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more power from f-head???

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by oldiejeep, May 9, 2008.

  1. May 13, 2008
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    9,221
    :iagree: I've seen a couple.
     
  2. May 13, 2008
    Brian P

    Brian P Member

    Clarkdale Arizona
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2007
    Messages:
    650
    I have seen a couple also, They are not easy to come by. Wish I knew where they were all hiding :)
     
  3. May 15, 2008
    Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    Dunlap, CA
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
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    511
    Here's a start to the quest of finding a lead.
    So far it looks like DELCO REMY 1110255 and AUTO-LITE IAT distribs had vacuum and were put in everything but CJ's ...
     
  4. May 15, 2008
    Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    Dunlap, CA
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
    Messages:
    511
    Here's a direct ref from the CJ3B site. Autolite IAT 4405.

    Otherwise, an interesting article too ... explains why I had to modify the oiler and die grind the advance slot on my IAY 4401 :rofl:
     
  5. May 15, 2008
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    4,350
    907097 REBUILT AUTO-LITE IAT
    DISTRIBUTOR WITH
    VACUUM ADVANCE F-4-134 VJ/SW/PU
    FC-150 $ 195.00



    Looks like a deal for $195:)
     
  6. May 20, 2008
    Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    Dunlap, CA
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
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    511


    This post is to correct my original statement. I now agree with Brian and I am actually running 8° BTDC, not 15°.
    I couldn't believe that he and I were so far apart in this regard so, I double checked. After some more cleaning of the crank pully, I found that I had originally misidentified the timing mark.
    I also agree, now, that above 10° power would decrease.
    Very glad we can agree on the objective/measurable stuff :)
     
  7. May 20, 2008
    Brian P

    Brian P Member

    Clarkdale Arizona
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2007
    Messages:
    650
    Homebrew my friend, I am glad the information helped :tea:.That works both ways, I have enjoyed learning allot from everyone on this site. Sharing information and resources while looking out for each other like family is what makes this a great site :)
     
  8. Jun 1, 2008
    Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    Dunlap, CA
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
    Messages:
    511
    Just minor things to report after finally getting the Weber 32/36 on the road. I have no aircleaner for it so testing is done for now.

    I bought the carb "new" for $250 (including shipping), not the kit (cheapest I could find the kit for was $360 at Rusty's).

    Just "guts" reactions:
    Once gas filled the bowl, the Weber fired and idled easily at factory idle mix setting (Note: a MSD 6 box is known for firing ANYTHING, so no big deal there).
    Better deep bottom end.
    More work accomplished at the same or higher manifold vacuum as the Carter.
    Shift point at 4K rpm seems to come faster at same or higher man. vac.
    Opening the secondary seems to produce more acceleration, pulling a grade in 3rd, than the Carter. But not a big deal.
    Emission smell under acceleration seems noticably less. Upon deceleration, still poor.
    The "bark" out of the turbo muffler, under power, seems to be mitigated or gone.

    The "kit" may be really good. Just buying the carb and fabbing everything is tedious.

    If I had a brand new Carter YF, I do not know if there would be any difference in performance. Mine works very good, but ain't new.

    As has been stated before, all of the mods I have made have taken an antique tractor motor to be an unembarissingly capable Jeep, unlike what it was before the mods.

    I won't be adding the Clifford header, and won't get into why here.

    If I ever need to rebuild the motor, I may consider the Clifford cam.

    I had no expectations otherwise, but, will state that any mods to the f134 will not produce the performance of an artificially aspirated f134, nor that of a V8 or V6.

    :) :beer:
     
  9. Jun 8, 2008
    Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    Dunlap, CA
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
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    511
    Testing is done now. As I described before, excellent performance.

    Has any of this thread hit the tech section yet? I simply haven't had time to check.
     
  10. Jul 4, 2008
    JeepPower

    JeepPower Hopeless Gearhead

    Fort Mill, SC
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2002
    Messages:
    289
    diggin up the dead here...

    I posted this on Willys Tech as well...

    It looks like I'm going to need to pull the head (consistent bubbles in the coolant overflow at idle). I figure it will need to be flattened (I'v e overheated it a few times) and while it is on the head mill, why not 'wedge shave' it to increase the compression a little.

    Has anyone heard or had experience with performance shaving a F-head's head? I know I read a little about it-- the folks that modify the F-head for mud racing seem to shave the heads...
     
  11. Jul 4, 2008
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
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    4,350
    Just watch the exhaust valve clearance
     
  12. Jul 4, 2008
    1968Jeep

    1968Jeep Member

    St.Albert,...
    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2003
    Messages:
    226
    I spoke with the tech guy at Clifford Performance - Shaving the cylinder head 60 thousandths is what he highly recommended - From what he said, the addition of the Weber 32/36, their re-ground camshaft, and the Clifford Header, it is supposed to roughly triple the bottom end performance (torque). I have a spare camshaft that I am sending down to them, and I also have the Weber K553 kit on order.......I'll post when I have it assembled.....
     
  13. Jul 4, 2008
    JeepPower

    JeepPower Hopeless Gearhead

    Fort Mill, SC
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2002
    Messages:
    289
    60 thou' straight across(?)... OK.

    I know I've seen diagrams of heads shaved on an angle, where more is taken off one edge than the other. I guess this was done to make sure the valves clear...
     
  14. Jul 19, 2008
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2006
    Messages:
    2,793
    What about 1.6 or 1.7 ratio rocker arms? I know that these would only be the intake, but has any one tried this(if any are even available) to see if performance improves?:stout:
     
  15. Jul 19, 2008
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2006
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    2,793
    Re: more power to f-head???

    Champion J8C
    AC 44
    Autolite 458 (294)
    Bosch W8EC
    Denso W16SU
    Prestolite 14-5
    SplitFire SF29E
    NGK B6S
    Motorcraft A5

    Don't know about referencing the msd but these are all the cross referenced plugs for the FHead.
     
  16. Sep 11, 2009
    JeepPower

    JeepPower Hopeless Gearhead

    Fort Mill, SC
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2002
    Messages:
    289

    how did this turn out?

    I did shave mine-- about .020 It definitely gives it more power! :) I'm thinking of having more shaved off now that it will be apart.

    I'm rebuilding a bottom end (Block, pistons, crank & rods) -- that cracked block is taking it's toll-- misfires & steams like crazy until it blows all the anti-freeze out. This is my daily driver, too-- yikes!

    I had the old block & head 'ported' when they were rebuilt years ago-- the exhaust got most of the attention. The 'risers' around the exhaust valve guides were removed and the ports were made the same size all the way through (they tend to neck down near the manifold surface). Well, I wanted to be sure the new engine has as much ooph as the old one, so I matched the porting job as well as I could...

    some cellphone pics:

    The left side is done, the right side is stock.
    [​IMG]

    looking from the manifold-- again, left is done, right is stock-- see the extra material to the right side of the port.
    [​IMG]


    The one thing I'm not sure of is having it bored. The 'running' engine was bored .030" over (it was already bored .010 over & had a lot of wear on that rebuild)). This new block is in good shape (only had 35K on it) and just needed a hone. I keep wondering how much 'oomph' that .030 gave me... I still have to order pistons, so am wondering if it is worth the extra $$ to bore it...
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2009
  17. Sep 11, 2009
    Lifesgoodhere

    Lifesgoodhere Like 6 Jeeps isn't enough

    Staunton, Virginia
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2009
    Messages:
    265
    careful got to get to close to those exhaust valve guides, I oped to not port my exhaust valves because it would compromise the strength of the guides. I wne over the top on the head.

    My build thread can be found here.>>

    http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67973

    cheers and good luck with yours!
     
  18. Sep 14, 2009
    jasonjp62

    jasonjp62 Member

    Pennsboro WV.
    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2009
    Messages:
    799
    What is the stock dimension's of the head. I know mine has been shaved but don't know how much.
     
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