Receiver hitch?

Has anyone ever intergrated a receiver hitch into the rear crossmember where the stock pintle hook location is??

I am thinking one could cut a hole in the plate where the pintle usually mounts. Then make a plate and weld that to the receiver, that way it could be bolted in place (using all six holes) and removed whenever needed. The back could be made long enough to tie into the crossmember over the rear axle, assuming no rear mounted gas tank.

I already have a pintle hook with built in trailer ball, but I have a warn receiver mount winch that would be nice to be able to use on the rear of the -5 (in addition to my other trucks).

 

I've seen receivers added to the stock draw bar, in the same place where the original triangular ball plate mounts.

 

I don't run the draw bar anymore, never liked the way it hung down. Mine had a receiver welded to it when I got it, just like you metion. I torched it off, got the triangular plate, so it was back to stock. Then sold it and went to the pintle hook I have now.

 

Greg I've done it two times two different ways. First time I used 3 inch angle for my rear crossmember and just burned a hole in the center and welded a reciever into that.
The second time I just used a piece of 6 inch angle that I had , trimed it to 5 X 3 and welded a reciever to it. Drilled holes to match where the pintle goes and a couple on the lower angle for safety chains. Sorry I didn't take pics but it woks well. My friend that bought my M38A1 pulls his LARGE boat out of the water with it with no problem.

 

Something like this, not designed to tow a lot but enough to mount a tag along rack, bike rack , a tire rack, or a small trailer. I am also having a custom gas tank built to fit inside the framing that will hold 9 to 10 gals.
Joe

 

I am in the process of finishing my rear bumper. I hope to be able to get a picture of it tonight. I modified my Draw Bar for the mounts for it. I removed the angle iron cross bar and cut the original mounts off it. The 2 braces that go up to the frame cross member I shortened them a little and re bent them to be 1/4" from the bottom of the cross frame on the rear below the lights. I made a L-Bracket and bolted it into the Pintal hitch holes to support the top center of the bumper. I used the steel from the draw bar to make 4 more brackets to mount on the ends of the frame using the original holes in it. So the bumper is now bolted to the frame in 7 places and I will be using a 5" wide X 5' long channel accross the back. Under this channel I will weld a semi flush reciever box to pull with. The channel will be 1/4" steel and the bolts holding the channel on will be 7/16" grade #5 with all the brackets inside the channel hidden. Will be tight to bolt it on but then you will only be able to see the channel and bolt heads on the top and bottom. I will put a licence bracket on the channel and move my lights up on the body to be later mounted into diamond plate alum corners on the bed box. Mark

 

Joe, that is close to what I had in mind. I am thinking weld the receiver to a plate that is designed to bolt to the six pintle mounts though. I am also thinking mounting it higher (between the top and middle set of holes), and running the back end all the way to the crossmember. My primary purpose will be to mount a warn 6000 winch in a cradle and/or pull my to Jeep trailers (m100/M416).

I have also thought about the idea of filling that space with a gas tank. What are you making it out of/who is making it??

 

The receiver socket tube fit great between the bumper and I have good access to the hitch pin, so that's where I welded it, the end is kind of mushroomed and I made the fit tight. I guess I could of flush mounted it so a pintle could be used. Not sure raising it up would make it stronger since it goes through the top of the bumper, also the back braces are kind of thin. I guess throw enough steel at it and you would have a great hitch. My gas tank is being made by a welder friend out of aluminum, he builds generator set auxiliary tanks as well as stationery machinery auxiliary tanks. Made a mock up out of cardboard and he went to town building it, I'll post a pic soon. Not DOT approved but no less safe than two jerry cans strapped to the back bumper as well as the tank below my butt!
Joe

 

I am not trying to flush mount mine, but actually have it sticking out for enough that the hitch pin is on the outside. My thoughts are weld it to a plate that is made to bolt up to the rear bumper/crossmember using the existing 6 holes. My pintle is currently bolted to the top four holes, so I figure if I make the receiver there it is at least as strong as my current setup. I would still cut a hole in the existing metal so the rear of the hitch could pass thru and then possibly tie into the crossmember over the axle. If done right it could all be unbolted and removed, for paint or whatever. Guess I need to draw a picture!

I'd be interested in seeing some pics of your tank when it is done!

 

I like the tank as well. I was going to custom build one as well, but planned to move the frame braces to a more square design that crossed under the tank. I like your idea a lot better just making the tank fit inside is very cool.

What is a boat fill fitting? and do you plan to have the fuel cap sit flush with the floor line or will it stick out?

Also are you going to add any type of fuel sender or fuel guage.

 

A boat fill fitting has a flange with 3 screws and a screw cap that has a o-ring seal and screws in flush (and needs a spanner key to open), it is just under 1/4 tall when installed, I plan on bedding it it with black RTV. It is chrome and have a flush look, I think it will be cool. The opening will be just under the back seat so I will have to tumble it forward to fill. My plan is to set the tank up with a sender just like the under the seat tank.The vent and suction will be set up just like a boats fuel tank. Being a marine mech I have a good supply fittings and such.
Joe

 

That's pretty cool. Need pics as it progresses!!