1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Rough Idle

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Strider380, Aug 15, 2006.

  1. Aug 15, 2006
    Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    New England
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2006
    Messages:
    1,117
    So Just rewired the entire engine compartment. Started right up but idles very rough and stalls out eventually. I checked everything against the wiring diagram. It ran so nice before, and now it sounds like the air/fuel mixture is off or the fuel pump died. The only thing I can think of is I hooked something up wrong and I fried the alternator, or the voltage regulator isn't wired correctly. Any hints?
     
  2. Aug 15, 2006
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Oklahoma City, USA
    Joined:
    May 18, 2006
    Messages:
    2,622
    You could have a combination of incorrect alt wiring and low battery, or maybe your coil/dist is not wired correctly. Did you remove the plug wires for some reason?
     
  3. Aug 15, 2006
    Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    New England
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2006
    Messages:
    1,117
    I did not remove the plug wires. The coil and dist I know are wired correctly. I've tried so many combinations of wiring and every one yields the same thing...rough idle, dead. It sounds like the carb isn't getting enough gas. I left the hood off last night and it rained, but the distributor was perfectly dry as was the air filter. I'm thinking a bad connection somewhere? I smeared di electric grease over every connection, could I have used too much? Maybe water is actually in the carb? I am so mad
     
  4. Aug 15, 2006
    Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    New England
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2006
    Messages:
    1,117
    I just started her up again, rough idle, stall, a ton of smoke out of the carb this time. I mean a ton. Backpressure? I swear it sounds like its not a wiring issue. Sounds like is not getting gas or there is a bad connection in the coil to distributer - but I went through and cleaned everything. Any advice?
     
  5. Aug 16, 2006
    Chuck

    Chuck Sponsor

    Southshore Ma
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2004
    Messages:
    1,463
    An FSM will have a wiring schematic that should help if there is a wiring issue. Have you check the fuel pressure/ volume? If not I would start there if you believe it’s fuel related.

    If you don’t have a gauge the volume test can be done easy enough by disconnecting the fuel line and let the fuel flow into a bottle while cranking the engine. One pint in 30 sec is about right. Keep us posted.
     
  6. Aug 16, 2006
    Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    New England
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2006
    Messages:
    1,117
    AAHHHH I'm so aggrevated. I wired everything according to the fsm. The other day I got a smooth consistent blue spark out of the plugs. Now its not sparking consistently! I did squirt the connections on the top of the distributor cap with wd-40 cause i thought I saw dirt. I figured it would clean it up and dry up. There was a little left in the cap still but I didn't think this would be a problem. Now its not sparking consistently. Also, i thought there was water inthe carb cause I saw condensation. I opened it up to let it dry. it dried, but then I noticed the carb is leaking out of the intake gasket. Could air be getting in here and bogging the engine? What bad things would happen when you leave the hood off when it poured rain?
     
  7. Aug 16, 2006
    Chuck

    Chuck Sponsor

    Southshore Ma
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2004
    Messages:
    1,463
    Strider, it’s no fun working on your jeep if you’re aggravated so if you’re able to take a break do so and rethink the steps you already went through. As for the cap, it really needs to be thoroughly cleaned.

    I would concentrate on the electrical first.
     
  8. Aug 16, 2006
    spud

    spud Nope..it's not finished!

    Augusta Co. Virginia
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2003
    Messages:
    311
    While it's running, spray some carb cleaner around the carb base and the intake area. If the idle smooths, you've got a leak somwhere. Also, eliminate the fuel source by hooking a small jug of fuel to the fuel line feeding the carb. If it runs better, you may have contaminated fuel. I had the same symptoms on a scout 4 cyl. once. A gear oil bottle with fresh fuel in it confirmed the tank was full of bad fuel.
     
  9. Aug 16, 2006
    Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    New England
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2006
    Messages:
    1,117
    I changed the cap, condensor, made the connection on the points set prettier, polished up the rotor, and set the points. It started great and ran great, but then stalled. Started right back up, ran and stalled, etc. This time it runs perfectly until it bogs down. You can give it gas and get the rpm's high instead of it just dieing. Does this sound like points that arn't set perfectly, or carburetor? Runs for somewhere between 5 and 25 seconds.
     
  10. Aug 16, 2006
    cj-john

    cj-john Member

    Galveston, IN.
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2006
    Messages:
    242
    You might want to take the low speed screws out of the carb and blow some air through the holes. Make sure you run them in and count the turns so you know about where to put them back. You might have some dirt floating around in one of the air passages causing it to go lean or rich and die. Think about how small the end of the needle is and it doesn't take much to radically change your mixture. Just trying to give you something else to look at. Good luck.
     
  11. Aug 17, 2006
    Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    New England
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2006
    Messages:
    1,117
    yea, it sounds like carb to me. Maybe air is getting into the carb through the carb/air intake gasket? I just realized it leaks a little gas, not sure how long its been doing that
     
  12. Aug 17, 2006
    MA74CJ5

    MA74CJ5 Member

    Bolton, MA
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2004
    Messages:
    482
    It sounds to me that you have a carb issue. I believe (not 100%) that you have the Carter YF. Go to the store, buy a rebuild kit, and rebuild it. Make sure you take your time and follow the directions. If you are getting a blue spark then your wiring should be fine. What color is the smoke? Is it black? If so that is flooding, your float may be stuck open and flodding the motor. Good luck. If you need help with the carb or need documentation let me know I have some good diagrams I can send you. I am also in MA and I find that NAPA has a decent rebuild kit, but if there is not one around you go with whatever is closer.
     
  13. Aug 17, 2006
    Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    New England
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2006
    Messages:
    1,117
    I purchased a rebuild kit last night. I will finish the wiring today, gauges and whats left of the directional. I have never rebuilt a carb before but have had a carb rebuild kit sitting next to the carb for my 225 in my '57 for a few months. Seems like the gasket against the air intake dosn't ever like me. Well, I imagine the carb will be a little aggrevating to rebuild the first time and super super easy the second time, just like everything else. I guess the '74 gets the first one. I have the huge can of carb cleaner. About how long would you say it usually takes to rebuild a carb? About 1 day after its done soaking?
     
  14. Aug 17, 2006
    MA74CJ5

    MA74CJ5 Member

    Bolton, MA
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2004
    Messages:
    482
    Depending on the carb I usually take 2 evenings. I disassemble the carb and blast the hell out of it with carb cleaner. That little red straw that comes with the carb cleaner is your best tool. MAKE SURE that you stick that little straw into all the little passges that are drilled in the carb body. If you stick the straw in one end and pull the trigger, carb cleaner should shoot out the other end. Careful cause sometimes the hole in the side exits on top and right into your face. Point is, if carb cleaner does not exit that passage on the other end it is blocked and needs to be cleaned out. I have never soaked carb parts overnight, mostly because I have never found carb cleaner in liquid form. I guess it can't hurt just keep it to like 12 hours cuz that stuff is nasty and may weaken the metal after too much time.

    The second night I reassemble and make the preliminary adjustments. Don't skip those! They are very important, check them all with that little paper square that comes with the kit. Then install it on the rig and tune her up. Good luck.

    P.S. Don't overtighten anything on the carb. It is a soft metal and will crack and break easily (don't ask how I know).
     
New Posts