Removing steering shaft from column etc.

I've removed the steering column from the dash and engine compartment universal and will be trying to remove the wheel from the shaft. I think it will be easier to beat the crap out of the wheel without the column. A couple of questions:

What's holding the horn contact that's in the center of the shaft. I've given a fair tug but it doesn't want to come off. How to remove this?

What's retaining the shaft in the column? The shaft moves some but is retained by something at the top end. Another case where I don't want to rip something apart that isn't supposed to be ripped.

I won't even ask about removing the wheel based on searching the forum. All I know is it ain't going to be pretty.

 

Mine steering shaft came right out of the outer shell without a problem. Cant remember on the horn, once you pull the rubber contact pad with the brass plate you should be able to see what's holding it. As far as pulling the steering wheel, I used a bearing puller/seperator from HF. It worked really well, just try and pad it where it pulls against the bottom of the steering wheel.

 

Mine was soldered to the brass ring on the inner shaft.

Pull the white plastic contact with two screws below the turn signal. Thats the thing thats hanging it up.

There is also a bearing and retainer cup on the top of the shaft you will see when the wheel is off

 

Thanks, I saw that contact and was thinking that the wire must be attached there but wasn't sure. I also checked out the 74 parts manual for the steering column and (very useful) and see the upper bearing that must be preventing the shaft from coming out. I guess the bearings are accessible once the wheel is off.

 

Progress report: I got the shaft out of the column tube. I just gave it good tap and out it came. The upper bearings are retained by a cup that is just pressed into the tube. I unsoldered the horn wire and removed it from the shaft so I could commence to beating on the shaft to get the wheel off. That wheel is not going to come loose without major effort. I started to damage the threads on the shaft and I'm afraid I'll damage the shaft with any more abuse. I think my next move will be to cut the wheel off and cut the splined collar which will then hopefully release it's death hold on the shaft.

I took some pictures of the remains of the lower bearing and the horn contact on the shaft if anyone is interested.

Lower Bearing



Horn Contact

 

Ugly steering wheel removal complete

Well, as I said earlier, it wasn't pretty. I tried every thing. Finally I cut into the splined hub of the steering wheel. That thing was on there. I think the 1972 Mr. Muscle of Toledo put steering wheels on.

Once I cut the wheel away I tried heating the "hub" and beating it but no go. Finally had to enlist Dr. Dremel and his fine cut off wheel. I used the Dremel so I could have better control, I didn't want to mess up the shaft. The Dremel worked great, sliced right through the hub. Once I got 99% of the way through I gave it a tap and off it came. If you look at the picture of the debris on the bench you can see how far down the hub was forced beyond the splined section. Jeep sure didn't want the steering wheel to come off.....ever.

 

What now? Are you going to use a replica replacement steering wheel? Or a different style aftermarket one? I destroyed mine getting it off too, but don't really want a direct replacement since I upgraded to power steering. Thinking about a smaller Grant wheel, but I want to keep the horn button functional, so that will take some thinking.

 

I'm going to get a repo wheel. I have manual steering and will need the leverage. I wish I could have repaired the wheel since it was in pretty good condition except for the cracks at the hub which they all seem to have. I think it's from grabbing the wheel and pulling yourself in to seat, too much flex after 40 years.

Anyone know of a good wheel / source for an original type wheel other than the usual Omix repo?

 

I got the Omix one because it seemed to be the only game in town.

It , too, goes on super tight and won't come back off.

It is made with a glossy finish and no finger grooves, both of which makes it more difficult to hang on to.

 

I have two originals...one is probably good enough to use, but has some cracks at the usual spots. I'll shoot some pics over to you later if you want to see.

 

You could try DeBella - Willys Civilian Jeep CJ3B CJ5 - Steering - Peter DeBella Jeep Parts www.debellajeepparts.com

The part number is 927417 - I find both Omix and Crown offers them. The Crown picture has a glossy finish and finger grooves. You could call the Crown distribution warehouse in Canton and ask about their repop wheel Crown Automotive Sales - Canton, Massachusetts - 汽车零件店 | Facebook They can't sell out of state (due to agreement with their retailers) but they can give you a lead where to get the part.

Kinda think the cracks are typical of thick plastic from the era that has aged 50 years. Plastic changes chemically with age, releasing volatile components to the air over time. Volume shrinks, plastic cracks. This is typical of all old steering wheels, regardless of the make. Priobably does not help that Jeep steering wheels often get a lot of sun. UV breaks polymer chains.