Saginaw Power Steering (pics) Please Add Yours!

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Mcruff, Aug 5, 2005.

  1. Nov 22, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Baja...............I think you just need to get your springs in..........load the vehicle as if all the weight is in it to establish ride height and see what you have........

    Going under normally increases the angle or angles coming from the column which may add the number of joints necessary to travel around the obstacles between there and the steering gear input shaft , it will also make it more challenging getting the Pittman Arm / drag link to your spindles flat at ride height to minimize any bump steer.............and Yes ground clearance on all those parts is a concern.........and everyone's install is a little different.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2016
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  2. Dec 22, 2016
    jeepstar

    jeepstar Member

    Sheboygan
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    to all the people with a ross box that did a manual steering swap...I would like to do a manual steering upgrade. the reason I don't want to do power steering, is limited hp, lack of mounting hardware on the fhead, etc.
    where can I get a new manual steering box from? year, make, model?

    my other question to anybody, down the road, after this conversion and enjoying it for a bit, I want to do an electric power steering upgrade. does a manual steering box work for an electric power steering upgrade? are they compatible I guess is what I'm asking about?
     
  3. Dec 22, 2016
    45es

    45es Sponsor Sponsor

    Naches, WA
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    You can look at RockAuto.com for something like a 1960 Chevrolet Bel Air with 283 v8. That model year had both manual and power steering option.
     
  4. Dec 22, 2016
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I thought everybody was using the CJ-5 manual Saginaw gear.

    More Information for LARES 1034

    The core is pretty high for these at $75, so you might want to look around for a used one. Any '72-up CJ-5 would be fine. I found 2-3 dozen nation-wide on car-part.com Should not be hard to find. Your cheapest source will be private party from someone who is upgrading to power.
     
  5. Dec 22, 2016
    jeepstar

    jeepstar Member

    Sheboygan
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    do you think this would be acceptable for an electric conversion down the road, or do you think I would need a complete different steering gear?
     
  6. Dec 22, 2016
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I have no idea how an electric conversion would work.
     
  7. Dec 22, 2016
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    If you're thinking about something like an electric assist from Saturn etc. then it won't make any difference. There was a pic on here a while back showing a CJ with the assist unit up under the dash.

    If you're thinking a conventional power steering system with an electric pump then you will of course need a power steering box.

    H.
     
  8. Dec 22, 2016
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    I wouldn't rule out hydraulic. If you're going through the massive work of converting to a Saginaw box, a bracket to mount a pump is only one more step. There's plenty of space to mount a pump on the F-head; it's just not as "bolt-on" as on a 225.
    Personally, I think the power loss is a non-issue.

    If you really want a manual box, I'd go the standard Saginaw route, then swap in the power box when/if you see fit. At least the option is there.

    I'm not too familiar with the electric steering conversions, but don't they just add extra turning power to your input shaft?
     
  9. Dec 22, 2016
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Yup, but it ends up feeling the same to the driver :)

    H.
     
  10. Dec 22, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    The only electric conversion I have seen which is a under the dash version mounted in the column I believe is for compact cars............Tire size and how much off road you will be doing will play a major part in the survival and effectiveness of the add on electric assist...........

    On your Saginaw manual steering gear 3-bolt conversion ...........I would install a 4 bolt mount just in case in the future you decided to add a power Saginaw.......yes, your motor is underpowered , but the gear only draws power when a turning signal is sent to the piston inside via the column........otherwise driving straight ahead it's pretty much a wash.
     
  11. Jan 31, 2017
    Twin2

    Twin2 wasn't me Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    steering up grade . manual box . S10 pick up . two hole right knuckle . 55 jeep 4 cylinder
    work in progress . maybe not as fancy as some installs
    went from this , which was all wrong
    CAM00369.jpg
    to work in progress
    steering knuckle.jpg
    gear box front . still have to box cross member
    steering front.jpg
    steering side.jpg
    linkage after 2 1/2 springs
    steering linkage - Copy.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2017
  12. Jan 31, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Ron , Looks good .........You may want to box that frame rail in behind that mount. In fact not a bad Idea to do both frame rails up front.
     
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  13. Feb 1, 2017
    dozerjim

    dozerjim Member

    western New York
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    Looks very similar to my box sourced from a mid 70s postal,still building so haven't had a chance to try it.
     
  14. Feb 1, 2017
    Jim Eyster

    Jim Eyster New Member

    Central Ohio
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    Hope this is a good place for this. I was checking out the Advanced Adaptor kits and they say this for both manual and power steering kits:
    • This kit should not be used with stock 4 cylinder engines.
    Anyone know a good reason for this?
     
  15. Feb 1, 2017
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    I'm going to guess it's mainly because of exhaust interference.
     
  16. Mar 7, 2017
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    I'm using a 78 Cherokee Saginaw box, what is everyone using for a joint at the input spline? My box has the 25 spline with a flat, so can I use a 30 spline u-joint? Just unsure on what to order.
     
  17. Mar 8, 2017
    Dawgy

    Dawgy Member

    Decatur,Alabama
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    Hi Alex
    I'm not sure but I don't think there was ever a 25 spline. Could have been but check out page 28 in this catalog on how the verify spline count.
    Spend some time reading this and it should answer some questions.

    http://borgeson.com/Images/100th_Catalog.pdf
     
  18. Mar 9, 2017
    Mr Plow

    Mr Plow Member

    Boston, Ma
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    I feel like I am pulling a thread on a sweater. So I have gone through much of this thread and some of the earlier links and pics are broken so sorry for the age old question I am about to ask. I wanted to take advantage of a two hole knuckle on my 66 f134 cj. Can I keep my original bell crank and just have a custom drag link length made up. Then a standard long tie rod from wheel to wheel? What is the simplest way to convert to a single tie rod configuration? I cant weld myself but want to eliminate death wobble. Totally happy with manual steering. Thanks guys!
     
  19. Mar 9, 2017
    Rich M.

    Rich M. Member

    Maryland
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    Yes. You can source / fab it yourself or Herm has a kit.
     
  20. Mar 9, 2017
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    You can, but you may still just be avoiding the real problem. Death wobble is caused by excessive slop in your front end; usually just a tiny bit here and there adds up to a lot. I'd go over every connecting/pivot point of your front end (shackles, spring bushings, tie rod ends, knuckle pivots, wheel bearings, bell crank, Ross box...), as well as frame flex (check for cracks at the crossmember under the grill and around the spring hangers). Have someone with a lot of patience sit in the driver's seat and rock the wheel back and forth 1/4-1/2 turn while you are out front checking every point for any flex. I'd be willing to bet you'll find a worn bell crank, possibly a few cracks, and floppy shackles.

    Also, it wouldn't hurt to get your tires rebalanced. It could be kickstarting the death wobble domino effect.

    Just changing over to a one piece tie rod and changing nothing else is like just putting one piece of a jigsaw puzzle down and calling it finished. It's the last component in a complex system where everything else needs to be in perfect working order for it to make a difference. I'd hate for you to spend the time and money to end with the same results.
     

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