Push Rod Replacement

A while back, i blew my head gasket. While changing it, i noticed the push rods were bent and warped. I hammered them back to straight so i could finish the job, knowing i had to take the valve cover off later to retourqe the bolts, and would replace later. Ffwd to today, new pushrods arrived, and one was broke. What is going wrong with modern manufacturing?

 

It's called off shore manufacturing, plain and simple.

 

when I got engine rebuilt many many years ago . they gave 231 push rods . made engine sound like a air compressor . were too long
I agree off shore parts

 

x2
Even the fantastic all steel old toys have become victim to cheap off shore manufacturing!

 

On the other hand, we as consumers hate to pay for what it actually took to get old fashioned quality.

It's a form of hidden inflation. Prices stay low, but the equivalent quality is way more expensive.

 

Smith Bros Pushrods Bend,Oregon. High quality never look back. I have a set of adjustables in my '69 225 dauntless.
Send a sample and they can make it.

 

I've become so disgusted with new replacement parts that I have resorted to seeking out NOS parts on eBay when possible. Can't always do it but, I try to when I can and if time allows.

 

I joke that I get better quality things at the dump than I do at the store, but in fact that is the sad truth.

 

So, after all the monkeying around with my headgasket, stripped head bolt, carefully helicoiling and tightening and then retightening my headbolts, i go to replace my bent pushrods, and its milky oil under the valve cover.



I quit, buying a tj.

 

no don't do it
it's cheaper to keep her
buy a whole engine . or have a shop rebuild this one

 

Quick search came up with nothing on the local CL. Cant justify 2k in a shop rebuild.

Maybe i could get that dyno guy to do it

What are the odds its residual antifreeze from the gasket/blow/change?

 

You might want to leak down that motor and find out what is really wrong with it................bent pushrods.....maybe timing gears / chain? or coupled with water in the oil and a blown head gasket maybe a cracked head???

 

I just got off the phone with machine shop. He recommended doing a leak test on the coolant system on the head first. He also said I should check the actual oil by draining it. He thought it might be nothing really serious. Maybe I'm overreacting

 

Above is the milky oil i saw. And the other is a cold radiator, with fluid coming to just above the fins

 

It could be stuff was trapped in the low points after the blown gasket.

Also, F-Heads are well known to have "milk shake" oil (especially on the dipstick) if they don't run warm enough/often enough to burn out the condensation.

That also relates to having a functional PCV system, and radiator thermostat.

Good luck!

 

Taste it. If it just tastes like oil, it's just condensation. If there's a hint of antifreeze, good luck.

My money is on condensation. Have you had it up to a good steady hot temp since the rework?

 

Only for about 20 minutes so I could read torque the head bolts after I changed the head gasket

 

sometimes you got to change oil and filter twice after messing with head gasket . I agree with others you got to run it longer . let it heat up . throw a towel over front of grill . but watch temperature

 

Eewwwww…