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Overly Sensitive Clutch

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Buildflycrash, Mar 12, 2020.

  1. Mar 12, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    I'm going to have to pull/rebuild my T14 transmission and definitely want to get this second bird while I'm in there.

    My clutch is very sensitive! There is only about 2" on the pedal from Fully engaged to fully distinguished. You know the pedal has like 10"+ of travel so there is a lot of searching for the spot where it starts and I sometimes stall on taking off from a stop. :oops: Wheeling on rough trails is very hard with this clutch.

    I have the Advanced Adapter chain linkage (which works great) and I have no idea what brand clutch. I think it was the cheap one from RockAuto. A longer clutch fork would likely help but I don't know how much?? (it needs a lot of help). I have searched the forums with no luck. Hope this is an issue that we've seen/solved in the past.

    Thanks for your input!
     
  2. Mar 12, 2020
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
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    Mines sorta the same, I have described it as grabby. Lot's of travel, lot's of travel... bang head against seat!

    Looking forward to what comes out of this. Good luck with the tranny, looks like you are about to learn a few things.
     
  3. Mar 12, 2020
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Is it possible that the chain linkage setup could cause the grabbing?
     
  4. Mar 12, 2020
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Spokane Valley, WA
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    The best thing I ever did with my v6 was to swap the bellhousing out for one from a Monza. The Jeep clutch’s pivot point is on the near-side of the throw out bearing, giving it a stiff and short 1:1 ratio. The Monza had a long clutch arm that put the pivot on the far side of the throw out bearing, giving it twice the travel at half the pedal pressure.

    This requires a re-route of the actuation, since what was pulling rearward to disengage the clutch would now need to push the arm forward.
     
    givemethewillys likes this.
  5. Mar 12, 2020
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    Mine does the same. I have the chain setup, but it made no difference in the jerkiness from the stock setup.

    I have a thread somewhere on it as well from about 2 years ago. I was hoping to pull mine this winter but never got around to it. I think i have a heavy duty clutch but need to pull the trans to verify.
     
  6. Mar 12, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I searched at Summit Racing a bit tonight. I did find a fork that in a review someone mentioned that the fork was longer and made depressing the clutch easier. Then I called and the guy I spoke with wasn’t at all helpful. I’ll call again tomorrow and see if someone is a bit more ambitious about helping me find the good fork.

    I was hoping (like y’all above) that someone would know - “so & so clutch is muck less sensitive “.
     
  7. Mar 13, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    Looking at the forks online seems very few have the slot and hole needed for a cable clutch linkage. Is that something anyone has drilled/cut to make fit?
     
  8. Mar 13, 2020
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Spokane Valley, WA
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    Cables were used on 70/71 to replace the linkage IIRC.
     
  9. Mar 13, 2020
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    The '70-71 cable setup seems well-liked. Ask jpflat2a. The cable from Inline Tube seems good. The '72 cable setup was a disaster.

    Which clutch cover do you have? The diaphragm covers take less pedal pressure to move.

    I don't think you can judge now until it's together again.
     
  10. Mar 13, 2020
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Spokane Valley, WA
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    You can always lengthen the lower arm and shorten the upper arm on the pivot tube to get a (edit) shorter throw on the clutch arm also.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2020
  11. Mar 13, 2020
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    But with the chain setup we arent using the stock tube setup. But yes that would help.
     
  12. Mar 13, 2020
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Spokane Valley, WA
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    My bad. I didn’t realize OP was using the chain.

    Edit: Duh. I re-read the first post. :oops:
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2020
  13. Mar 13, 2020
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    Work seems to think we are goong to stay busy. I think its going to taper off fast. Might have to take the cj in to work if that happens and pull the trans
     
  14. Mar 13, 2020
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    This. Most of the replacement cables available are garbage. I fought them for years before I got the cable from Inline Tube....no more worries!
     
    1967 CJ5A likes this.
  15. Mar 13, 2020
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    After this thread, I just ordered and Inline Tube cable to have on the shelf.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2020
    Rick Whitson and Glenn like this.
  16. Mar 13, 2020
    1967 CJ5A

    1967 CJ5A Mike 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I used a crown cable for about 2 years, then it snapped. No warning. I was lucky I was at home when it happened. I replaced it with the Inline Tube cable, which is much better quality and lower resistance. This made the pedal a little easier to push, but it is still very sensitive.

    It also stretches a lot less, making adjustments far less frequent.

    I have wondered about changing the overall ratio at the pedal end instead of the fork. It wouldn't be too hard to drill a new hole in the pedal arm closer to the pivot point.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2020
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  17. Mar 13, 2020
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    I have several 'stock' 225 clutch arms, but I've gone to the old standard Chevy truck clutch arm on all my setups. I'm running this with the SM465 as well as the T18s with the input turned to take a Chevy TO bearing.

    I also used them on the stock T90/T14s before going to the SM465 and T18s as it gave me a better throw and fit - especially with Hydro Clutches. I've not run the chain - was looking at them and went the hydro direction instead.

    I also know there are two LUK Clutch setups - 01-029 and 04-021 where one it 'taller' than the other so more throw in the PPlate Fingers. I honestly don't remember which at this point. The 01-029 is for a Jeep and the 04-021 is for a Chevy.

    There used to be an old site called 'Dial-a-Clutch' (not there anymore) where you could put in the specs of what you needed - focus on the shaft fit for the Disk and flywheel for the PPlate and it would mix and match to give you what you needed. That is the best way IMOP to figure what clutch you need. That way you can get a taller (more throw on the diaphragm) as long as it bolted to the flywheel and the Disk fit under it and fit the tranny input shaft.

    One other thing - it seems ALL my clutches are either IN or OUT, and I kinda like them that way. I have too many 'young people' use my rigs where I'm teaching them to wheel and it saves them riding the clutch and makes them pick the right gear.
     
    termin8ed likes this.
  18. Mar 13, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Thanks for jumping on here Chuck. That Chevy Truck fork certainly is longer than a stock fork and would definitely give more pedal travel. How much more? I have no idea.

    Do you think that would be a drop in replacement and we could use that fork with the current stock bearing and post?
     
  19. Mar 13, 2020
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I'm willing to bet that your clutch issues stemmed entirely from the bearing retainer problem. The throwout bearing was likely riding on the clutch fingers.... thus the instant release of the clutch.
     
  20. Mar 13, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Bet? Money? o_O

    My CJ has only been on the road for just under one year. It’s always had this issue. The clutch pedal / linkage has lots of travel before any engagement and some after as well. I do hope you’re right, but I’d bet.(y)
     
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