolysis bath, simple and doesn't require sanding or any chemicals. After their bath I media blasted them before primer and paint. The valve covers were painted with high heat Pontiac Blue Metallic (DE1616). The Dauntass stickers were applied and then I clear coated over everything. The intake manifold was painted with silver metallic high temp BBQ paint. The air cleaner is the same one rusty one that was on it when I got the Jeep. I just threw it into the electrolysis bath and hit it with etching primer and semi gloss black paint; then I put on the K&N air cleaner and K&N valve cover filter and it was a wrap after that.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2015
  7. Mar 4, 2015
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Tallahassee, FL.
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2015
    Messages:
    680
    ![​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    Got my new dash panel in the mail today from Walck's 4-Wheel Drive, I'm very pleased with the fitment and quality, especially considering it almost half the price of other dash panels online. ($134 Shipped) No modifications needed, and every hole lined up perfectly. If your on the fence, don't be!
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2015
    Cowboyjeeper likes this.
  8. Mar 28, 2015
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Tallahassee, FL.
    Joined:
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    I continued to strip the body down to bare metal. Its very labor intensive, but its kind cool because I can tell its never been done, and the story you learn about your Jeep is interesting. You can uncover both good and bad previous repairs. I found one, two 3 inch holes near the tail lights that were completely rusted through, and bondo covering the holes. The rust was cut out and new sheet metal welded in.

    I am dusting off my old auto body skills when I used to strip aircraft from the mid 90's. With that being said, I am a new welder and I do not have a ton of experience with body filler as its not used on aircraft because of weight distribution.

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
    After I sling some body filler (very little) I'll be priming my Jeep with this Polyester Primer Surfacer from Evercoat. I'm going with the Buff color in the event the paint scratches, it will be less noticeable with the paint color. As far as color is concerned, I'm think I'll be going with a Titanium semi flat similar to the this:
    [​IMG]
    It will look similar to the Icon CJ3B but just a bit different.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2015
  9. Apr 1, 2015
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
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    Watch the air in the filler as you mix it. A little goes a long way and just try to 'smoooothhh' it. On a jeep, good enough is the right attitude... its a jeep.

    I go for the 10/10 or 20/15 rule - looking good at 10 feet and 10 MPH :D
     
  10. Apr 2, 2015
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Tallahassee, FL.
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    Have you used G2 before? I never have so I'm curious if you have any insight.
     
  11. Apr 2, 2015
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
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    I have not used that one before. Most of my work has been with the old original Bondo. We used the two types, one for build and another glaze for the final coat.
     
  12. Apr 24, 2015
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Tallahassee, FL.
    Joined:
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    I just got done laying it on the inside of the hood (seemed like a safe place to start in case I have an "opps") and even with 1.7 tip it was pretty labored coming out of the gun with about a 5 inch spread ( In hindsight, I should have thinned it down with acetone). Dried glossier than I expected. Those are just a few observations.
     
  13. Apr 26, 2015
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Tallahassee, FL.
    Joined:
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    Did some more body work today.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. May 2, 2015
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Tallahassee, FL.
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    Hit the 5 with some surfacer and guide coat. I still need to do the grill. After which I will sand down and then use a primer/sealer before paint.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  15. May 3, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    Did you get it running? Sorry if I missed that post/thread. I've seen HEI conversion talk but unclear if the CJ has ran yet. Do you have a punch list?
     
  16. May 3, 2015
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Tallahassee, FL.
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    Not running yet.

    Punch List Includes:

    - Install the HEI
    - Reinstall the manifolds and hook up the exhaust
    - Replace the wiring
    - Reinstall the battery
    - Finish installing the carb
    - Replace the fuel lines
    - Purchase and install emergency brake
    - Purchase & install a new Speed-o
    - Get an front end alinement
    - Refabricate new mounts for the radiator to move it an inch or so towards the passenger side (clearance issue)

    I have another list of wants, but this will get it running and moving down the road.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2015
  17. May 4, 2015
    68 Coronet R/T

    68 Coronet R/T Member

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    I have used the G2 a number of times. Even with a 1.8 tip it needs just a wee bit of Acetone to get it to spray right. These polyester primers are like a spray on body filler and great for vehicles with lots of smaller issues. You can also apply body filler over them where needed since it is the same material.
    When using any filler the trick is to spread well past the dent you are trying to fill and then use the longest sanding block feasible to sand the filler. This will allow it to gently taper out and feather into the surrounding surface. Also, you never want to press real hard on a sanding block so change the paper as soon as it quits cutting.
     
  18. May 4, 2015
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Tallahassee, FL.
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    Thats good to hear. So I'll hit it with 220 and then use an epoxy primer I found from Summit. I also have armor for it that needs to be mocked up, and I still need to address the roll bar. I'm still a little wary of turning it into a cage with my sub par fabrication skills- I'm still learning.
     
  19. May 10, 2015
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Tallahassee, FL.
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    Rutt rowe, what part did I loose cause this doesn't look right . . . its the manifold going into the exhaust BTW.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. May 10, 2015
    uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    Greeley CO
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2009
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    I'm guessing that is the passenger side. You are missing the heat riser. The heat controlled dealie that supposedly helps warm the engine. One of my V6s has the part, the other doesn't. both seem to warm up the same. Try a WTB or have the muffler shop fix the end of the pipe.
     
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