New Axles

ooookay :?
guess all those folks back in the 40s, 50s and 60s made a mistake then.....

D30/D44FF here
great combo IMO

 

I had the same questions as you did a year ago when I started to tear down my 3a. You can see my build here: http://earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41175

Basically, Wag 44 axles, 4" YJ spring under, 33's, frame boxing, discs f/r.

Don't kid yourself, it's a lot of work, and a lot of money. The way I figured it though, if I was going to go the whole route of lockers f/r, new springs, better brakes, etc, better to start with a more stout platform. Don't get me wrong, I really like and respect guys who wheel stock or close to stock rigs, but not for this Jeep. This one is being built to be on the road as much as on the trail. And when on the trail, I want my drivetrain to be relatively worry free.

I just started working on the 3a again, and will have some updates on my build thread soon. My only suggestion is to REALLY think about how much work it will take to modify to YJ springs and other axles, before you do anything else.

By the way, if you're going to look for Wagoneer axles, send me a pm and I'll tell you what to look for.

Good luck!

 

The 1977 Cherokee and Wagoneer had 44's both front and rear. Both offset to the passenger side.
I believe the J10 was the same.

 

Not to hijack, as there are a bunch of threads relating to Wagoneer 44 axles. But, if you're looking to stay around 58" WMS to WMS, you need to find a Wagoneer.

The FSJ Cherokees and J-Trucks use a much wider axle which would need to be narrowed on both ends. The pre-80' IIRC stock front Wag 44 is around 61", which you can narrow the long side to come up with a nice width of 58". After 80', it goes to a driver's side pumpkin.

For the rear, you're looking for a Wagoneer as well, with an off-set pumpkin. I seem to remember that most are slightly off-set to the passenger side, but the Quadra-trac models had it set off to the side even more so, and that is what you're looking for. WMS to WMS is 58" so no need to narrow. For comparison sake, I believe stock flatty axles are around 50" WMS to WMS.

If you can find a 74-77 Wagoneer, you also get the nice flat top knuckles for hi-steer, and small bearing hubs which you could convert over to F-150 outers for a 5 bolt pattern if you so desired. Anyway, most of this can be found by searching for John Nutter on google.

 

I had to agree with this, big time. Well, I actually still run 25/44 in my jeep, but they are surprisingly durable. I wheel some pretty nasty stuff...ok, I beat on my 3A pretty well...and the axles have never failed me. I run 32x11.50 super swampers, with a trusty Lhead spinning them. I think the low HP of the LHead keeps them alive, but I wouldn't change a thing. My old 3A has shown up many modern Jeeps, as surprising as that may be. I know there are much beefier components out there, but Flatfenders were built to wheel. They, even in stock form, are amazing if the driver knows how to drive them.

 

Trying not to Hi-Jack, I started a new discussion on this in the off-topic forum.

 

I was running a D27/tapered D44 for the last 2 years. My only complaint was the turning radius. I beat on it pretty good and amazingly did not break anything (- I only say amazingly because some people make it sound like you can sneeze and break them.) I wanted better turning radius so I just went to a NT D30 front, and put spacers on the rear to match. I will be getting a offset flanged D44 for the rear in the next few months. Just for a little bit more strength, locker options and to bring the width out without spacers.

If it were not for the turning radius I would have never swapped the front axle out. When I say I beat on these, I really did.

 

You can't get much more reliable than a stock or slightly adjusted flatfender. Mine is all stock with cut 32" TSLs and I welded up the stock rearend for the last trip. Now I am working on the Toyota starter swap so that might put too much on the axles.

 

Why would a starter swap effect the axles? Also can you tell me more about the Toyota starter swap?
Thanks
Keith

 

I was kidding about the starter breaking the axles. It is the infestation of japanese parts that might make it sickly and want to die.

The starter swap has been discussed on here before. I will be adding my tech thread on it when I am done. Its really simple but I got into a lot of other stuff that was bothering me at the time also.

 

I have seen it talked about for the F head, are you doing it on an L head?
Keith

 

yes its all done I just haven't finished the head yet.