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Removing rusted distributor with CRC Freeze-Off

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by jbjeeps, Mar 10, 2015.

  1. Mar 10, 2015
    jbjeeps

    jbjeeps Member 2022 Sponsor

    The Idaho side...
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2010
    Messages:
    528
    I'm sure some of you already know about this product. Those who don't may want to get some. It is amazing stuff.

    I've been soaking a stuck distributor in an L-head with PB Blaster and atf/acetone for almost two weeks but haven't been able to get it to budge. I read about this stuff the other night so I got some at NAPA yesterday, $6 for a can.

    I followed the instructions on the can: spray for 20 seconds, tap part lightly, wait 2 minutes, repeat. I did that 3 times. After the 3rd time I was able to turn the distributor by hand. A few twists and it was out. Less than 10 minutes total time and I still have over half the can left.

    According to the product info, it works by freezing the part which contracts the metal and allows the penetrant to seep through. All I can say is wow! I was beginning to think I was going to have to wreck the distributor to get it out.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2015
  2. Mar 10, 2015
    jbjeeps

    jbjeeps Member 2022 Sponsor

    The Idaho side...
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2010
    Messages:
    528
    Please note: I posted about the results I got on another old Jeep website too. Someone there mentioned that, since this product works by freezing, it could crack the engine block. That would not be good.

    Before I used it I read several reports of people using it to free up stuck distributors and no one mentioned cracked blocks, so I'm hoping that doesn't happen. But I can see it might be possible.

    When I used it I did not direct the spray at the engine block. I used the small tube that comes with the can to aim the spray at the distributor shaft between the base and the clamp, but the overspray would hit the block.
     
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