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My First Jeep Build 69 Cj-5

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Timber Cruiser, Nov 30, 2018.

  1. Jan 25, 2021
    Timber Cruiser

    Timber Cruiser Member

    Oregon
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2018
    Messages:
    79
    I'm pretty excited for this next upgrade. I've been keeping my eye out for a Warn "Jeep Special Equipment" 8074 for a couple years. I've found plenty of 8274s and even a few regular 8074s. I was starting to give up hope and thinking of settling on a 8274. A few weeks ago I was looking at a Chevy Blazer for my neighbor. The guy who owned it was telling me about the Ramsey winch he took off of it and in passing I mentioned I was looking for a Jeep 8074. He said he thought he had one, and dug this out. So we made a deal, and now the search is over. This should be a fun restoration project all in its self.

     
  2. Jan 25, 2021
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2011
    Messages:
    5,407
    here is a picture of filler strip
    DSCN0547 - Copy.JPG
    as to door straps
    it's just a footman loop on tub .
    DSCN0548 - Copy.JPG
     
    Timber Cruiser likes this.
  3. Aug 2, 2021
    Timber Cruiser

    Timber Cruiser Member

    Oregon
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2018
    Messages:
    79
    One of the big complaints my wife has had with my Jeep is the heat. We took it up in the mountains a couple of weeks ago and she had to put her feet on the dash because it was hurting her feet. It's also really loud, which I'm fine with when I'm riding alone, but takes away from the enjoyment when my wife or kids are along for the ride. So, I started looking into what I could do to solve both of these problems. I've used Dynamat on hot rods, but it expensive, and I wasn't convinced it would be a good fit for the Jeep. After lots of dragging my feet, I finally decided to take the plunge and give it a try. I ended up using Dynamat Extreme and Dynadeck together.

    I convinced my wife to give me a hand rolling in the Dynamat Extreme. It was fun having her help and she actually enjoyed being a part of the project.

    After sealing all the seams with Dynatape we were ready to get started with the Dynadeck.

    I bought a 9'x54" piece and made cardboard templates to lay it all out before I started cutting. It took almost all of it, so I'm really glad I did this.

    Much to my wife's relief, my dad stopped by and took over for her. It was 97 degrees so, she was ready to get out of the heat.

    The dog house was a real pain. It ended up being the most difficult part for me.

    Next was drilling the rivets on the doors and cleaning everything, installing Dynamat Extreme, and then reassembly.

    Finally I put everything back together and took my wife to coffee for a test ride. The results were very good. The heat issue is completely solved. She wore flipflops and the floor remained at a low reasonable temp. The sound was also a big improvement. While its no Lexus, which I did not expect, the volume was cut to a level where it was easy to have a conversation. I'm planning to do a headliner and experiment a little more. Overall This was a big success. If I were to do it again, or looking at what I would do differently, I would have used Secondskin products instead of Dynamat. I think I would have had similar results without spending as much.
     
    vtxtasy, Snoops, Dne007 and 7 others like this.
  4. Aug 2, 2021
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    Cypress, Tx
    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2019
    Messages:
    1,549
    That is nice!!!!!
     
    Timber Cruiser likes this.
  5. Aug 17, 2021
    Timber Cruiser

    Timber Cruiser Member

    Oregon
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2018
    Messages:
    79
    Several months ago I put some 6 degree shims on my dana 27 to reduce the wandering in the steering. I've been really happy with the results, but I'm not super excited about the shims. So I thought, since I'm still on drum brakes, I would just pull the front end this winter and re-clock the spring hangers, install the power lock I have for it, and convert it over to disc brakes all at the same time. Well that plan kind of changed a couple weeks ago when a friend of mine offered me his dana 30. He had it rebuilt a couple years ago and re-geard to 4.88s, which matches my CJ. He also had a locker installed and since it has disk brakes, it kind of checks off all of the boxes I was going to do to the dana 27. Anyway, he made me a great offer and now I'm starting the switch. Here is my progress over the weekend.

    Pulling the axle was pretty painless.

    With the two axles sitting next to each other, I was kind of surprised at just how different they really are from each other.

    The next step was to cut the spring pads off and re clock them. No shims this time.

    Everything was going good, but I think the heat was getting to me. It was close to 100 in the shop. I had the pads welded in place and painted, flipped the axle, and realized to my horror that I clocked them the wrong way. Not knowing weather to laugh or cry, I just decided to accept my fate. I started back at removing the pads again, and got back to work correcting my error. The upside is that I was much happier with my welds on the second round.

    I got the dana 30 under the Jeep and have it back on its own weight. Sorry no pictures of that part yet. I'm waiting for some brake parts to arrive from Summit before I can keep going. I also need to make a drag link for the steering, so I order left and right hand taps from speedway. I'll probably just cut down a spare one I have. Hopefully I'll only need one of those taps. One thing I noticed when I mounted the wheels on the new axle is that the studs seem short. That has me concerned and I need to look into it and see what's up. I also have a new yoke to convert the 18 to a 1310 on its way. Once I get that installed I can measure in order to get a driveline made. Lots of fun. I'll update as I make progress. Hopefully this week.
     
  6. Aug 18, 2021
    Timber Cruiser

    Timber Cruiser Member

    Oregon
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2018
    Messages:
    79
    I'm still waiting on tools and parts to finish the D30, so I decided to have a little fun while I'm waiting. I put a Dynatrac lift on my wife's JL last year and it uses Fox shocks. Her shocks came with some extra decals, so I squirrelled those away in my tool box when she wasn't looking. I just have the plain old simple kit shocks that came with my procomp lift. They are starting to look dingy and I figured I could put those decals to good use.

    I pulled the procomp decals, washed the shocks, and sanded them with 500 grit sand paper.

    I sprayed them with Steel-it to try and match the shocks on my wife's Jeep. They actually came out pretty close.

    After letting them dry I added the decals

    I got them in place and just need to go torque them all down. I think they turned out pretty good. They should hold me over until I'm ready for a real shock update.
     
  7. Oct 19, 2021
    Timber Cruiser

    Timber Cruiser Member

    Oregon
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2018
    Messages:
    79
    Just an update on the D30 switch. I've been busy working on building my son a 65 Mustang, so the CJ has been sitting in the garage waiting for me to get back to it. So last week I got the brakes and steering drag link all made up and put together. I noticed that the shop that rebuilt it had not preloaded the ball joints so I tore the axle all the way down and went through everything. When I was building it back up I noticed that the ball joints were very stiff. To the point I couldn't move them by hand. I also thought it was odd that the zerk grease point was on the bottom of the upper ball joint and that it had a place for a snap ring. I've only seen that on lower ball joints. That started setting of alarm bells in my head that something was not right. After preloading the ball joints and following the torque sequence, it was very difficult to turn the knuckle. At this point I broke it back down and went through the process again to make sure I hadn't missed anything. Again I had the same results on both sides. I did a pull test and found it was breaking away at 63#s. I knew this was way high, but though that maybe once greased up and with the weight on the Jeep it might change. Wishful thinking. So I continued on. The shop used some cheep wheel bearings, so I replaced them with a set of new Timkens. Got everything together, aligned, and went for a test ride. It was not good. The Jeep was wondering so badly that I only made it a block before deciding to return home. Since I knew I had a ball joint problem, I went ahead and ordered a set of Moog replacements. After tearing down the axle again, and pressing out the old new ball joints, I noticed several things. The first being that the upper ball joint was incorrect. I pulled out my calipers and found that it was exactly the same as the lower. I also noticed that the lower ball joint was not pressed all the way in because it was too large of dimeter to allow it to fully recess. I couldn't find any markings on the ball joints, so I have no idea who manufactured them. Here is a photo with the old ball joints still installed:

    Anyway the new Moogs arrived and you could visually see a size difference. Even the castle nut was larger. I wish I would have a grabbed a photo of them next to each other. The new ball joints went in with no problems, and the pull test this time on both sides was only 18#s. After getting it back together, I took it for another test run. this time it drove perfect. The steering returns to center and no more wondering. Now I need to install the new yoke on the transfer case and measure for a new driveline. Almost done. After seeing the quality of the shops work, I think I'm going to pull the diff cover and give everything a close inspection. Fingers crossed that everything is right.
     
    Ol Fogie, Dne007 and Fireball like this.
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