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Og Screws

Discussion in 'Early Jeep Restoration and Research' started by Don X, Feb 6, 2021.

  1. Feb 6, 2021
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

    San Diego,...
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2007
    Messages:
    3,383
    I've seen previous posts about the original hex head screws with the indented heads asking what people are using. My experience is with a '53 Willy's M38A1 and a '60 CJ5 which both use quite a few 1/4" screws in the floor panels and other items. 3/8" are also sprinkled in.

    There a plenty of flat top hex heads but the indented heads are more difficult to find. After searching I found several offerings on military vehicle parts suppliers but they like to add a premium because they're selling them as military spec. I ordered some from McMaster Carr and some from a vintage Cougar part supplier that I stumbled on. They have a set available for latest 60s oil pans that caught my attention.

    I'm posting some comparative photos that compare one of my original screws to what I'm calling cougar screws and the ones from McMaster Carr that I'm calling zinc screws because of the finish.

    Both of the screws that I bought are SEMS screws with the washer preinstalled. Cougar screws have solid washers and the zincs come with an outward star washer.

    My original screws are 3/8” and 5/8” in length. The cougar screws came in at 5/8". The zincs came in various lengths. I went with 3/8" and 3/4" inch. I can't remember if the 5/8” was available.

    Head heghts varied. My original screws' heads measured .17" thick. Cougars are .21" and the zincs measured at .18" on the 3/8" long screws and .185" on the 3/4" long screws.

    The imprint on top of the originals is a series of rings. The cougars have a B and the zincs are plain.

    My original washers are relatively thin while the cougar washers are thicker than typical. The star washers on the zincs are what you would expect.

    Another large difference between the original screws and the others are the newer screws are the hex heads are more rounded. For some reason that part is the most disappointing for me.

    Do here are a series of pics. Whenever I photographed all 3 together I lined them up left to right with the original, cougars and zincs. There are also some pics with just the original and one of the others. You should be able to tell which is which.

    Lastly, I painted some to show how they'll finish. The each have 1 coat if primer and 1 coat of the the finish.

    (In case you're wondering, in some pictures they're sitting on top of magnets.)

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  2. Feb 6, 2021
    Mr Vaughan

    Mr Vaughan

    nice vise
     
  3. Feb 7, 2021
    maurywhurt

    maurywhurt Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Western North...
    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2009
    Messages:
    874
    Hi Don - interesting thread, thanks for starting it.

    I bought a stainless hardware kit for early CJ's from Totally Stainless during the frame-off restoration of my '67. It was an upgrade to get the indented-head type bolts with the kit, but they didn't cost a lot more. While there were some errors in terms of the lengths of the new bolts, the vast majority were good matches to the originals.

    The bolt shown on the left below is a new 1/4-20 dash & floor screw that came with the kit, and the one on the right is an original with integral internal lockwasher. Incidentally, I found some almost identical stainless bolts on eBay prior to buying the kit.

    Instead of using lockwashers on the new bolts, I used flat stainless washers against the new paint, and used anti-seize on the threads when installing the stainless bolts in the original captive cage nuts.

    FYI, Totally Stainless sells individual bolts as well as the kits.


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    Last edited: Feb 7, 2021
    Don X and Fireball like this.
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