Looking For Vintage Build Ideas..

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by Sprocket, Sep 30, 2017.

  1. Sep 30, 2017
    Sprocket

    Sprocket New Member

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    Looking for vintage build ideas..

    Hi guys, sitting in a hotel in Seattle, made an out of town trip to grab a second flatty project to combine with my 3b/GPW conglomeration back home. Out of the two I’m taking the best stuff and building one vintage off-roader. Thought I’d pick your brains for vintage offroad cj build ideas.

    What were your builds from the 60’s, 70’s, 80’s? Home spun cut down axles? 283 small block hooked to a T90? Spring over on stock axles? PTO winch and 11.00-15’s? Lol I have a general idea of how this thing will be built but would love to hear more ideas..gimme details!
     
  2. Sep 30, 2017
    SoCalNickG

    SoCalNickG New Member

    Los Angeles, CA.
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    My first car was a 1964 CJ5, purchased in 1973, when I graduated high school. When I bought it it had the F-head 4, 5.38 gears with limited slip and an overdrive. It didn't have enough power when I was 19, 1975 or so. Pulled the 4 cylinder and swapped in a 231 Odd Fire and the heavy fly wheel. After spending way too much time at the local auto parts store I went with: bored 60 over, milled the deck and heads (not a good idea as I could not adjust the valves and burnt exhaust valves). it had an Isky "3/4 race cam", don't remember grind or specs. It had headers, with exhaust dump in front of back wheels. Used the stock 4 cyl. radiator but had it cored out and had the bottom tank modified to move bottom hose to passenger side, it never ran hot. Found the biggest CFM two barrel that would bolt up to the original V6 manifold. The carb was from a 283 V-8, the original oil bath air cleaner worked.
    The motor was strong and had a lot of bottom end grunt. wound out pretty good. With the 5.38's the jeep would jump. If my foot wasn't so heavy it would have been cheaper. It wasn't long before I blew up the overdrive. pulled it. I broke the rear end, all of the bolts holding the ring gear broke the off, had the shop drill and tap with larger bolts. Then I bent the rear drive shaft, replaced it. When i was at college the trany went and I swapped in a Muncie 4 speed that I took from a 66 SS Chevelle I was parting out. The shift levers on the side made for a crazy shift lever. I needed to notch the front/passenger side of the gas tank to clear. I made a shift lever that put placed it about where the original was but with and a long throw.
    I bought it with a set of normal Jeep tires and a set of wide street tires, the wide rims ended up getting 6 ply Tru-Traks.
    I had loads of fun with that Jeep, drove it all over California. Would love that V6 with the 5.38s again.
     
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  3. Sep 30, 2017
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
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    So long as you stay with Genuine Jeep parts you can go for a "Trans-model" jeep.+++
    Trans - model Jeeps use components taken from various Jeep models and vintages.
    The ultimate trans-model build includes only the very best components taken from all LRV and universal models 1941-1985
    Example: The 1941 MB and GPW bronze windshield latches were never improved upon.
    So why not retain all of the early vestages if they were never improved upon ?
    MB rear wheelhouse tool boxes is yet another example of some important early quality components.

    No Jeep parts remain directly interchangeable or easily adaptable after the end of the CJ era. (1985)

    If you install any IH, Chevy, Ford parts etc. then you end up with a "Trans-make" or "Trans-manufacture" jeep. - - -
     
  4. Sep 30, 2017
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    You have to realize that vintage builds suffered from a much smaller selection of available off-the-shelf adapters for much of anything. I think the Muncie M20/M21 transmission adapter may be the first one Advanced Adapters made. When I burned a valve in my F head on the B in 1973, I swapped in a not very mild 327. Everything else was still stock, including the 9" brakes and Ross box, both of which were still in very good condition. It was a lot of fun and during the 2 years it was in that configuration and I didn't break anything.

    3B 2.0 (1975) was a frame off from which it emerged with a 1970 LT 1, Muncie M20, Warn OD, 11" brakes, rear tank, Saginaw steering and fiberglass tub/fenders. That also was a lot of fun on the road (still sporting 5.38's) but that engine left a lot to be desired in the rocks. I guess in hindsight, it was still light years better than the 3.6 in my JK in the rocks but that's another story.

    About 1982 3B 3.0 made an appearance. This time with the current 381 sbc, crossflow radiator, 4 wheel power disc brakes, and I put 4.10 gears in it because that engine will actually run at 500 rpm. Someplace about then it also received Rancho 2.5" lift springs and the Terra Low 3.15:1 gears went in (in a D20 case) the first year they were available. The transmission was also considerably beefed up with Auto Gear Equipment's M22-W. That configuration has largely remained unchanged to the present. Note no spring over in any of these versions. I'm not a fan of spring over in a Jeep, especially with something that isn't anemic under the hood. You can get completely satisfactory wheel hop with spring under----

    I'm not sure if it will warrant a 4.0 when it re-emerges from the current work precipitated by finally making a whole bunch of little pieces out of the D25. It was a case of not "if" but only when and when finally happened, albeit 3 decades later than what I envisioned. It now has Holbrook springs, a very solid D44 front axle with an ARB, and that 3 decade old 381 is about to be replaced with another sbc 60 inches larger.

    I guess my thoughts on a vintage build get back to the question of any build. What are you going to use it for?
     
  5. Oct 1, 2017
    Sprocket

    Sprocket New Member

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    This one will get used for exploring logging/blm roads, mild wheeling, a little sand dunes(nothing extreme, just driving around), and beer runs.. Vintage feel is more important than keeping up with modern wheelers.
     
  6. Oct 1, 2017
    Alan28

    Alan28 Sponsor Sponsor

    Châtillon en...
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    There is no problem to drive with a Willys in good condition, except that it is an old technology, a grand-mother car.
    I have a CJ5 1971 which is still using the old parts in fact, I don't try to compete with new cars!

    Long ago I used to drive a Willy-Hotchkiss (French army model) which was the same as a WWII Jeep made under licence in France.
    I drove it in the South of France, going to the beach at St-Tropez, Cannes, it worked well everywhere in all conditions.
    So with a stock Willys in good condition, you can drive as you want but not trying to make extreme driving, because brakes are not ABS... on wet road it is quite dangerous, mainly with the army tyres.
    On the sand or soft muddy tracks, you can be stuck in your own hole! Unpleasant.
     
  7. Oct 1, 2017
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

    Washington DC.
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    [​IMG] I built my "retro" build CJ2a jeep.

    225 odd fire with offy intake and holly 4 bbl carb. Sm420, D18, D30 up front, D44 with home made FF setup and a new powrlok, 5.38 gears, swinging pedals, power brakes and power steering with rear mount gas tank riding on 4" wrangler springs and a custom 2x4 frame stretched 12".

    I did the entire build myself. It pretty much runs and drives like a wrangler/cj7, but infinitely cooler.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2017
  8. Oct 2, 2017
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

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    Many years back, I have swapped a 283 in front of a T90. You need the longer "J" version front input shaft from a truck or wagon. The small Chevy is harder to find today, but I think its an excellent choice; big improvement in power and torque, but not so much to break things bolted on behind it.
    To me, this is the vintage swap as it was done back in the day. Just upgrade the vintage brakes!
    -Donny
     
  9. Oct 2, 2017
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    It's all relative. Maybe slightly more difficult to find than a decade back but with a production number in excess of 90 million, sbc's remain very easy to obtain. Granted, 350's are what you usually find but I have three 283's, two 307's, and two 327's still lying in the shop.

    What I like about sbc's is the great parts interchangeability that was maintained throughout its nearly 50 year production run. You can build one with just about any bore/stroke you want with stock GM parts. With what is available in the aftermarket, you can build one to exactly the bore/stroke you want. IMO, best big boy TinkerToy or Lego set ever devised. For a stock drivetrain in a vintage Jeep, the 307 would likely be my choice for a carbed version but an EFI 305 would likely work even better.
     
  10. Oct 3, 2017
    Sprocket

    Sprocket New Member

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    I’m really digging the idea of 283 or 307/SM420/D18. My pile’O-parts includes a F head that started and ran with gas down the carb, but compression test showed 127/52/50/120 so depending on what’s wrong with it I may be looking for a repower anyways(crossing my fingers a head gasket fixes it).

    Suspension looks like some kind of aftermarket lift springs, seems to clear 31X11.50’s good.

    I’d like to beef up the stock frame myself, any ideas for that are welcome.
     
  11. Oct 3, 2017
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    As mentioned - we put 283s, 302s, and even some 305s from the Chevy tree. Fords were the 289s and 302s. Believe it or not - the first V6 225 transplant we did was in '74, and that is still my 'option of choice' now days.
     
  12. Oct 19, 2017 at 8:43 AM
    GeorgiaFlattie

    GeorgiaFlattie New Member

    Canton, GA
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    I'm currently building a 3B with a Buick V6/TH350/D18/D44's and think you should too! lol
     

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