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Newb needs help with engine sputtering

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Jcorlew24, Dec 6, 2009.

  1. Dec 13, 2009
    Jcorlew24

    Jcorlew24 Member

    Hendersonville, TN
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    Dec 6, 2009
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    51
    I went ahead and changed the vacuum advance and fuel filter. After a full weekend of doing everything I can think of to do nothing has changed. Anyone want to buy a Jeep with a lot of new parts.:)
     
  2. Dec 13, 2009
    rusty

    rusty Well-Known Member

    norfolk,va
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    Dec 16, 2006
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    1,652
    Try timing at 6 bdc. How did the compression come out? Did you check the dist for slop in the bearings? You may want to get a factory service manual and not the chiltons so much. Good luck.
     
  3. Dec 13, 2009
    Jcorlew24

    Jcorlew24 Member

    Hendersonville, TN
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    Dec 6, 2009
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    I will try to advance the timing a little tomorrow. I have not checked the compression yet. The distibutor fells pretty tight, but not completely sure. The only things that I have not changed are the distributor cap and the rotor. I have also not checked the valves.
     
  4. Dec 13, 2009
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Just a question out of the blue: Where is the vacuum advance hose plumbed into, the base of the carb or the intake manifold? If you are tied into the intake manifold the advance unit will operate exactly opposite of the way it should. When it is connected to PORTED manifold vacuum (base of the carb) the unit will work correctly.
     
  5. Dec 14, 2009
    Jcorlew24

    Jcorlew24 Member

    Hendersonville, TN
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    Dec 6, 2009
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    It is connected to the base of the carb.
     
  6. Dec 14, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Pull the vacuum line off with the engine idling. You shouldn't have any vacuum at that port at idle. I missed it, but if you're running the Rochester 2G, there should only be one vacuum port on the front of the carb, and it's ported.
     
  7. Dec 14, 2009
    Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    New England
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    Jan 12, 2006
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    I like to set the carb adjustment with a vaccum gauge. That will get it pretty dead on, so you can eliminate adjustment as a problem. Just adjust the two screws until you get the highest vaccum. You want the screws within a quarter turn of each other tho. And you may wanna leave it a tad on the rich side.

    By the way, I get all my Fram fuel filters at walmart for dirt cheap. I prefer the clear platic ones so you can monitor the condition of your fuel/filter and also tell if there is water in the fuel.
     
  8. Dec 14, 2009
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    :iagree: with both, you should not have any vacuum going to the advance @ idle, only @ higher rpms
     
  9. Dec 14, 2009
    4xfun

    4xfun New Member

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    Apr 21, 2005
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    Take a picture of the carb from the passenger side fender (with the air cleaner removed)showing where you are hooking up your vacuum. Looking from the passenger fender, it should be on the right side near the bottom of the carb.

    The fuel filter is the same one that is used on the 70-71 225 in a jeepster. Your fuel lines have probably have been modified. Make sure that all of the fittings are tight and not sucking air. Check all the way back to the tank.
     
  10. Dec 14, 2009
    Jcorlew24

    Jcorlew24 Member

    Hendersonville, TN
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    Dec 6, 2009
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    Well I took the jeep and dropped it off at a friend of mines shop. SO maybe I will have the answer tomorrow. He seems to think it is the carb, since it is running so rich and back firing.
     
  11. Dec 14, 2009
    rusty

    rusty Well-Known Member

    norfolk,va
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    Good luck at the shop. Hope he gets it fixed. Please let us know what he finds.
     
  12. Dec 14, 2009
    Jcorlew24

    Jcorlew24 Member

    Hendersonville, TN
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    Well I hate that I couldn't find out the problem on my own, but I am stumped on this one. I have tried everything and I just can't figure it out on my own.
     
  13. Dec 14, 2009
    JAlves

    JAlves Sponsor

    Yuba City, CA
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    Oct 8, 2009
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    Sometimes it just takes another set of eyes and throwing in the towel is better than going crazy trying to solve a problem.

    Regarding the anti-backfire valve. The Air Injection System would pump air into the exhaust flow at the manifold to burn off leftover fuel but under deceleration the super rich mixture would ignite and backfire. The solution was a valve to bypass the air until normal manifold vacuum was restored. Since your system was removed you don't need to worry about it.
     
  14. Dec 15, 2009
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
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    I really have to read these post more often, I'm fighting the same problem with my motor. :rofl:
     
  15. Dec 15, 2009
    jc588

    jc588 Member

    Ruston, La
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    Scott if you have a v6 does it have the original distributor or has it been changed?
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  16. Dec 15, 2009
    Jcorlew24

    Jcorlew24 Member

    Hendersonville, TN
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    Well I have become some what of an expert in this field in the past week, so maybe I can help. Eventhough I couldn't fix mine sometimes it helps to have a second opinion.
     
  17. Dec 15, 2009
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
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    Yes, the original point type distributor. Bought new two years ago. My problem has just occured. Was running great. Checked timing, dwell, and vacuum. All checked out. I did find a leak in the intake, between the intake and head. Fixed that, to no avail. Going to do a carb rebuild next.

    My other thought. Maybe flat cam?
     
  18. Dec 15, 2009
    jc588

    jc588 Member

    Ruston, La
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    I'm having the same problem as you and Jcorlew sounds like, maybe not quite as bad. I've done everything stated but still has a little stumble. I'm not real sure or very experienced on distributors but I think mine may be worn or at least the mechanical advance springs may be worn. If you guys come up with anything please post, maybe its something obvious just being overlooked. Thanks. You know the old saying you can't see the forest for the trees.
     
  19. Dec 15, 2009
    Jcorlew24

    Jcorlew24 Member

    Hendersonville, TN
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    So I went over to my buddies shop tonight to see if we could figure out what is the problem. After doing a compression check, and checking the vacuum lines we determined that everything checked out. While giving the motor a once over we discovered a problem by using a very advanced tool called spit. When spit was applied to the driver side header it smoked, but when applied to the passenger side nothing. The plug was igniting, but wasn't burning the fuel, so the header was not heating up. This is why I was getting a loud back fire out of the passenger side exhaust. The fuel was not being burned off, and when it reached the hot exhaust it was ignited. We adjusted the timing back and forth and went from 2 passenger side spark plugs burning to 3 plugs burning. We tightened down the hold down bolt and I took it for a ride. It was almost perfect just a little bit more adjusting and I think this problem might be solved. There was still a little back fire but it was not as much and the not near as loud. I did not check what the timing was set at when we got it right, but it was no where near 5 degrees which is whats recommended in the manual. We are going do some more fine tuning on it tomorrow so I will let you know how it goes. I am also changing the glass packs out for some turbos because the sound is just annoying.
     
  20. Dec 15, 2009
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

    San Diego,...
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    Glad it's working out. It's a fine example of why anything more than 4 cylinders is wasted. :D
     
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