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Rebuilding Warn M2 Hubs

Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by mickeykelley, Jun 10, 2018.

  1. Jun 10, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

    Republic of Texas
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    I'm starting the first hub. The knob would not turn to start. As I took pieces apart they all seem fine and spun, including the small rollers. In fact that spun real easy. That grease looked like a petroleum jelly color and looked good. I gave not taken all out yet but plan to. At one point during tear down I was able to get the know to move to the other position but now it won't move again. It's soaking over night and I'll see in the morning. But the 12 larger rollers all have vertical scores in them, which doesn't make sense to me as I assume they are supposed to spin. See pic below. What do you guys think?
    image.jpg image.jpg
     
  2. Jun 10, 2018
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs. Sponsor

    Happy Valley, OR
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    They really aren't meant to rotate like a bearing although they can. They are meant to keep things in alignment and transfer torque.
     
  3. Jun 11, 2018
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

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    Those rollers act as pins to equally transfer the torque though the hub. They are not designed to rotate, but the inner hub slides on them, so any burrs could make engagement/disengagement more difficult. You could try carefully filing the burrs, or replace the rollers. I've never seen that happen and always assumed these rollers were hardened.
    -Donny
     
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  4. Jun 11, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

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    After soaking the outer portion with the knob, it still didn't turn so I put bolts thru the holes and set it on the vice and was able to move it to the other end and again won't move. Between the two extreme ends, it moves easily, but when it clicks into the end position, it's a bear to get it out. The screw is actually staked twice on each end of the slat headed screw. It does NOT have the Allen bolt but flat bladed screw. Can anyone tell me what the recess at the 9 o'clock position in the outer area and the part at the 5 o'clock in the inner area that is also double staked? See pic below.
    I am able to get it back and forth some by using a flat blade to help move it apart from the end points and am getting lots of yuk out including pieces of what appears to be that beveled O ring. I'm assuming that flat head bolt comes out counter clockwise once I remove the staking.
    image.jpg
     
  5. Jun 12, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

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    Got the screw un-staked and pulled apart. I had read several times about the "51" needle bearings inside and then escaping, etc., so I was debating messing with that part. However, to my surprise the bearing on this is a complete pressed in type. So I just flushed them and will pack with grease and get it all together. I did take the time to work on the exterior with some sandpaper to try to remove some piler marks from who ever in the it's past.
    image.jpg
     
  6. Jun 12, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

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    So here is the initial full of grease
    image.jpg

    And after initial exterior degreasing
    image.jpg

    And all taken apart, cleaned and ready to paint stripes and wording then put back together.
    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2018
  7. Jun 12, 2018
    jeep2003

    jeep2003 Active Member

    Vestal NY
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    Nice the only thing I recommend not removing is the O ring on the brass hub because it will stretch and forever be a problem. If you do need a new one you can use a Danco 35720B
     
  8. Jun 13, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

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    I I tentionall didn't take it off, but it's got some gouges so it may not last. I was under the impression they were not available.
     
  9. Aug 18, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

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    Back to this job. Looking for installation instructions and have not hit on the magic Google search. Anyone have any links or videos? I'm thinking it's just remove the snap ring, slide on the first half (ringed body), put the snap ring back on and then put the knob portion on. But would like to see instructions just to verify.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2018
  10. Aug 21, 2018
    maurywhurt

    maurywhurt Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Western North...
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    This came from a Dodge service manual, but the hubs look to be similar to the M2's / WL-2's:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2018
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  11. Aug 21, 2018
    tripilio

    tripilio Proud American!

    Miami
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    I will eventually have to do the same on all of mine but I'm still starting the body work phase. One thing at the time! But I enjoy more the mechanics than the body shop side of the restoration. Good thread! Any sources for the parts, like needles, seals, etc? Thanks!
     
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  12. Aug 21, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

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  13. Aug 21, 2018
    tripilio

    tripilio Proud American!

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    Thanks!
     
  14. Aug 23, 2018
    RVSwisher

    RVSwisher Member

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    How did you polish the body of the hubs? I have two sets I want to rebuild, but not sure what steps to take to clean the exterior and make them look close to new.

    I will be using the rebuild kits from TorqueKing that was noted above.

    Thanks

    RVS
     
  15. Aug 23, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

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    The first set I have was pretty banged up, which is why I started with them. After cleaning, basically I used a combination of dremmel, sand paper and in a couple bad places my grinder. Like all things of this nature, I started with the roughest, lowest grit and eventually work to higher grit. Obviously, some were just too deep to total get out plus I was not wanting to get to a mirror finish. Just work it until you get to level you are happy with, given the time and effort. I don't think you can ever get then back to NOS appearance.

    When all out back together, I'll post some final pics.
     
  16. Aug 23, 2018
    RVSwisher

    RVSwisher Member

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    Thanks,

    What you described was my plan. I agree on not being able to get back to NOS, just want to make them look nice. My jeep is a 53 CJ3B, it not even close to perfect.

    Thanks for the information.
     
  17. Aug 24, 2018
    RVSwisher

    RVSwisher Member

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    Mickey,

    Are you planning to the leave the hubs “raw” or are you planning to coat with some type of clear coat?

    Thanks

    RVS
     
  18. Aug 24, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

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    This set, raw.
     
  19. Aug 26, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

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    Back to finishing this project up. When I got these they were locked up, no turning the dial at all. The O-rings for the dial seem to fit fine. In studying how these actually work, I'm guessing the teeth I'm makes with the green arrows just come together as you turn the lead from Free to Locked and them engaging each other is what is actually locking the axel. By design, it looks like there is slop on purpose, as apposed to being a fine fitting more precise arrangement. Probably to allow them to slip into each other. Do I have that understanding right?

    Final question is how much grease to put in this center area where they mesh?

    image.jpg
     
  20. Aug 31, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

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    Got the first one finished and installed and it seem to work. Takes a little more effort to turn the knob than I expected, but seems to be getting easier so it may just need some breaking in.

    But on the second one the spring loaded stop ball popped out when I took it apart, but I DID have both the spring and ball. I put all parts in a little plastic container as I cleaned things and it never left my bench. However, now that I'm getting ready to put together, everything is there EXCEPT that spring. I looked all over the bench and nothing. Anyone have any ideas on where to get another spring?
     

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