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Saginaw swap picture request

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by tobyw, Aug 16, 2005.

  1. Aug 16, 2005
    tobyw

    tobyw Member

    Richland, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2005
    Messages:
    77
    Please post or direct me to any/all pictures of a Saginaw conversion on an otherwise STOCK L-head flattie... I can't imagine how to route the steering shaft with the stock motor mount in there, and I shudder to think about how low the gearbox will have to hang to clear the stock round from x-member :shock: I know it's been done a million times, so I just want some pictures to clear things up before I start shopping for parts.

    On a related note, I was thinking of Herm's reverse setup. But with the stock radiator/shroud, along with the motor mount, I simply don't see any way for this to work either. Has anyone done this swap?
     
  2. Aug 16, 2005
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
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    Mar 30, 2004
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    1,745
  3. Aug 16, 2005
    tobyw

    tobyw Member

    Richland, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2005
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    77
    Hmmm, very helpful indeed. I hadn't seen those picture before... It would appear the easiest thing to do would be to replace the stock round x-member/radiator support with something a little smaller, or perhaps notch it somehow to allow the shaft to pass underneath it? Then it comes down to the motor mount... Thanks for the pictures!!
     
  4. Aug 17, 2005
    tobyw

    tobyw Member

    Richland, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2005
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    77
    Update w/ more questions...

    With the fenders removed, I was able to do a little more investigative work last night. I'm feeling a little better about the prospect, now...

    I took a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe and poked it through the stock motor mount "housing", and routed it under the front x-member. Much to my surprise, it's a relatively straight an level run from the bottom of the steering column out to the bottom side of the x-member! I think the gearbox can mount at a much more reasonable height than I was thinking. Whew!!

    At this point, the only real hangup will be the length I can get out of the original column, as I'm not sure what lies at the end where it mates to the Ross box. Can a U-joint be attached directly to the end, or does some length need to be trimmed first to access the shaft? My rollcage will not allow me to simply lower the column, so I'm sort of stuck there...
     
  5. Aug 17, 2005
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
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    Mar 30, 2004
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    1,745
    picture of steering shaft
     
  6. Aug 17, 2005
    tobyw

    tobyw Member

    Richland, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2005
    Messages:
    77
    Great picture, thanks!! So, it's looking like a guy would have to cut the worm gear off, and figure a way to attach a U-joint... But it also looks like it could possibly be sleeved and extended to add just the right amount of length to avoid interference with a motor mount. Hmmm... Wonder if I could graft a section of steering column off another vehicle, U-joint and all, to get my length as required? I just happen to have a dead XJ Cherokee laying in the pasture that may lend itself nicely to this project. Then I could actually use the XJ intermediate shaft as well, and then only need to find the right U-joint to mate it to the Sagi gearbox. Or, maybe I can use the XJ gearbox as well?! I think it's only a 3-hole mount, though, which I understand isn't the best option? :?
     
  7. Aug 17, 2005
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,521
    you should be able to clear the front crossmember as you have noticed
    you will probably have to make up/modify the intermediate shaft for proper length.
    at the end of your Ross shaft in the box is the worm gear...part of the shaft.
    CJ 72-72 steering components can make the job easier, but mods are still required for the shafts.....cutting and welding.
    The cutting and welding should only be done by qualified people.....someone you would trust your life to; if you think your skills are good enough, weld away.
    Most u-joints, including the 72-75 Jeeps, are splined on both ends; hence why they are used. Simply cutting of the worm gear of the shaft gives you a shaft...with no splines.
    Others here have adapted PS components from other years/models of Jeeps, so do your research before you get in too deep. Think it out in advance: measure twice, cut/weld once.
     
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