Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Buildflycrash, Feb 28, 2018.
How'd it go getting that crusty fitting out?
Local machine shop did it easy. $35. Almost worth it.
Water pump replacement. What percentage of pump removals end up with broken bolts?
I got the top one out already. The lower right was broken off by PO. The lower left is a long bolt. Maybe 5”.
Half the time it seems like they break every time. The rest of the time they only break half the time.
If its a junk housing just whittle the aluminum hole off the bolt and get the housing out of the way. Then work on the remaining studs. The aluminum corrodes to the bolt but it may not be stuck in the block.
Yup, broke a couple replacing mine. Had to remove the grille and radiator to get at it to drill/dig the broken pieces out. Started a "might as well....as long as I have it apart..." chain reaction that hasn't ended yet....
A leaky gas tank resulted in alloy front axles, ball joints, and lock-right.
I'm afraid a new water pump becomes a Dauntless Rebuild.
If I can just get this one long bolt out I will be good. I've welded a nut to the remaining bolt stud. I'm taking it slow now, spraying PB Blaster on it and using light pressure with some hammer blows trying to get it to break free. I'll do this for another day before using more pressure. (bigger wrench & bigger hammer)
Don't be shy about putting some heat near the bottom of the stud where it goes into the head/block. But don't turn it while hot, heating the stud will take the heat treat out of it. Even after cool it will probably be softer than before.
If the bolt isn't too long you can sometimes drill completely through the bolt then inject PB Blaster into the backside of the stuck bolt. That will soak into it from both directions. Also, several heat-cool cycles will sometimes break up the corrosion lock. An old-timer insisted to me that one heat-cool cycle will not do it. Takes multiple. Welding the nut on often does the job so long as it's welded on close to the hole. If welding a nut on a long stud far from the threaded hole then not so much.
With rust converter the manifold came out pretty good.
New water pump was easy.
I’m getting deeper into this than I ever imagined. After getting the water pump off I struggled getting the timing chain cover off. Details here.... Is Anything Easy? Timing Chain Cover Removal?
After several hours the TC cover is off and the broken bolt is removed. Now you say replace the timing chain.
So off to NAPA I go. I’ll take some photos and let y’all know what troubles I run into.
Rainy Saturday so I took some time for the Jeep today. Put the Intake manifold back on with gaskets and a little RTV.
Dry fit the timing chain cover and water pump.
Pulled the oil pan and cleaned out sludge. Photo of the oil pickup screen.
Cleaned up the oil pan and it’s ready for paint. Also painted thermostat housing and other small parts.
The timing chain and gears should be here early next week and it looks like I should be able to do that in an evening after work.
About all I have left then is bleeding the brakes. I’m sure that will creep into more issues but
Timing chain was really easy.
Got gaskets ready to go on except I need new black RTV.
Broke my 5/16 tap the other day cleaning out threads on the front of engine block(came out easy with needle nose). This bottom hole is buggered up so the rest of assembly will go ahead tomorrow.
I got all my parts lined up and started bolting it back together.
I got this far and thought maybe I didn’t torque the bolt on the end of the camshaft before assembly.
I took it all apart to find I did torque it properly. Better safe than sorry I’m saying.
I reused an old 1/4” bolt here on the top of the water pump. Never again. I’m leaving it and hopefully it will not leak.
The front end is pretty much back together.
5 screws hold the cover on the oil pump. 4 came loose easily. Do I really need to pack this with Vasoline?
I would fix that broken water pump bolt while you can get to it.
If you do not take the oil pump apart and pack it with vasoline then you should plan on priming the oil system by driving the oil pump through the distributor hole. You could cut the handle off an old screw driver handle and chuck it up in a cordless drill and spin the oil pump until you have oil pressure. If you have the oil pressure gauge hooked up you could watch that or pull off the valve covers and look for the oil flow there. Do not start your motor with a dry oil pump. Also I agree with the others - might as well tackle that water pump bolt now.
Is this necessary after an oil change or oil pan removal?
No because there is oil left in the pump gears that don't drain out during oil change.
You guys with your “do it right” attitude are pissin’ me off.
Just kidding, I’ll fix it. I just checked and I do have a spare water pump gasket.
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