1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Need painting help........

Discussion in 'Early Jeep Restoration and Research' started by Gump, May 18, 2005.

  1. May 18, 2005
    Gump

    Gump Old Timer

    Bethel, CT
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2004
    Messages:
    236
    What's a good, lasting paint that I don't have to clear coat. I'll be spraying outside with bugs, and dust and it's my first time. I'm doing a frame off so I'll have the body parts out side to paint. I'll be cleaning the stuff as soon as I can get a couple of people to help lift the tub off.

    I have a video but they don't talk about brands.
     
  2. May 18, 2005
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,745
    alkyd or synthetic enamal works well for me. Same stuff as tractor or impliment paint. Not as glossy but sticks to everything and with hardner is pretty tuff.IMO
     
  3. May 18, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    Some time back we had pics of nice temporary spray booths some of our members made using plastic sheeting and 2x4s, and a couple box fans with filter media in front of them (intake and exhaust). Eliminates bugs and dust.
    Interested in something like that? Maybe someone still has some pics...


    This thread, as well as others, turned up on a search for "paint booth"

    http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8889&highlight=paint+booth

    HTH
     
  4. May 18, 2005
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    If you want a single stage paint with gloss like OEM paint, I'd suggest a single-stage acrylic enamel. PPG Omni is well regarded and cheap. http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/cmg/mae.html

    The hardner for these paints contains isocyanate, so you need to be careful about breathing the overspray, getting it on your skin, and controlling the overspray.
     
  5. May 18, 2005
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

    Really Southern...
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2004
    Messages:
    822
    x2. It's what I used.
     
  6. May 18, 2005
    CT

    CT Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2004
    Messages:
    238
    I also agree with Tim I used the Omni paint and painted it just outside my barn door. Below is a post I did a few months ago about painting jeeps. Great results. See this site for a picture of my comet blue 56 jeep.

    http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7125&highlight=1956

    Regards
    Cliff



    I am not a professional auto paint man. However I just painted my 56 Willy’s with the original “Comet Blue” color paint. I went to my local ABC auto parts paint store, and they called a color lab who interned looked it up and gave them the formula.


    They had several grades of paint they could mix it in. I opted for a cheaper base coat. It was $56 per gallon. This along with the hardener and reducer kept my price to about $85.00 I used the recommend method of mixing in a hardener, and was extremely pleased with barn painting results. This is the 3 rd jeep I have done. It gets easier each time. And I would put mine up against a MECCO paint job any day.

    Call any of the auto shops and see where they mix their paint. They should be able to get you the same color.



    I know you didn’t ask, just wanted to offer a couple of quick painting tips. I remove my hood, fenders and grill and paint them separately. That way it is easier to paint the fire wall and the inside of the fenders. A quick and easy masking method for the motor and any other parts you do not want to paint is to use aluminum foil. I also painted my gear shifts and steering column gloss black before painting the jeep. I also covered them with foil. This is an old trick I learned from my antique tractor friends.
     
  7. May 19, 2005
    Gump

    Gump Old Timer

    Bethel, CT
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2004
    Messages:
    236
    Thanks guys.

    Cliff, Now you started some more questions, which gun/brand did you use and what capacity was your compressor? I have a Sears that is about 10 cfm @ 40 psig and no gun yet. I have removed all of the body parts so I can clean it up, wire brush, weld the front cross member both ends and paint. I also am going to change the tranny/t-box, clutch, rear main seal, all the gaskets and felts in the T90/D18 of the one going in.

    No show job but if I can get it even close to your paint job I'd VERY happy. Nice job on your 5.

    This was 3 weeks ago

    [​IMG]
     
  8. May 19, 2005
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    Rit, your question wasn't addressed to me; hope you don't mind if I reply.

    I'd buy this one: http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/Astro/Astro Pneumatic - APHVLPDX5.htm
    You could also consider the Devilbiss Finish Line II. You want a HVLP gun (high volume low pressure) because it uses a lot less paint than the cheaper guns; much less overspray. Harbor Freight sells spray guns too, although I don't know anything abut the quality.
     
  9. May 19, 2005
    Gump

    Gump Old Timer

    Bethel, CT
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2004
    Messages:
    236
    Oh yeah Tim, that's my price range too. thanks very much.

    I've seen a plastic booth like that before but I think I might get drummed out of the neighborhood. I'm afraid some one will call the DEP when they see me roll the frame out and start cleaning it in the drive way. Good night job.
     
  10. May 19, 2005
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

    Really Southern...
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2004
    Messages:
    822
    Why do you think the booth pic is at night? ;)
    If you think that the neighbors will give you trouble, just explain that the booth is to help keep overspray off their cars and house. They might even help you build it after that!
     
  11. May 19, 2005
    Gump

    Gump Old Timer

    Bethel, CT
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2004
    Messages:
    236
    How fast does the PPG OMNI MAE 'B' paint dry. In Connecticut with our usual summer 90% humidity.
     
  12. May 19, 2005
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

    Really Southern...
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2004
    Messages:
    822
    Someone else jump in on this if I'm wrong, but because it's a chemical cure, I don't believe that humidity will be the main factor. I "think" temp is though. You will however, need to be extra careful about using a water trap and/or line dryer while spraying. Oh, and NEVER use an air hose that was used for air tools. Buy a brand new, never been used, one.
     
  13. May 19, 2005
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    Uh, I too think that temperature is the main factor, though humidity will make the solvents evaporate more slowly. When you buy your reducer, different mixes will be supplied for different temperature ranges. Your paint store will sell you the reducer you need for your conditions - measure the temperature in the area where you will work, and follow the store's advice.

    I haven't read or heard this anywhere, but it seems that the chemical cure of the hardner takes place after the solvents have evaporated. Thus the paint is dry but soft for a while, and slowly hardens by combining with the hardener.

    Here's more about this in a very good post about prep and painting by a pro: http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000051;p=2#000043
     
  14. May 19, 2005
    Gump

    Gump Old Timer

    Bethel, CT
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2004
    Messages:
    236
    Jeebus, that's one of the best books I've ever read. Thanks very much. I'll reread often.

    I bought a video from the bodyshop.com, I think, but it's geared more for cars and I guess people that already know what they're doing a little.

    My clutch parts just came today. Jeez, my wife is going to kill me. I've been rebuilding the main bathroom for almost 2 years and now she's pissed anytime I'm in the garage over 10 minutes. I really need to get this 2A done before July.
     
  15. May 19, 2005
    CT

    CT Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2004
    Messages:
    238
    Tim

    I am cheap. I used the 15.00 special paint gun at harbor freight. And tossed it in the trash can when I finished. :>)

    My air compressor is about the same size of yours. So you should be ok.


    One major item to get is a filter to get any water out of your compressed air. You can put these right at the paint gun. Get 2 in case one breaks. (I know!!! ) they don't cost much. They are made out of plastic.
    Moisture in your air will indeed mess up a paint job. Also if your compressor has a drain plug on the bottom of it. Might want to air it up cut the power off and let it blow a couple of times before painting. Just to help get rid of any water.
     
  16. May 25, 2005
    Gump

    Gump Old Timer

    Bethel, CT
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2004
    Messages:
    236
    Thanks. I leave the bottom valve open all the time, except when I'm using it.

    We're getting some real crappy weather this month, cold and rainy, so I guess I'll just work on the tranny. I can't put anything out side yet.
     
New Posts