Radiator Cap Seepage

My first post

I had a 64 CJ5 with 3 on the column back in Alaska in the ‘80’s which I had to sell prior to returning to to the Lower 48. I have missed it for years and have now returned to ownership with a 57 CJ5 3 on the floor.

I have worked through a careful checklist and now have a 53 item list of things to fix. The first three of Importance are the radiator, seats (there are none), the clutch, and Shift/transmission

Bottomline question Of the moment is should a newly installed Radiator, Thermostat, Hoses, and Radiator Cap be seeping through the cap overflow?

In my initial checking through it I found the Radiator leaked. So I replaced it today along with new hoses, thermostat, and cap. After running it for 10 minutes or so the cap overflow is leaking out a slow droplet flow. I did not keep running it to see if it would overheat or not.

I hate to admit it has been so long since I worked on a car of this age and design I can’t remember if the seepage is normal or not. The only thing left to change is the water pump.

 

the old cap seeped too which is why I replaced it

the cap is now new from oreilly auto rated 7lbs

 

You cannot fill these radiators to the top. They will push excess water out the overflow until the needed expansion space is achieved. Make sure there is no air captured inside the engine.

 

How much air space in the top of the tank is appropriate?

 

Right. No overflow catch bottle like new-fangled cars. I was raised to leave about 2" headspace.

I hope you saved your old radiator... infinitely more durable than newer ones.

 

That '64 with the column shift you had in Alaska was a Tuxedo Park. It should have had an 8322 prefix on the serial number tag.
As far as your seeping radiator cap, Walt is correct in his post above. The coolant in the radiator tank should be at least an inch below the top of the neck. Try running it this way before you go to any other repairs. Over time, and multiple run cycles, the radiator cap will seep out excess coolant, then stop seeping once it reaches its "happy" level.
Just keep checking that the coolant in the tank is above the tops of the tubes of the core.
-Donny

 

Yes have saved the old radiator and the mounting hardware as it was 21 inches wide (3 inches more than the replacement that at 18. I save everything

I intend to have the old radiator tested to ensure It was not stupidity on my part replacing it when it was the overflow.

I will drop the level tomorrow and test run it for a while to see if it cools as it should

 

It was a good Jeep with a sound hardtop (Myer I think) in hindsight seeing the 134 F engine in my current Jeep, I now understand that it had had its engine replaced with the 134 L engine, before I got it. I was good on the flat lands around Fairbanks, but did lack power on the major hills of the Highway to Anchorage. I really liked it

I never understood how hard it would be to find a column shift. I will keep looking and restore the one I have in my hands now with its Koenig hardtop.

 

When I fill a radiator. I run the engine with the radiator cap off. You can see the coolant run/move when it reaches temperature. You can add coolant when needed and it lets air out. Watch the temp gauge when doing this.

 

Appreciate all the input

Dropped the fluid level 1 inch, then ran it for 30 minutes, it held at 160 or so throughout. No more seepage, but the runnning did work out a few air bubbles so I topped off to 1 inch down from the cap.