My CJ2A Is Not Happy

My '47 L134 had started backfiring through the carb and it progressively worsened, unbenounced to me (it's my 16 year old's daily driver) it also began running so rough that it would not idle without the choke. So I started with a rebuild on the WO carb with no improvements. I then moved to electrical finding that the distributor had some issues. Bought a rebuilt unit from Walck's with points and condenser included. I added new plugs, wires and threw in a fuel filter for good measure. She ran like a champ, better than ever, smooth as butter. My 14 year old and I were returning home from our 45 minutes sucessful test drive and I noticed a slight miss fire as we were coming down our street in second gear? I drove passed our driveway to continue on to find it started running extremely rough. Parked it, came back a couple of hours later scratching my head. Barely idle now from cold start. Did a quickie compression test suspecting possible valve trouble, #1=100psi, #2=100psi, #3=95psi, #4=97psi. Other than re-gapping the points and going through the static timing process again (oil pump not indexed to factory specs), not sure where to go from here.
Any ideas? It was running better than ever after the full tune up, only to suddenly struggle to idle and missing? Timing light show an intermittent miss as well?

I appreciate any help, the suggestion box is open?

 

I would check out the coil.

 

yep id swap out the coil. I had a few go bad on mine. they overheat when the key accidently gets left on and that will damage it. atlest the way mine is wired

 

Do coils just up and die or do they progressively get worse until the ignition system eventually get no spark?

 

Yes...

But also I'd check the point setting and clean them again, just in case. Did you give the distributor cam lobes a hint of lube, so the heel doesn't wear down and alter the gap?

 

Did you check the inside of the cap for corrosion?

 

Sounds electrical to me. Has it been converted to 12 volt. If so look for a ballast resister and make sure it is dropping the voltage to the coil to about 6 volts or use a 12 volt coil and check for about 8 to 9 volts.
Dave

 

My LP tractor did this to me. Started running terribly. Did ignition tune up: plugs, points, condenser, coil. Still ran bad. Rebuilt converter and mixer. Still ran bad. Took valve cover off and found broken rocker and dropped valve. Pulled head and R&R'd. Put it back together and it fired right up. Ran great idling. Got on it and pulled out of the shed running well. Went about another 75 feet and started bogging down like running out of fuel. Then just stopped. Rebuilt mixer again, rebuilt converter again, checked pressures, shut off valves, etc. Pulled coil wire and good spark to ground but it just wouldn't run. Pulled wire off plug and put old plug in it grounded to head. Cranked. And cranked. Nothing. Finally found a rotor that had failed through the middle and was going to ground and I think the condenser was whacked again. Put new rotor on and old condenser and it ran great!
Long story short, just because ignition components were new doesn't meant that one of them or a peripheral component failed.

 

"just because ignition components were new doesn't meant that one of them or a peripheral component failed."

x2

 

Got it finally. The portion of the points that help load the pressure which is secure with the condenser plate was not inserted therefore it was grounding out on the inside of the distributor body. Chalk it up to stupidity.

I appreciate everyone help immensely.