Muzikp's Sometimes Driveable Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Muzikp, Aug 11, 2017.

  1. Nov 21, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Sponsor Sponsor

    Sacramento Ca.
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    Now I feel like it's going to slosh front to back also. By the time I fill this thing with baffles it will hold 8 gallons :susp:
     
  2. Nov 21, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

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    You might consider on your baffles to leave tangs in the top section that would go through your roof and get welded from the outside once you drop your roof on.
     
  3. Nov 21, 2017
    Muzikp

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    Hmmm, I like that idea. Although my baffles can be welded all the way up the sides so I don't think they will go anywhere, but your idea would make the top more secure and not rattle on the baffles. I wonder how hard it would be to weld all the inside without the back on, then weld the top on, spot weld the baffles along the top from the open back, then weld the back on.

    I'm trying to avoid lining up a bunch of slots on the top with the baffles, and I hate making slots in things.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2017
  4. Nov 21, 2017
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    I'd just drill a few holes above (in line with) the baffles, then catch the baffle material with the weld when you fill the hole.
     
  5. Nov 21, 2017
    Muzikp

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    Duh! I was totally over thinking that.
     
  6. Nov 21, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    That's a good method to attach an internal plate like the baffle but if the baffle is thin material it will probably melt away from the hole instead of attaching itself to the outer plate.

    Tarry99's method is the ultimate way to do it.
    Can also be done by making the baffle higher than the sides half the thickness of the top plate, and putting the top plates on in separate pieces in between each baffle.
    Effectively it becomes a T joint.

    When I have done this sort of thing I make the baffles with a bend at the top, say a 3/4" wide flange, so it gives a flat surface to weld through the outer plate holes.

    Also helps if the hole is at least 1/2" diameter or bigger is better for aluminium, otherwise the weld tends to pool on the outside face of the plate and penetration of the weld to the baffle can suffer.

    HTH.
     
  7. Nov 21, 2017
    TIm E

    TIm E Sponsor Sponsor

    NW Arkansas
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    How about a diagonal baffle in each of the under-seat sections? Should minimize movement in both directions. I'm no baffleologist, but just a thought.
     
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  8. Nov 21, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

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    I assume your friend is going to TIG these? Getting in there with the proper torch is possible , but feeding filler rod and being so tight both in height and distance away from the hood / eyes is in my opinion not anything that I would feel comfortable doing.........................

    Better make sure that aluminum you have chosen is weldable as not all grades are or easily welded ...........Normally I use a 50 or 60 series aluminum with the 50 being a little better if there is forming to do...........also that material needs to be dead clean.......both inside and out in the weld zone......with no corrosion. Normally a light sanding with and air sander works followed up with some form of spray or wipe on and rinse aluminum welding products.
     
  9. Nov 22, 2017
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Member

    Louisville, Ky
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    I am going to throw this out there, see what you think. With the tank running the width of the Jeep, if you driveing on the side of a hill and the driver side is the high side. All the gas will move/run to the right. With the tank being the width of the Jeep, I would say that at less than a half tank of gas, where the pick up will be will be dry, on the angle. You said you are putting a sump in but at the angle you will lose fuel out of there too. I am just thinking this out, a cardboard mock up will show a lot.
     
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  10. Nov 22, 2017
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. Sponsor

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    I had a 63 scout with dual tanks L/R side of rig with a "T" or "Y" valve to connect both tanks to the fuel pump inlet. If you got on a sidehill for a long spell with low fuel then you would be sucking air from the up-hill tank. You had to shift the valve to the tank with fuel covering the pick-up tube to continue driving.
     
  11. Nov 22, 2017
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Member

    Cottonwood, Ca
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    This is what I have been thinking. If it were me, I would put a solid bulkhead in the middle and make it into two separate tanks with a filler on each side. Just my thought.
     
  12. Nov 22, 2017
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

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    My '64 Ford dump truck has what is essentially the same tank, but is upright behind the seat. The pickup is just a tube out of the bottom of the left corner of the tank. I've run that in all kinds of angles for extended times, and I've never had an issue with gas starvation. I rarely have more than half tank of fuel, because like a jeep, it just leaks out of the filler neck on a side hill.

    I think you guys are overthinking it. Gasoline is a liquid that will be moving and sloshing, constantly refilling the sump, even at an angle. How often are you on a smooth severe angle, and on the pedal hard enough to use copious amounts of fuel? You'd have to empty the bowl, the fuel line, and the sump before it was refilled with a small wave of sloshed fuel.

    Just my $.02.
     
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  13. Nov 22, 2017
    TIm E

    TIm E Sponsor Sponsor

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    Agree. If you notice in the photos there is a small 1" or so hole marked as "to sump". If the mentioned 6" sump is centered over this hole, even the most severe angles in any direction, the sump would always stay at least 3/4 full...plenty of fuel for the scenarios I can think of.

    Nice work, looking forward to seeing how it turns out. May just have to get some aluminum sheet and fire up the TIG myself here soon!
     
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  14. Nov 22, 2017
    Muzikp

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    Sacramento Ca.
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    This is exactly my thought, the sump sorta has a lid since the sump is much larger than those small holes. I drew my tank in CAD, at 45 degrees any direction the sump can't drain empty, it partially drains but still plenty of gas in it. (y)
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2017
  15. Nov 22, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Sponsor Sponsor

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    So I'm still making baffles

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I need to do a lot of sanding and acetone cleaning and hopefully can get this all tacked together on Friday. This aluminum ha been kicking around for a while and it's not real clean so it will be some work to get it clean enough to TIG weld it.
     
  16. Nov 22, 2017
    baldjosh

    baldjosh Sponsor Sponsor

    pacific north west
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    awesome, i love following your thread, i cant wait to be at this point in my build and look back for inspiration like this. keep it up!
     
  17. Nov 22, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Sponsor Sponsor

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    I gave this some thought initially and decided a separate filler on each side is something I really want to avoid. I don't want to cut a filler hole in the other side of the body, and I don't want an additional electric pump, fuel line, valve and switch etc. I want it to operate as simple as the existing tank does, less parts to fail. I also feel like it would be difficult to fill both sides, you would have to turn the Jeep around at the gas station to access the other tank with the gas pump nozzle. All that led to me to the sump with a small hole on the top that would hold gas for a bit at an angle.

    If it doesn't work out, you guys will be the second ones to know :D.
     
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  18. Nov 22, 2017
    cadwelder

    cadwelder Member

    Milton KY
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    Muzikp, I like you're tank concept and design. Fuel starvation shouldn't be an issue and the baffles are a good idea. The only thing I would be concerned about is that tank will be stiff, as far twisting goes, much stiffer than a Jeep frame or body. This should be considered when mounting it in the vehicle; you may need to allow it to "float" somewhat, especially if the Jeep will be taken offroad. Just my $0.02.
     
  19. Nov 22, 2017
    TIm E

    TIm E Sponsor Sponsor

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    I think someone is about to get real good at TIG welding aluminum.
     
  20. Nov 22, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Sponsor Sponsor

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    I agree and I've given this a lot of thought, last thing I want is it cracking at welds. At this point I'm planning on mounting it on polyurethane bushings, kind of like the ones made for mounting the tub. That should allow for some flex and twist and reduce the stress. Fortunately my frame is fully boxed and the task right after this tank is to tie the roll cage into the frame which should reduce twisting even more. I'm interested to hear others thoughts on this as well. Thanks.
     

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