MD Juan Tub Kit 1969 CJ5 4CLY (7/2016)

End of another great JEEP WEEK!

Today we focused on the turn signal wiring and got it nailed down. The turn signal switch did indeed have the flasher built in and the single flasher relay connected to it handled both the turn signal and the flasher. And since this turn signal flasher is working, that makes the other flasher switch redundant ... hmmmm, what to do with that extra hole? USB port?

That wrapped up 98% of the dash wiring. I say 98% because while the wiper switch is installed, I don't know which wiper wires go into which contact; I've misplaced the wiring diagram. It's a Crown aftermarket motor. And we have yet to install the washer bag and motor. The washer push button is (ugly) installed on the dash next to the wiper switch. I need two wires for that.... plus the (untested) fuel level sensor line... otherwise... DONE!



A very close examination will find an added slip-on style terminal strip just below the flasher relay. Since the heater is non standard, I taped its wiring diagram to the back of the dash. I'll do the same with the wiper wiring... once I find it. The 5 wiring harnesses are in order from left to right: (1) front lights, horn, back-up lights, extra ground (2) rear lighting, stop lights, (3) turn signal, (4) engine wiring pyramid connector, (5) heater wiring. Missing are the washer leads. You can see the extra flasher below and between the heater control and the ignition (center).

One thing I remain concerned about is the lack of support and strain relief for the multiple harnesses... they all simply hang on their connections... hmmmm. 'Seems like a bad idea.

And Joe has the rest of the car ready for the dash wiring! If you don't envy me for having a brother like Joe, then you haven't been paying close enough attention.



One of you eagle eye guys will pick up the Joe's placement of the horns inside the grill hollow. He is concerned one would interfere with the fresh air duct along the left fender. And I finally straightened the cowl to grill support rods.

I'm reminded we have to fab a gasket for the wiring harness penetration in the firewall... I have the clam shell but not the rubber... 'Hard to believe all those wires and the Throttle/Choke cables all fit through that one hole!'



We were unable to get our transmission-mounted backup switch working despite filing the mating surface down again today. In fact Joe was able to get the threaded switch insert to stick into the transmission enough to bind with the internal shift rod (too much). Still it would not depress the contact ball enough to trip consistently. NAPA carries the p/n suggested (above) by someone in earlyCJ5.com. I'm holding off just in case anyone here has used any of those back-up switch p/n's ...and might let me know I can rely on them.

So, next week... lets see.... we need to get the cabin duct work in before the dash goes in. And, we have to get the fresh air enclosure built around the open Summit heater. Ventilation has got to be two weeks all by it self! And the windshield needs to go in to mount the wiper motor and finish that wiring. And the engine leaks should be fixed and the engine intake air cleaner needs to be installed before we install the battery and run the engine again. And then we need to properly test everything as a finished unit.

Now... where did I store that ignition key!?!

Then I think we'll get the cab finished, including the steering wheel and horn switch... and then the hood (I still have to find an appropriate safety latch for the hood). Then a bit more hardware (rear bow sockets, spare tire carrier, mirrors. footman loops, tailgate chain & cover...), ...then touch up paint... then decals!!

I think we should make the s/n tag the very last thing we put on

Boy... we really ARE getting close! I'll have to check the pink slip to see when I hit my first year of Jeep ownership. I think I bought it in March...

Who is running the "MDJ tub/ NAVY Tribute CJ5 JEEP build" finish-date pool? (I stopped guessing out loud; Joe always laughs at how far off I am.) (...early April...)

 

'Still fighting this backup switch question...

I looked on line to see what differentiates one p/n switch from the other. Crown's catalog shows a distribution of backup switch p/n's like this, but (as usual) with zero technical info (thread size, etc)

BACKUP LAMP SWITCHES, MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Years Vehicle Comments Replaces PART #
76/86 CJ w/ T18 J5350061
80/81 CJ w/ T176, T177 J5751207
82/86 CJ w/ T4, T5, SR4 J8134068
87/90 YJ w/ BA10/5 53004522
87/95 YJ w/ AX4, AX5, AX15 83500629
97/02 TJ w/ AX-5, AX-15 83500629
76/86 SJ w/ T18 J5350061
81/90 SJ w/ T176, T177 J5751207
86 SJ w/ T5 J8134068
84/86 XJ, MJ w/ T4, T5, SR4 J8134068
84/99 XJ, MJ w/ AX4, AX5, AX15 83500629
93/98 ZJ, ZG w/ AX15 83500629

...i.e. ...nothing for 1969, T90

For example, Rockauto offers a variety of p/n's for backup switches from 1974 forward, including J5350061 (like above) and DR429 (as suggested by someone in earlycj5.com, further above).

Advanced Adaptors says T90 was used until 1971.I see on the NOVAK site the T90 was never joined to the AMC engines.

So I guess no one offers a backup switch for the T90 transmission.

 

Does anyone know the correct position of the windshield wiper sprayer nozzle(s)?

Mine didn't have them and I want to add them in this build.

Thanks.

 

I have a 70 with a manual pump that you pull out of the dash to make it spray. The nozzle is centered on the cowl, 3" from the back of the hood. It looks like this:


This is the same sprayer nozzle that is on my 78 DJ5F. I suspect you can find it on any postal jeep if you are looking for original. The nut on the back is hard to get to over the F model heater. It is located much further back than the 70 DJ. In looking at the two sprayers on each side they can be aimed. The last wiper switch i bought activated the washer by pushing the switch. Sorry I don't have the part number.


"And since this turn signal flasher is working, that makes the other flasher switch redundant ... hmmmm, what to do with that extra hole? USB port?"

Since you can't get the reverse switch to work you might put the factory type red switch in that position to run your back up lights. When you pull it the red switch would light up so you wouldn't forget you have the reverse lights on. They would also work as courtesy lights in the rear if you needed them. For this you would probably not key that circuit.

I think you will find that once the dash is back in place that the wires won't be much of a pull on the back of the devices. The distance between the dash and the wiring hole is not very far. wires are supported at the device and at the fire wall. If you choose to leave extra wire that can be folded back on itself and cable tied to itself and cable tied. The key to neat wiring is to form it and tie it as you go starting at the switch and working toward the load. As you pass other switches you can tie them in and form them along the wiring path. Just my $0.02.

You are doing a great job. You are almost there.

 

Thanks for the very rapid response. I'm glad you are enjoying the build.

I ended up buying two different transmission mounted backup switches from Quadratec (today)... neither says it will fit the T90, but I'm determined to try to get an an automatic backup light.

I'll look for that original single post dual sprayer nozzle, but even if I don't find one, I'll still adopt the 3" back from the hood positioning.

If my wiper switch activates the washer pump that will be a pleasant surprise... Oh... but then I'll have another blank hole... ughhhh!

Edit: the wiper switch I have has three contacts: (1) Hi (2) Low (3) Park

And we tested it for a washer pump function... nada. The little (ugly) push button has to stay. But I "painted" it with a "Sharpie" pen so at least it isn't red any more.

And thanks for your $0.02. It's worth more than that to us.

 

Monday, we started working on heating vents. I got some semi rigid dryer vent tube type duct pieces from LOWE'S and they fit the Summitt nozzles perfectly where they project into the cab. One will point about straight out under the dash. The second turns up and lays against the cowl top.

I fabricated two dampers in a 3"x1-1/2" plastic "T", one for the defroster, one for my wife's heat vent. That will also mount under the cowl top.

We have to wait a day for the paint to dry before installation.

Also:



Joe did some detail work.

Later, Joe worked on the battery tray... it needed some additional bracket work we missed earlier.

And we started mocking up a fresh air duct enclosure for the engine side of the Summit heater.



Finally, we prepped all the glass (windshield and mirrors) for a trip to Ohio where Joe has a friend who does auto glass and mirrors. Joe drove them over Wednesday (today) so we can install the windshield, wiper motor, sprayer, etc on Thursday (tomorrow).

And we called it a day.

 

This has been a great thread and valuable source of information. Beautiful work you have both done here.

I have a question for you. Did you have to source any of those grille welting(sp?) clips? I believe to have found the hood welting through Walck's, but have not found the clips.

Looks really nice, gentlemen!

 

Thanks for letting us know!

We got the fabric grill edge protector (whatever it's called) at the Hershey Park (Pennsylvania) classic car show last summer. There were perhaps 1000+ vendors with stalls in about every spot in their giant paved parking lot.

Joe will likely remember the name of the company with the welt material (spell check will not let me put in the word you used...grrr) I'll text Joe and ask him to jump in and tell you. We also got tarred fabric tubes for the wiring harness, bullet tube wire connectors, and a few other incidentals there.

There was not any kind of a Jeep focus but they had a lot of general stuff for vintage builds.

I did not get the welt retainer clips at Hershey; the Jeep still had them (but no fabric welt!) when I bought it last summer.

'Sorry...

...But the guy who sold us the welt may have the clips! ...or Joe might have some ideas where to try... I remember Joe was already familiar with the clips before we started messing with them... he's seen them before.

P.S. I see you are from Pgh. We are here too.

 

The clips may possibly be purchased at " Restoration Specialties" in Windber PA. Near Johnstown. They carry thousands of parts and restoration supplies. ( an invaluable source) Joe

 

They still make these...........I got a bunch in a bag around here somewhere that I bought years back.............If you strike out I'll look for them.

 

More info on Restoration specialties phone number is 814-467-9842 . the part you are looking for are called " wire moulding clips " . www.restorationspecialties.com . Around $1.15 each. I am sure they will send you a catalog if you ask. Joe

 

look around page 120 on the PDF on line

 

We had a three steps forward then one step backward day today. Joe's auto glass friend got our mirrors done (THANKS!!) but couldn't fit our glass into the previously trimmed MDJ windshield frame... more trimming needed. He also let us know our old gasket was too stiff and he had a replacement for us.

So, "JEEP DAY-Wednesday" is going to begin with a repeat of the grinding photo above and then the installation of the windshield glass. (I promise to wear better eye protection next time.)

The windshield gasket has a deep "V" molded into it to make it less stiff during installation. After installation, a second gasket piece (an arrowhead shape matching the "V" shape in the first piece) is pressed into the open "V" (with a special tool) to stiffen the installed gasket again. Joe's friend loaned us that tool so we can finish the job at home. Nice, huh!!

 

Thanks Wirework, Navy Joe Ret. and Tarry99.

I'm going to check out restoration specialties to see what they have.

Tarry99 - I appreciate the offer of the clips and will keep it in mind.

P.P.S - Wirework - I'm south of the 'burgh in Washington County. By Cal U.

 

If it's a JEEP DAY, it's going to be a great day... so... today was a great day!

As predicted we got the windshield out of the frame (they got it only part way in) and then I grabbed Joe's trusty die grinder. We duplicated the original inside flange edge removal process, but in stead of following a tracing of the windshield glass, this time I removed just the thickness of the grinding disk (about 1/8th"). Here is a shot of Joe cleaning up the finished cut with a file. With all the handling, it got rather dinged and scuffed so we had to do a lot of paint touchup.

Joe noticed MDJ had not painted the inside of the wiper mechanism chamber and insisted that we take it all back apart and paint it. So he got a metal rod, wire tied a small rag to it, dipped it in the paint and ran it back and forth until he was satisfied.

We had intended to finish the windshield install and wrap up the wiring today, but the windshield glass gets a lot of silicone oil to lubricate the install. Joe thought that might be bad for the fresh paint so we will wait until Friday.

I took another step with the vent dampers I made on Monday.





You can see a defrost damper, and a passenger vent damper are fabricated into this fitting.

Ok... so, I aligned and inserted the semi rigid defrost and passenger supply duct into the 3" plastic pipe fitting then filled the joint with 100% silicone caulk to bond it in place. It needs to set up for a few days. Friday i'll bond in the passenger delivery duct and that should finish it. A new plastic defrost vent shape is in transit. I had to use a 2" hole saw to fit the last piece into my damper fitting branch... but I got that done too. I 'll show the finished assembly at installation, probably Monday.

I continued to mock up the fresh air shroud for the Summit heater. It's not looking good for the stock Jeep shroud we were given... the Summit takes up most of the space and only a custom box is going to work. We'll keep it just a bit longer to be sure, then clean it up as a "thank you" before we return it.

I pretty much finished a cardboard shroud and will take it to TechShop to see if I can fab one from steel this weekend. Joe can weld it next week if I do.

Then we shifted to the radiator. Joe's experienced neighbor wasn't available so Joe grabbed a portable bottle torch, some flux and some solder, and we went to work fixing the radiator leak.

It turns out the original fill nozzle had been crushed in, which caused a crack where it meets the inlet header tank at the top of the radiator, (above the finned tube section.) Joe grabbed a slide hammer, inserted an 'L' shape into the fill port, hooked the "L" under the tank top immediately adjacent to the fill nozzle, gave it a few wacks, while rotating the "L" around the base of the fill nozzle, and in less than a minute the collapsed section was back where it belonged.

Then he heated the joint, fluxed it, and soldered it all the way around. To test the joint, we had to tie the upper and lower hoses together with a small pipe and pipe clamps. Joe has a radiator tester (naturally) which attaches to a closed coolant system via a modified fill cap. He pumped it up to 15 psig and... success! No leaks!

My assignment was to clean it up and paint it.



I thought to sneak it into the engine compartment like this but got caught... Joe said, "no way"!



Here she is, showing her age a bit, but hopefully still holding her own after almost 50 years.

Joe then finished the battery install and then worked on the aftermarket steps.

The steps are obviously made for the smaller CJ's with the tapered frames because the step fits at an angle to its frame support. Since the CJ5 frame is parallel to the side, we had to drill a few more holes in the frame support bracket to get them straight. We were still on them as the daylight started to fade, so we called it a day

 

Today we got to try two switches on the transmission to replace our broken back-up switch.



I'll have to look up the p/n's and get them in here... it matters.

And the winner is:



Here it is installed on the transmission.

The Normally Open (NO) switch is the one we needed; its the one with the screws. (The one with the slotted pins is Normally Closed (NC) which powers the lights all the time...bi believe it is also called a "neutral" switch, but don't really know for sure.) So we replaced our stock wiring connector with crimp-on eyelets and this is what we got:



We have backup lights again!

Then we installed the windshield into the frame ....but... it was bulging the gasket to the rear so we tried to push it down to center it back in the frame. And we got this:



...a broken windshield. This is after we had already trimmed another 1/8" off the retaining flange all the way around.

I said a bad word.

So, we ordered a new stock windshield. This time we were determined to get a new windshield to fit. We measured the old windshield maximum width and maximum height and prepared to trim the MDJ windshield frame again... bad news... if we trimmed the MDJ flange to match the stock frame we would not have enough flange left in the MDJ frame to fully engage the gasket and it wouldn't reliably hold the glass.

So we cancelled our order for stock CJ5 windshield glass and made arrangements to get a custom windshield cut to match our current MDJ frame (already trimmed twice).

Then I shifted my attention back to the fresh air inlet box:



I disassembled my cardboard mockup and traced it on a sheet of steel, and cut out the tracing:



I got it all reassembled, screwed together, sealed, and painted. Monday it should be ready to install. If it is acceptable, I"ll take some pictures... otherwise I'll probably start it over.

We couldn't finish the windshield, so we couldn't finish the wiring, so Joe looked at some things we could do.

We took another look at the engine crack and its tiny coolant leak... one drop in 4 hours... and we decided to simply live with it.

The replacement rocker arm cover gasket hasn't arrived yet so we have to wait to fix its oil leak.

Joe installed the new plastic defrost vent duct. The second side of my pipe fitting (with the 2 vent dampers) got the second semi rigid metal tube installed, again with silicone sealant. So, it needs a few days to set permanently. We'll get photos of the vent damper assembly on the bench and then installed. And we still have to work out how to attach the push pull cables to the dampers.

Joe had to weld in a nut so the dash could be installed later... the new plastic defrost diverter blocks behind-the-dash access to the center dash atachment nut. The old paper mache diverter is still in good shape but I didn't know that until I already bought a new one. The new one has a larger inlet so I will use the new one.

Then Joe attached the hood:



It looks good from here. You can't see it, but the hood doesn't fit completely square and flat all the way around. The front driver's side hood pull-down latch kicks the rear passenger corner up. I think there is still some adjustment possible by slightly raising the passenger side front fender.... (and then jumping up and down with both feet on top of the hood, to deform it... just kidding). That nice fit we had with the old hood seems to have evaporated... With the latches on, the old hood looks as if it fits a lot like the new MDJ hood did... not too well. We'll work on it a bit before crying foul.

So we should soon be able to finish the all the ventilation ductwork, install the sprayer nozzle, and then install the dash (and all but the wiper motor wiring). Then we can install the steering wheel and horn button, and the washer bag and washer motor.

If we are lucky, next week or the following week, we should get the radiator in, fix the last oil leak, and install the engine inlet air oil bath filter.

And we need to make another trip to Ohio to get the new custom windshield glass installed in its frame.

Once the wiper motor is in, that should completely finish the wiring... which hasn't been completely tested yet (especially all the speedometer functions).

If all that gets done in the next two weeks, we'll still have these things left to do:

Registers to aim ventilation (hot) air into cabin. (I like those on the dash of a Pontiac G6 but hope to bracket them just out of sight under the dash)
Hood safety latch
Frame and body clips on all the wiring
Steering linkage
Front end alignment
Side steps
Spare tire mount
Seat refurbishment
Soft top hardware
Mirrors
Fresh air hose in engine compartment
Touch up painting
Decals and stencils
License plate bracket
S/N tag !!
Pennsylvania antique car registration
Insurance
Test drive it home (20 mi.)
Soft top sewing repair

P.S.
We've started scoping out material for the CJ5 tub-to-trailer project.

So we can use the same wheels and tires as the Jeep, we are looking for 5x5.5 wheel/ bearing hubs from the trailing axle of a front wheel drive vehicle (2wd)... hopefully a hub designed without a spindle. We have an internet list of 5x5.5 wheel vehicles to help in the junk yard search.

We already have a substantial rectangular beam for the trailer's axle, and plenty of material for a frame, and steel sheet for the body/floor repair.

The selection and source for the leaf springs, shackles, and the hitch is up in the air at the moment.

We have years of retirement fun in the backlog!

 

Thanks, Howard.

So the MDJ windshield frame doesn't lose any points for needing custom glass... good to know.

 

I notice that as I get older and older, I can get closer and closer and not be able to tell the difference...

I'm down to about 6' now!