Pinion seals

I want to change the pinion seals in my 30 and 44.

Timken offers 2 options for the seals. The 5778 and the 5778v. supposedly the same seal fits both the front and rear. This isn't a stocked item anywhere around here so I can't go compare them. The one with the v is twice as much money as the one without. Can someone here confirm these are the right seals and tell me what the difference is between the 2?

Also when changing pinion seals on the CJ D30 and D44, its just remove the nut, yoke, old seal, install new seal, install yoke, install nut. Correct?

Thanks

Bob

 

I have changed the seals in a 30, and amc 20 rear but not a 44. If I remember correctly, both the 20 and 30 seals had the groove in it that you are discribing. Im sure someone else that knows for sure will chime in soon to confirm or correct my statements. Sorry I couldnt be more help.

 

My initial guess was that the "V" seal is made of Viton, and the other is made of nitrile rubber.

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/seals/automotive/Pages/V-Seals.aspx#

The other possibility is that they are both nitrile, and The "V" seal has a V design, as shown in the link.

I'd send an email to Timken and ask for an explanation, or catalog page that explains the difference.

 

What Timgr said. Also, Dana 25,27,30, and 44's use the same pinion seal. Make sure the yoke seal surface is not burred, pitted, or deeply grooved. If it is either replace the yoke or use a speedi sleeve to repair the seal surface. Put a little sealer on the splines inside the yoke to prevent leaks down the splines. Make sure you tighten the pinion nut with a torque wrench. A little dab of blue threadlocker on the threads will help keep the nut from coming loose on its own.


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Which one you ended up getting? The 5778 or the 5778v? My rear Dana 44 started to leak and I am asking myself the same question.

Thanks!

 

Greg of Willys Motors just sold me 4 NOS Spicer seals for $10 each shipped.

Here's some cross over information...
Jeep part # 639265 / 998092...D25/D27/D30/D44 Pinion seal = SKF 15788 = NAT 5778 = NAT S10050 = VICTOR 60536 = Timken 5778 = CR 5778

 

I bought the regular (cheaper one) but I have yet to install it. I got sick and had not been able to work on the CJ6 for quite some time. I am hoping for a mild winter so I can resume work on the frame off so its ready for paint and coatings by spring.

 

The only thing I would add is to stress that you put it back together with a NEW pinion nut. I believe they’re called a “cinch nut” and are a one-time deal.

 

If the threads are in good shape and clean/oil free you can use a dab of threadlocker.
A new nut is always a good idea though.


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This thread has now got me worried. I replaced the rear pinion seal on my front diff about two months ago and torqued the old nut back on to TSM specs (took everything I had to get it there). I didn't use any threadlocker. Haven't driven it much with the front diff engaged and under load. Is that nut going to back off on me?

 

Not saying it “will” happen but I have had it happen and while I will defer to nickmil’s expertise, a pinion nut is what, $6? Cheap insurance.

Edit: I should note that when my front pinion nut backed out letting the pinion gear move forward taking out all the teeth on it and the ring gear it wasn’t during would be called normal, or sane, wheeling. I was pulling a friend’s full sized rig out that he had buried up to the frame in a river gravel bar. So I was yanking on a rig twice the size and weight of my Jeep. If you don’t do that you might not have the same problem.

 

Personally I'd remove the nut and put threadlocker on it at the least. I put threadlocker even on new pinion yoke nuts. Too much depends on them staying tight.


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Here I am digging up old threads but that seal is also the inner seal for the Ramsey PT1-J PTO.