Retorquing head bolts

Hi all,

You may recall I did a semi-rebuild of my F-head recently, including HG, new rings, head milling etc... Someone on here said to be sure to re-torque the head bolts after about 100 miles.

I am getting close to that - really probably not..... I drive like a mile or two at a time - but I did some light plowing, the odometer is broken etc so let's just agree it is getting there..

So i am interested in this retorque the head bolts idea.

Do I loosen then retighten them all? Just set the torque wrench and give each one a good crank to make sure they are still tight?

Also, one is under the carb and at least one is under the intakes...do I gotta pull all that crap off again? Or just test a few of the externals or what? Any opinions on this topic are welcome...

It is all so happy and running great right now, I do not want to mess with valve adjusts and carb adjusts etc if it is not really needed..

 

The objective of retorquing is to make sure the setting is still right after the engine has been through a few heat-cool cycles.

Set the torque wrench to the final setting and retighten the bolts according to the tightening order in the shop manual. You may find that they move a little, or not at all. But go in order and check that the bolts are still tight.

IMO it would be pointless to retorque unless you can test all the bolts... you should probably use new gaskets on the carb base and intake, after you take them off. Then check the intake bolts again after some time.

 

The last time I re-torqued an F head I took the valve cover off and debated whether I wanted to remove the valving claptrap.

So, I looked around the shop and found a set of offset sockets. Well, they really weren't sockets, but they were short open end wrenches with a hole to put a socket extension into. So I dialed up the torque wrench and tightened them -- and they turned just a little. I have two sets of those offset wrenches -- one is a crowsfoot and one is a simple open end --- I don't remember which type of wrench I used.

I used a standard socket on the other bolts...

Now, I think that there is some sort of formula that you could put into excel and calculate the amount of torque that would be "spent" in using the offset wrenches, but since I dialed in on the upper end of the torque range I wasn't too concerned about those three on which I had to use the special wrenches.

I think you can get a set of those wrenches at Harbor Freight for around 20 dollars.

By the way - as a sorta unrelated tip... I wanted to retorque the pressure plate retaining bolts on my 9.5 inch clutch assembly but I didn't want to pull the engine/trans.

So I bought a distributor wrench -- the kind with 7/16 and 1/2 inch heads. I removed the starter and turned the engine 'till I could see the back side of one of the bolts. That distributor wrench fit behind the flywheel and right on to the bolt. I used a torque wrench to tighten them down. Naturally, tightening a bolt from the "wrong" side is turning it counter clockwise.

That saved pulling the engine....

kamel

 

Kamel, you did however pull the carb, yes?

 

Yes, I pulled the carb, but that is easy to do.

 

I see you are from Bucks County.. I get up to Delaware County about 5 times a year -- over in Newtown Square. The best thing about that area is eating Italian foods and cheesesteaks. They are all over the place up there and are far better than the chain restaurants we have 'round here.

And I also stock up on Taylor Pork Roll --- I always increase my inventory when I'm up there -- I think I've got 8 or 9 boxes in the freezer right now.

kamel

 

Taylor Pork Roll is something I have never understood. Like Scrapple. UGH... not comparing the two just sayin I don't get either phenom... Cheesesteaks for sure, Whether it is Geno's Pat's or Jim's on South (my personal fave) we got em...soft pretzels, Goldenberg's peanut Chews, tastykakes, Herr's chips & Pretzels, oh yeah it is a nice area to be in!!!

 

I thought modern gaskets are made so as to not require re-torqueing - or am I wrong?

 

When an adapter is offset from the square drive of a torque wrench, the torque wrench setting should be calculated to account for the offset including the angle of the offset..............This is because the offset adds or subtracts from the length of the torque wrench to the fastener which will effect the ability to get the correct torque at the fixture.

And yes most modern gaskets from leading gasket makers like "Fel-Pro" do not require re-torquing.........but all aspects of the torque application system must be constant like a flat clean surface on both the head & block......clean threads and undamaged bolts or studs & nuts and last but not least the proper lubricant at the thread...................Not sure though if any of these High Tech gaskets are made for all the various combinations that one may find in an old Jeep!

 

Got mine from Walck's and did all of the above. and drive 100 miles or less year....

 

I thought it was specified in the manual that a specific wrench is to be used? An old German brand called Geutentite?