1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Manifold Ports And Plugs

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by FinoCJ, Jan 14, 2017.

  1. Jan 14, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,651
    Hi all,

    making some progress towards getting the engine back in the jeep. The manifold is bolted on to the top of the block and its time to start putting on some of the little things. Wondering how to best put my vacuum port (for heater control hose) as well as an adjacent plug back in. Do I want to use any special kind of thread sealer on these to prevent any vacuum leaks? Or do they just get screwed in until tight?

    Pic of the two on the rear of the manifold from before I tore it all apart.
    [​IMG]

    It also looks like I should replace my coolant outlet nipple that goes to the heater (full of coolant precipitate). Its port is on the driver side rear of the manifold. Again, what the best way to manage any leak concerns when I thread in the new pipe (any thread sealant needed). Same question for where my temp gauge sending unit goes (this is an aftermarket temp gauge that uses the same port the OEM 'idiot' light. Here is pic of the temp sender location to right of carb and just behind the thermostat. Finally, in this pic, you will also see to the left (passenger side rear of the manifold) a manifold bolt with 2 spacers underneath it and a strip of metal on top of the spacers. Does this strip or spacers have any purpose?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2017
    FinoCJ, Jan 14, 2017
    #1
  2. Jan 14, 2017
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    I would use teflon tape on the coolant nipple. You can buy the nipple from Dorman. With the temperature gauge, you need to make sure that the sender has good electrical continuity with the manifold, since it depends on conducting to ground through the sender body. If the temperature gauge is a "mechanical" gauge - looks like what you have in the picture - (actually a bourdon tube, not electric) you are free to use sealant on the fitting. I would guess that the bracket is part of an aftermarket manuall choke kit ... Dorman sells them. often these manifolds have blind holes in them to assist with lifting the engine. Take the bolt out and see if it goes into the manifold passages.
     
    timgr, Jan 14, 2017
    #2
  3. Jan 14, 2017
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2011
    Messages:
    5,421
    my temperature sending unit(electric) is located at rear of manifold . where you say you have a heater hose . my heater hose is on that port behind thermostat housing . vacuum hook up is where you show . as to metal bracket no clue . teflon tape works good
     
    Twin2, Jan 14, 2017
    #3
  4. Jan 14, 2017
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    timgr, Jan 14, 2017
    #4
  5. Jan 15, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,651
    You guys think teflon tape is better than some other smearable sealant from a tube? I have been using a white paste permatex thread sealant for stuff like the D18 rebuild. Probably all about the same...I have both sitting around. Electrical ground for temp guage will have to check.

    As for the metal strip...may have had a use for PO. I dont recall anything using it when I took stuff apart and my pics dont show anything. My manual choke is all on the driver side...so probably another thing to remove and simplify.
     
    FinoCJ, Jan 15, 2017
    #5
  6. Jan 15, 2017
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    752
    i use permatex high temp teflon paste sealant, probably the same stuff you mentioned above. it works with electric sending units. some times teflon tape doesn't let the sender get a good ground so it might not work correctly. i also used paste sealant on the vacum ports because i didnt want to risk having any vacum leaks. the heater hose nipple is a standard size and any auto parts store should have them.
     
    supertrooper, Jan 15, 2017
    #6
  7. Jan 15, 2017
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    Note that the sender pictured above by James is not electric. It's a bourdon tube.
     
    timgr, Jan 15, 2017
    #7
  8. Jan 17, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,651
    Thanks guys - making a bit of progress. The unusual bracket with bolt and spacers seems to have no purpose, but the threaded hole does go through into the air passages so I will find a proper plug and put it in with thread sealant.

    Other questions:

    Also, I have been given a suggestion to connect a small oil line to the top of my timing cover to help with oiling. In the pic this would connect where the black plug is just below (in the pic) the big hole for the distributor shaft. I run a mechanical oil pressure gauge with tubing that connects into the block where the 'idiot' oil light sending unit would go. The suggestion would be to put a T in this hose and run one branch to the timing cover. Good idea...bad idea...?

    You can also see in the pic, a threaded hole in the top of the water pump. My old pump has a similar hole with a plug in it, but this pump came with no plug. Okay to just plug it like the other manifold holes?

    for me at least on my PC - you can click on the pic and it will enlarge
     
    FinoCJ, Jan 17, 2017
    #8
New Posts