Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Buildflycrash, Feb 28, 2018.
Were you running points/condensor in Colorado?
No, I have the Pentronix thing. It works fine but I think the distributor is just worn out. It moves around more than just spinning when I adjust the timing. The Pentronix is for sale in a couple days. Or maybe a couple weeks, I better take it for a backup on my first wheeling trip.
Here we go! Jumping into the next big upgrades!
I have a Ford T18 granny 4speed and pedals from a '91 YJ going into my Jeep.
First thing was to remove all the old pedals and clutch and brake systems from the jeep.
You can see we had to take the wire harness off the fire wall and move a bit of wire around.
The old sheet metal the PO used to cover the heater cutouts was OK but we will do something a bit stronger here.
You see I already hade the Level 2 upgrades in the Jeep with Herm's dual MC and AA chain clutch linkage.
That stuff will be for sale one day soon.
Here's a shot of the firewall doubler that came out of the YJ. The side against the firewall I grinded clean and put a coat of weld thru primer on it.
I may just take out the rollbar as I can only drop the dash back about 1.5" the way it is...
Looking at this photo and thinking again maybe I could work the dash to the other side of the rollcage and then strap it to the bar????
This thing is ready to go. I picked up the T18 from Warlock this summer in Colorado. With a Novak slave and clutch fork. Thanks to 73 CJ5 (Noah).
I replaced the output shaft and the adaptor from Novak to mate to my existing D18 TCase.
I'm still using 3.73 gears in axles with the stock TC I think the crawl ratio is 65 or 73:1
Could be better
That will be a nice setup. You will be 58:1. You will have no problem on the Rubicon with that setup. Steve is happy with his 57:1 ratio.
If you decide you need more..... the terra low 3.15 will put you at 74:1.....
Looks like its coming along nicely.
My YJ pedals work well and clear the steering column with just enough space. I ended up using a clutch master cylinder from a 80 CJ7 with the GM 4 cylinder and a 7 inch brake booster to clear the clutch master. I also had to cut, bend, and reweld the pedal arms to work with the early CJ5 floor angles.
Thanks for the reply. Did you just push the pedals all the way to the right almost against the column? Seem the brake would be a few inches to the left of the stock position. Basically just under the column instead of to the right of the column.
I thought of splitting the column with the pedals. Would need a little modification of the brake pedal.
My pedals work well. They are offset to the left so they clear the original steering column. Since you will also place the throttle pedal, you can put it where you like in relation to the clutch and brake. I did end up bolting mine to the dash as well. I think it makes the whole arrangement a little more secure. Aside from bending them to clear the angled floor, it's a pretty straight forward install.
One thing I recommend is to get into the Jeep with a pair of winter boots on and make sure you are leaving enough space between the brake and throttle pedals so they boots won't interfere.
Made some progress on the hanging pedals swap.
Starts with some CAD work.
Andrew is glad to have the jeep in-op. Got the dash mostly out of the way
Making it permanent.
We used weld thru primer on inside of both the firewall and the 16ga doubler.
We put the pedals in and out maybe 6 or 8 times so far.
Here is how we are going to bolt the pedals back to the dashboard area. Actually to the hanging down lip of the cowling just ahead of the dash.
Cut the assembly off even with the lip. (Should have cut straighter).
Weld on a plate that goes up under that we will bolt on behind the dash.
Tacking the plate to the pedal assembly. Welding upside down right over my chest.
A little more progress tonight. First, I’m trying to get the brake pedal as far right as I can. I would love to split the column with the pedals but I think I’ll be happy with the brake placed directly under the column. Here’s the stock pedals with a pretty good bend to the left on the brake.
Put the pedal shaft on the press and straighten it out in just a few minutes.
Now the brake pedal is longer than the clutch but that’s going to be easy to fix.
Next I modified the firewall doubler (again).
The brake booster mounts with one corner over the cowl/hood support. I didn’t want to slide another layer under the support and this modified part helps flatten the booster to the firewall.
We’re going to have to mock up the pedals a few more times to get the placement bends just right. The pedals now are to close to the toe-boards so some cutting, welding, bending is going to be necessary.
This project does take some time but nothing really hard so far.
If you put the pedal under the column. Will pedal or foot hit column when applying brakes?
I did think of that and I'm not sure of the answer yet. I'll toss in the column next time I get the pedals in to test. Maybe another good reason to split the column. Stay Tuned....
I don’t have any interference problems between the brake pedal, the column, and my size 9 boots. If you have Sasquatch feet, it might be a different story.
Kind of at a standstill with the pedals until I find a friend with a torch to get bends correct.
HF pipe bender.
This will work.
Little progress on the pedals. This Bend will get the brake on the right side of the column.
Today we pulled the T14.
added a little tab to rotate the TC shift pivot down
I had the T18 mostly ready for a few weeks. Now TC attached
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