Parts To Paint Vs Powder Coat On Engine

small nicks and such touch up well with testor model paint but you need to get them prepped and covered quick

this is very true, one reason people say they object to powder is the difficulty to remove, but aircraft stripper makes it fall off in a big gooey sheet (ive messed up a couple parts and know first hand)

non gloss powder being pourous? A, that seems wierd as its basically plastic that gets melted to seal a piece, but in your case "the proof is in the pudding"
and B. i would hope a professional applier would mention this before having a bunch of stuff coated!!!

 

Like Donny, I had several large items done, roll bar, front bumper, rear draw bar, tow bar etc...
The high gloss has held up well for 18 years now...and I no longer have to keep 6 cans of gloss black Krylon on the shelf.

 

Anything that has the potential to be repaired by say, heating and welding should be painted. Powdercoated surfaces are very difficult to get clean enough to weld, although I have never tried aircraft stripper. I have a Harbor Freight powder coater that works fine. I beadblast the parts first. I use it for small parts, hood and tailgate hinges, hooks and the like. Size of the oven is the limiting factor. In the engine compartment, the valve cover on the F134, the heater box, the intake horn, I did not do the oil bath air cleaner as it would be dripping oil in the oven and maybe catch fire. Fan shroud, paint as it is too big for my oven. I use the semi gloss powder. An excellent paint that matches the semi gloss black powder coat is SEM Trim Black. Comes in spray cans. Very tough paint. Stands up to Super Clean.

 

I live in the rust belt, we have a lot of parts, motors, axels, transmissions, just no bodies. A lot of us go down South or out West to get bodies, and build nice clean cars. Jeeps are so simple that a hobby body man can repair the body with just a few parts, and make the rest.