Rebuilding An Old High School Friend!

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Fly Navy, Feb 11, 2015.

  1. Oct 10, 2016
    mrlentle

    mrlentle New Member

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    Fly - are you still progressing with this? I plan to use an Aussie version of the 3800 with an SM465/D18 combo in my little M38. I'm still gathering parts at this stage and enjoying your build along the way.

    Willys M38 Build
     
  2. Oct 10, 2016
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Midwest
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    I am just getting ready to jump back on it. We moved last month and I am still in the process of getting my new shop/garage set up and ready for business. I'm hoping by next weekend I'll be in a position to start cracking again. I was able to bend up and tack a full cage together before the move and am getting really close to blowing it apart in prep for final assembly. My goal is to maybe take it to Moab next spring but we'll see.
     
  3. Jan 1, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

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    It's been quite awhile since I've posted an update. Unfortunately between moving in August, knocking out the final inspection on the garage/shop in September, trying to get unpacked, trying to sort & organize the shop, the holidays, hunting season and the one thousand and one little "honey-do" projects that come with moving into a new house... my poor jeep has made absolutely no progress since the move. But hopefully that is all about to change because I can finally SEE IT again!:D

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    I should have taken a picture of the mountain of boxes and parts covering it. Of course when we moved I just started dumping stuff in boxes so I had to go through it all just to figure out what I had and didn't have and where I stood.
     
  4. Jan 1, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Midwest
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    A couple of things to catch everyone up on... things I chipped away at a little bit at a time before the move but never had the opportunity (or was just to lazy) to get posted before now...

    I got about 95% of the wiring sorted out. Marrying the chassis harness with the engines ECU where appropriate. I will finish this fully during the final assembly but got it far enough that it would actually start and run! A big moment to be sure but a slow tedious process trying to make sense of this spaghetti maker's nightmare.

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    I actually took the time to make a wiring diagram which slowed my process but it helped me keep things straight only working on it an hour here and there. Another thing that was invaluable was a factory electrical manual for the buick. I found it online for only $15 (not bad for a $200 shop manual) and it was truly enlightening when it came to the OBDI computer and the specifics of it's inputs and outputs.

    I also tacked together a full cage as you may have noticed. I started by building some tie-ins in the dash in order to provide as much leg room as possible.

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    Then I installed the soft top hardware so I knew where my boundaries were and started bending and notching.

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    One issue I ran into when installing the hardware for my SuperTop was this mounting hole that lined up perfectly with the old bow tubes. I talked briefly to Bestop's Techreps about it to try and make sure I had everything lined up correctly but it was clear he had never seen a vintage CJ of any kind and was unable to offer any help. Ultimately I just welded the tube shut but I found it odd the instructions didn't mention this possibility given the number of old CJ's out there.

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    So that is where things stand at this point. I've been trying to make every Wednesday, "Willy Wednesday," so I make sure I focus on it at least once a week amid all the other distractions but up till now those days have been spent trying to uncover and sort through my mess of parts and boxes. With any luck now that I can actually see it I will start making some real progress!
     
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  5. Jan 4, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Midwest
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    Looking for the groups thoughts on a radiator for my jeep. In an effort to save some money I am trying to decide if my original F-head radiator will work or if I need a new one. I found this formula in an old Hot Rod magazine several years ago:

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    Following the formula above, assuming a vertical flow core; high outside temperatures; medium trailer towing; no fan shroud; standard transmission; the V6; a "large" engine compartment and a large engine in a light vehicle... I come up with 485 (2.1x231) cubic inches of core required. Whether I'm being overly optimistic or pessimistic in my assumptions can certainly be argued. Interestingly the stock F-head radiator has 408 (16.5x16.5x1.5) cubic inches of core so I'm in the ballpark... particularly if I factor in a fan shroud. I've never been able to confirm this but from looking at them I think the Dauntless Jeeps used the same radiator core as the F-head, the only difference being the location of the outlet.

    Another factor to consider also is the overall thickness of the F-head radiator... 3.5"... and the fact I would really like to avoid running a pusher fan if possible. Currently, pushing the radiator as far forward without modifying the front crossmember, I have about 2" of clearance between the factory radiator and the front of the engine so a little tight to fit an electric fan. Most aftermarket radiators I've seen online (whether aluminum or factory style falcon/mustang) are only 2" thick. Or at least that is what they are listing in the specifications. So whether my old radiator will work or not may be irrelevant if I want to try and increase the amount of room I have for a fan.

    Thoughts?
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2017
  6. Jan 14, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Midwest
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    First bit of progress this year! Reworked my OD lever over the last couple of days, which included building an entirely new mounting bracket, shortening the linkage and rejiggering the transmission cover. Much better configuration! Pictures to follow, after I find the battery charger for the camera:)
     
  7. Sep 8, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Midwest
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    Time for a LONG overdue update... I've been chipping away at it slowly but obviously haven't been making the time to upload pictures.

    After reworking the overdrive lever and shift linkage, it took an inordinate amount of time to finish the transmission/firewall covers. I just couldn't quite get it into the shape I needed. Ultimately I borrowed my brothers shrinker/stretcher and that made all the difference.

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    So transmission covers are all done except for painting. Gas pedal is located and I fine tuned the gear lever bends with the torch. Reverse is still quite a reach. Not really a problem for me and my long arms but others might have issues so I may still have to play with that a little. I should also probably hook up the throttle pedal to make sure it is 100% but I need a longer throttle cable and will have to save up to get that ordered.

    I got my center console built. Nothing too fancy, just an ammo can but I dropped the floor in it so it would sit exactly where I wanted it.

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    I'll probably mount a CB to the front of the console which may require me to tweak the leavers for the PTO... Oh the joys of mock-up. Just when I think I'm almost done I realize there are 3 more things I should probably test fit.
     
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  8. Sep 8, 2017
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict Sponsor

    Kings Beach, Ca....
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    Lookin good. I had several attempts at bending the shifter for my T18 before I got it where I liked it. Nice work on the tranny cover.
     
  9. Sep 10, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Midwest
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    Thanks! I tweaked the PTO shift levers but only after 2 hours of searching for the pin that the levers pivot on. Ultimately I just made a new one from a 5/16 bolt but what should have been a five minute job turned into several hours because I didn't keep track of all my parts. I guess that is what happens when you move in the middle of a project.

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    I also got the fuel neck opening adjusted. Either the hole was off center or the neck is... either way the grommet didn't cover the gap.

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    After a little filling, the grommet fits nicely.

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  10. Sep 14, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

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    Fuel system mock-up complete(y)

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    I'm using Holley's in-tank retrofit fuel pump (part #12-130) to feed the Buick EFI. Not perhaps the cheapest solution but it comes with their hydramat pickup so it should feed fuel at just about any angle, as long as there is at least a corner of the hydramat touching fuel. Then I'll just use a simple transfer pump from the passenger side to the main tank so no more jerry cans for me!
     
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  11. Sep 21, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

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    Knocked out some little things...

    First I saved my self $30~$40 (plus shipping) by making my own body drain covers.(y)

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    My originals were pretty sad, one of which had almost completely disintegrated but there was enough left of the other one to use as a template. So I pounded it flat and traced it out onto some 16ga.

    I also finally got my wheel tub notch 100% welded up and ready for some seam sealer.

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    And built some recovery/bumper mounts out of some 3/4 inch plate.

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    I will probably go ahead and knock out the bumper next and give myself a chance to finalize my list of things I still need to mock up before I pull the tub off. My overall goal is "ta-not-ta" drill any holes in the body once it is all painted... or, realizing I will inevitably forget something, to drill as few holes as possible. I'm close. Still need a throttle cable so I can ensure that is all going to work. And I should probably figure out how I'm going to route my CB antenna cable... which means I should probably buy one of those too. But I think I have everything else accounted for... seat belts have been mocked up, seat mounts, tail lights, fuel lines, antenna mount, soft top (except for the doors)... I'll get my brother to put a second set of eyes on it on Sunday to make sure I'm not missing anything. He and I are knee deep into a Studebaker/Yukon project for him.:D

    But once the tub is off I can rebuild my axles, box the frame and start putting things together permanently!!
     
  12. Sep 21, 2017
    GeoffreyL

    GeoffreyL Active Member

    moorestown, nj
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    I may have missed it in the thread, but where did you find the passenger fuel tank and does it use the same body insert for the fuel neck as a drivers side? I've been toying with adding dual tanks on my cj5 but want to keep it all "period correct".
     
  13. Sep 21, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

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    I don't think I mentioned it previously, but plastic passenger tanks are available several places online. The part number is #0041-RH. I got mine from Midwestjeepwillys.com but I have also seen them available from JC Whitney, Morris 4x4, StylinTrucks, Autoparts Warehouse, etc... After a quick search it looks like MidwestJeepWillys and Amazon both have them for $180. And yes I used the same body insert as on the drivers side.

    I personally never found the under-seat tool box very useful so when I saw that these passenger side tanks were available I thought it would be perfect and the .50cal ammo can console I made more than makes up for the storage I lost.
     
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  14. Sep 21, 2017
    GeoffreyL

    GeoffreyL Active Member

    moorestown, nj
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    I wonder if anyone makes a steel version.
     
  15. Sep 21, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

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    I have only seen them in plastic. At this stage though, with this crappy stuff they call gas, I actually prefer the plastic so I don't have to worry about rust and all the damage ethanol is gong to do to it. My drivers tank is a new metal one and I am actually thinking about putting some of that restore/lining stuff in it to try and protect it.
     
  16. Sep 21, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Sponsor Sponsor

    Sacramento Ca.
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    A bit off topic but thought you might know, how do aluminum tanks hold up? Do they need any treatment? I am planning a custom aluminum tank build for my 67 now.
     
  17. Sep 22, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Midwest
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    I don't have much experience with aluminum fuel tanks but I would expect they would hold up better than steel. I know constant water contact will corrode aluminum but it is a much slower process than with steel.
     
  18. Oct 9, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Midwest
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    Figured I'd knock out the front bumper while I was waiting on parts.

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    Nothing fancy, just some 2x6 rectangular tubing and the old fairlead I cut out of the original bumper. I also finally got the cage fully welded so I can take that off now, clean it up and paint it!

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  19. Oct 9, 2017
    4wealn

    4wealn Member

    Ontario, Canada
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    I love that roll cage. You did a great job.
     
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  20. Oct 10, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Midwest
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    Thanks! It is my first:) Overall I'm pleased with it. If I had it to do over again, I would have just bent the bottom of the front hoops into to dash and welded them to my mounting plate instead of building those dash brackets. It would have looked much cleaner but I didn't really think about it and at the time I was trying to keep my compound bends to a minimum as I was learning all the ins and outs of my bender.
     

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