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Setting the U-joint angle with a dana 20 and a AMC 20

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Kaiserjeeps, Aug 10, 2007.

  1. Aug 10, 2007
    Kaiserjeeps

    Kaiserjeeps New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2003
    Messages:
    38
    I'm working on a 79 CJ-5 for a friend. I have to make a new frame cross member because his is so damaged. I'm building one out of 2 inch tubing (2 each) and I was wanting to set the transfer case on a new mount somewhere in the ball park as the original angle. I can fine tune the U-joint angle with shims later if need be. I was hoping some one out there with an original undamaged (bent upwards) cross member could run the Dana 20 output yoke to a verticle position and stretch a string over the top of the frame rails and take a measurement of the drop from the string to the center line of the U-joint U-bolt holes at the top of the yoke. Currently my friends U-bolt holes are exactly equal with the top of the frame rails. I know this is to high. My friend currently has the factory T-18 four speed however the trans should not matter here. I just need the drop measured for the rear yoke. Thank you and I'll check back.
     
  2. Aug 13, 2007
    Kaiserjeeps

    Kaiserjeeps New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2003
    Messages:
    38
    I'll bring it back to the top once. If I could find my angle finder I would have had it welded by now. Could someone PLEASE throw a string line across the top of their frame and measure how far down the center line of the U-joint U-bolt bolt holes are with the yoke in the verticle position? It would be very helpful.
     
  3. Aug 14, 2007
    Rick

    Rick Member

    Hanson,Ma.
    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2006
    Messages:
    287
    I get 5/8 inch from the top of the frame with the yoke in a vertical position. This dimension is 1/2 way between the top and bottom set of U bolt holes. This is with a Dana 20 and D44, so it might no apply.
    I hope that's what you meant. :?
     
  4. Aug 17, 2007
    Kaiserjeeps

    Kaiserjeeps New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2003
    Messages:
    38
    It's a ballpark measurement that will put me close to the right driveline U-joint phase. I spent yesterday and today bending up and welding a new cross member together. There are 2 two inch tubing cross member pieces formed to go under the trans and around the back of the bottom of the transfer case. The trans mount plate is a 3/8th's piece 4 inches wide welded between the two tubes. Same with the torque snubber. It has it's own piece welded between the two tubes. It turned out way better than I expected. I have a loaner tubing bender and it's pretty cool. Now for a smooth aluminum skid plate and it's removal for final welding and paint.

    Thanks for responding. I appreciate it.
     
  5. Aug 17, 2007
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,538
    Aluminum skid plate? Sounds non-functional.
     
  6. Aug 17, 2007
    Kaiserjeeps

    Kaiserjeeps New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2003
    Messages:
    38
    A skid plate does not have to be steel. I have had a AL skid plate under my wagoneer coffin gas tank for many years and used it hard on the Rubicon. It saved me from a ruptured gas tank. I also have had a AL skid plate under my CJ-5 for about 6 years now and it works very well. I also have a custom high clearance cross member on the CJ. You need to mount it to something sturdy.
    I was so happy with the results I built another skid plate out of aluminum for my CJ fuel tank. For safety insurance I installed steel mounting straps inside the AL skid plate under the gas tank in case I hit it hard enough to break a weld. So it has to break the AL skid plate and tear the steel straps for the tank to come loose. I do not pamper my jeep and I know I can trust my work and design. I wouldn't run it if it didn't work.
    Aluminum works very well. Try it some time.
     
  7. Aug 17, 2007
    Kaiserjeeps

    Kaiserjeeps New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2003
    Messages:
    38
    Here are some pic's so you can follow what I'm talking about. I needed to pressure wash it to remove the mud and solid color (brown). The front attaches to both motor mounts also strengthening the frame with a girdle. The oil pan and skid plate were notched to clear the yoke on the Dana 44. All drain plugs are fully accessible. It is 10 inches wide below the motor and trans. Bosses can be pressed in the Aluminum up or down using a bearing press and the right home made dies. It comes off in minutes. And every time I take it off it's still in way better shape than my original steel skid plate ever was. The only thing I would do differently is make it smooth Aluminum. The Diamond plate was all I had on hand at the time. Pretty functional really.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And to put this thread back on track. Here is the cross member I built yesterday for the 79 CJ I was originally inquiring about sans final welding and some specific gussets and lastly an Aluminum skid plate.

    [​IMG]
     
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