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Lost 3rd Gear? T-14

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Buildflycrash, Mar 10, 2020.

  1. Mar 12, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    Here is Novak rebuild kit, for about $160 and a weekend standing at the bench. Yall think these parts would fix my t14? upload_2020-3-12_15-31-55.png
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Mar 12, 2020
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Maybe. JMO don't buy anything more until you have the transmission on the bench and apart. That kit is meant to refresh a worn transmission, not a broken one. Something had to fail to allow that gap between the input and main shaft.
     
  3. Mar 12, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Time to get dirty, I'll clean the garage and have this out by sundown!!
     
  4. Mar 12, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I need to solve another issue if I'm pulling the transmission. I'll start a new thread but Intro the problem here-

    My clutch is very sensitive! There is only about 2" on the pedal from Fully engaged to fully distinguished. You know the pedal has like 10" of travel so there is a lot of searching for the spot where it starts and I sometimes stall on taking off from a stop. :oops:

    I have the Advanced Adapter chain linkage and I have no idea what clutch. I think it was the cheap one from RockAuto. A longer clutch fork would likely help but I don't know how much?? (it needs a lot of help). I have searched the forums with no luck. Hope this is an issue that we've seen/solved in the past.

    So jump on my other thread for input. Thanks
     
  5. Mar 12, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    that is the Novak kit I used for my rebuild - works great - but my transmission was essentially working fine when I took it apart. But as Tim said, you may want to determine what went bad first. No sense buying a rebuild kit if you have some damage to hard parts that are supposed to be re-used.
     
  6. Mar 13, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I made good progress but didn’t get the transmission completely out.
    Basically everything is off and unbolted except the crossmember. Oil is drained. I’ll work on it for an hour or so before I go to work in the morning.

    Just like Tim and Tim said, there is way to much gap in the area of 3rd gear.
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Mar 13, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I made good progress but didn’t get the transmission completely out.
    Basically everything is off and unbolted except the crossmember. Oil is drained. I’ll work on it for an hour or so before I go to work in the morning.

    Just like Tim and Tim said, there is way to much gap in the area of 3rd gear.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Mar 13, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    this may already have been said - but wondering if your front bearing retainer has an issue and is allowing the bearing to move too far forward. May be a bit of a long shot, but the clutch TO bearing slides along on the FRB - so if there is an issue with the FRB, maybe its affecting the TO bearing and your clutch issues?
     
  9. Mar 13, 2020
    TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    NW Arkansas
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    I concur with both FinoCJ and Timgr. Pretty sure you'll find the true problem waiting for you inside the bellhousing, interested to see what it is. Smart money is on the front bearing retainer. To Timgr's point, give it all a good look-over on the bench, you may not need a rebuild at all if components look good...although, with that much play between input/main shaft, I'd have a very close look at the pocket bearings in the end of the input shaft. You can do it! (y)

    Homersdog did a very nice write-up on rebuilding his T-14 not too long ago, you might check out that thread.

    Edit: Save you some searching...

    T14 Rebuild
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2020
    Buildflycrash likes this.
  10. Mar 13, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Did anyone mention that the front bearing retainer might be the problem?

    [​IMG]

    This is exactly why I come here. You guys are the best.

    Any thoughts on my sensitive clutch issue?
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  11. Mar 13, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Just wish ther was an easier way to get there!!

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Mar 13, 2020
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

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    Jw60 deserves credit for being the first to notice the issue... Back on page 1:
     
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  13. Mar 13, 2020
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Maybe a pressure plate problem? Type of pressure plate? I do agree with the longer fork thought, that might be the best bet.
     
  14. Mar 13, 2020
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

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    I agree, definitely a good observation. (y)
     
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  15. Mar 13, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    My reply #27 states to first look at the input bearing, which is obviously held in place by the retainer. Actually, Tim E did the best sleuthing in post #38 showing the bolt not protruding like it should have been!
    I think there could be some correlation of your sensitive clutch and the wobbling throwout retainer.
    -Donny
     
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  16. Mar 13, 2020
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

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    The next question is how did the retainer bolts get loose? Not initially tight enough? I'm grasping to understand how they could have backed out as they did.
     
  17. Mar 13, 2020
    Buildflycrash

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    I’m pretty sure I never put a wrench on them before today so probably loose for the past year /2000 + miles.
     
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  18. Mar 13, 2020
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

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    Oooops! :rolleyes:o_O:)
     
  19. Mar 13, 2020
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    There's no lock washer or such under them normally - just proper torque at installation. You could put a little blue Loctite on them, I'd think. I'd be interested in Nick's advice here.

    This raises the possibility of simply tightening the bolts and putting everything back together. With those bolts loose, the input shaft and bearing can move forward out of the case. As long as the roller bearings in the input gear pocket have not fallen out, you could just tighten the bolts and go.

    I'd also mention that the odds of long term success can often be greatest when you intervene the least. If you dive into a full refurb, there's a chance you'll make a mistake in assembly. Especially if you have not been through one of these transmissions before. I'd inspect the pilot bushing, inspect the clutch disk, replace the throwout bearing, and put it back together.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2020
  20. Mar 13, 2020
    Twin2

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    late to party . as many times . I had mine out . never did the bearing retainer come loose
    if it was me . I would tighten it back up . and as tim said blue loctite
    as to putting it back . didn't see a HF transmission jack
     
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