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My New 1958 Cj5, Brake And Tranny Questions

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Burndoubt, May 3, 2017.

  1. May 3, 2017
    Burndoubt

    Burndoubt Member

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    Hello,
    Here is the beginning of a new romance with my CJ5. This will be used for day trips exploring the local dirt roads and class 4 road system, so it will see a good amount of off road use if everything goes well. I have a couple of photos to post so far, which I will do as soon as I figure out how! I am just getting to know how everything works on it and so far I need to fix the speedometer and the transmission pops out of second when decelerating. I'm assuming it has something to do with the synchro, so my plan so far is to run it for now and rebuild the transmission and T- case over the winter. First upgrade will definitely need to be brakes! There is so much information and opinions on brakes that it is hard to make a decision. Is it worth the extra money to upgrade to discs (at least in the front) or will 11" drums stop sufficiently off road? It currently has 9" drums all around.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 3, 2017
  2. May 3, 2017
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Re the brakes the 11" will work fine but in this day & age it might be easier/cheaper to go disks. As I'm sure you've read a dual MC is highly recommended & you'll need to balance them front/rear with the appropriate valving.

    Jumping out of second is common, can be the synchros/popit spings/pilot bearing.

    Good luck :)

    H.
     
  3. May 3, 2017
    Burndoubt

    Burndoubt Member

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    Thanks, I thought about trying the poppet springs and balls to see if that might help. I did read about the MC, so I figured that would be important. I'd honestly be fine with drums other than how poorly they work when wet and the trails I run do have frequent puddles and some very light water crossings.
     
  4. May 3, 2017
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Typical to this transmission, the T-90, is a worn-out 2nd gear. The gear has a bushing inside it that rides on the main shaft. When the bushing wears out, the gear skews on the shaft when decelerating and pushes the synchromesh collar away from the gear. This makes the transmission go into neutral. You can buy a replacement gear with a new bushing, but the transmission has to come completely apart to fix this - not much you can do to a manual transmission without removing it from the car and taking it apart. You should check the other issues first, but coming out on decelleration is a pretty good diagnostic.

    Transmission out is easy for a CJ. I've done it in my driveway with only the factory jack.
     
  5. May 3, 2017
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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  6. May 3, 2017
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    Fixed.
     
  7. May 3, 2017
    Twin2

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    looks like you have a really good starting platform (jeep)
    brakes and steering are the best up grades for a early
     
  8. May 3, 2017
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    I converted to discs up front for "even" stopping power and low maintenance. Upgraded the rears to 11". I already had a dual MC.
     
  9. May 3, 2017
    Burndoubt

    Burndoubt Member

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    thank you!
     
  10. May 3, 2017
    Burndoubt

    Burndoubt Member

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    I figured if I have to drop it, I may as well fix everything that needs it. The Novak website has an excellent video on assembly, so I think I will be all set. I'm just hoping I don't end up having to replace everything!
     
  11. May 3, 2017
    Burndoubt

    Burndoubt Member

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    What is recommended for steering upgrades. I haven't had the chance to research options.
     
  12. May 3, 2017
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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  13. May 3, 2017
    Burndoubt

    Burndoubt Member

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    Thanks, I'll check it out! I have the stock F head four banger.
     
  14. May 3, 2017
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Conventional wisdom says that power steering is too much of a parasitic load for the F134... but it's been done before. Saginaw manual steering is the usual option - you'll still need some muscle with wide tires. What size are your tires?

    A one-piece tie rod is a common upgrade, even with the factory Ross steering. It reduces bump steer by keeping a constant toe-in. You could also have the alignment checked, and ask for the printout from the machine. Lifted Jeeps often have messed-up suspension geometry, and correcting that will make it steer better on the highway.
     
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  15. May 3, 2017
    Burndoubt

    Burndoubt Member

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    The tires are 33x12.5 but they rub pretty good at full turn with the front and with some articulation they rub the tub. I haven't figure out if the best option is different offset to the rims, adding spacers or replacing the tires with some 10.5" instead. It tracks pretty straight going down the road currently, but it could definitely be better.
     
  16. May 3, 2017
    Daryl

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    The best advice is to drive it as much as you can and really get to know the Jeep before you tear it apart to fix stuff. Brakes are usually the most important item to address up front.
     
  17. May 3, 2017
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

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    Stock Ross steering? Before you do anything go through the system & see where the slop, if any, is showing up. Do a search here on "death wobble". Even if converting to a saggy box you still need to check things like the hub bearings.

    Stop.

    Stear.

    Go.

    Those are your priorities & in that order.

    H.
     
  18. May 3, 2017
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    The wide tires, especially on narrow-ish rims, will rub on the springs. It does not hurt anything. There are stops on the axle that you can adjust to limit the turning angle.

    Rubbing on the flat vertical inside surface of the rear fender house when the wheel is stuffed is also common, and not very significant. You don't have to fix it unless it bothers you.

    My main concern with the big tires is that IMO they are pretty large for the amount of power you have. Others will comment on the "ideal" size for a F134 Jeep, but I'd expect it's more like a 29 or 30 size tire in a moderate width. Such a large tire both reduces the effective axle ratio and has a somewhat higher rolling resistance, as well as storing more momentum. Aside from impacting acceleration, it affects braking, which can't be great with the 9" drums.

    Don't take this as criticism - I'm just commenting so you can be better informed. Something to consider. Regardless, I would not choose such a large tire for a F134 Jeep.
     
  19. May 3, 2017
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    31 x 10.5 is a decent size tire for an F-head, IMHO. Look good too.
     
  20. May 4, 2017
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    My 64 CJ with F 134 motor is a lot happier with skinny tires, it is easier to drive and rides better. I live in a sandy area of Michigan. There is mud but you have to look for it. I drive mostly on fire trails and blacktop.
     
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