Ox U-joints

Anyone have any opinion on OX u-joints.

 

They're the strongest thing you can put in a Dana 30 or Daan 44 front axle. That's pretty much my opinion backed up by years of incredibly abusive testing.

 

How do they compare to CTM's? Nickmil

 

Remember that my opinion is worthless, but it IS free....

I think its cheaper and easier to replace a u-joint than a broken axle. U-joints fit in my tool box. U-joints can be bought at any auto parts store.

A broken u-joint means that the horrible snap I heard was a cheap, easy to replace part instead of an expensive, hard to replace part that I have to mail order while my Jeep sits out in the woods somewhere. I'd be much prouder of the NAPA u-joint that broke itself than the CTM/Ox u-joint that broke my axle.

If you compete, then they make a lot of sense. If you don't compete then it could mean a ruined weekend because of a broken axle/differential instead of an unplanned lunch stop while you replace a cheap, easily accessible part.

 

code Red has it figured out.I couldnt have said it better!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I definitely agree to a point. The problem is when the U-joint breaks it frequently takes out the axles, and if running a locker sometimes all the force is transmitted through the diff and wipes out the U-joint and axles on the other side, as well as the locker in the diff. The stronger U-joints with alloy axles help alleviate the weak link. Some of us with custom axles (dana 44 fronts, etc.) want to eliminate as many weak links as possible for our usage. Of course there is a trade-off, we then don't know what's going to break. Could be something in the diff at that point, but normally the locking hub becomes the weak link, which is much easier to replace than an axle or u-joint. Nickmil

 

Pretty much exactly what I was going to say. Almost every axle ujoint that I have ever broken or seen broken has taken the axle with it, so in the axles the stronger joints would be better, especially if you have alloy axles. When the lockout becomes the weak point you are better off because they are a simple fix, and most if you get a good set of Warn's or something like that with a lifetime warranty you only have to buy the first set.

 

Well, thanks for the input. I pretty much need stronger axles and u-joints, I will let the hub be the weak link. Unfortunately as far as the ox joint goes, they are in the middle of redesigning. They may not have anything ready by the time I purchase. I guess I will look at some other options.

 

My concern with the above, is that if the "problem is when the U-joint breaks it frequently takes out the axles". And I agree that this is true. Then the answer is to get alloy axles. If the weaker u-joint took out the axle when it failed, then the stronger u-joint, which will allow the torque to build to an even higher level, will certainly do the same or worse. I went with alloy axles specifically to get axles which were hardened and tested to survive u-joint failure without damage to the yokes.

However, The hub as a 'fuse' does make a lot more sense than the u-joint. My reservation here is that I've seen u-joints fail, and I've seen axles fail (always with a broken u-joint at the same time.), but I've never seen a hub fail. I know that it happens, but in my experience, the hub is not weakest part. If the hub was the weak link, then where did all those broken axles and u-joints come from? Fixing every broken axle or u-joint always starts with disassembling a pristine hub.

So I believe that the hub is in many cases stronger than the factory u-joint. The other option, which I considered, was the 'hub fuse'. I think Warn makes them. I would much rather replace one of those than a u-joint. 5 minutes vs. 20 minutes. However it still becomes a hard to find part. NAPA in Murphy, NC isn't going to have one when you break it. Also, I didn't want to increase the chance of a failure. I thought adding a weaker part on purpose was just asking for headaches.

Just my 2 cents, and I won't be offended if you ask for change.

 

Hub fuse is only for selectable lockers. If you're running an auto locker like Detroit or lunchbox and the hub fues goes it will often times destroy the locker. Ask me how I know....

As long as you're running an Ox, ARB, or other traction device that locks in as a spool and doesn't have any auto ratcheting features the hub fuses are a good idea.

 

Here's what I saw in my club last year. FWIW everybody runs alloy axles and a full case detroit in front.

Broken stub axles destroy spindles, probably the bearings, maybe the hub and maybe the locker.

Broken hubs broke 5 sidegears in detroits last year. We all run slugs now.

Some run 300m u-joints and some run regular spicer stuff, but no broken u-joints. That's because the spicers get replaced regularly-before they break.

I would buy a 300m u-joint before ox. All the seperate parts seem silly.

 

Anybody have any experience with yukon superjoints?

 

I have heard of people having good luck with the yukon joints. Now, to help me decide, I am trying to learn which joints wear the least since they all have no roller bearings.

 

I think thats all up to you, in how often you service them. I know the superjoints we sell through work come with a little grease gun and their "special" grease. I'll prob end up running the superjoints in mine just because thats what I can get through work, but have no experience with the OXs first hand....thats why I was wondering how they stack up.