Locking Hub Studs

I've been searching for studs to install my new Mile Marker hubs and so far found some 2 1/16" but the problem, if there is one is that the long side is not long enough to bottom out/seat in the the threaded whole. The shank goes down into the whole as well instead of seating on the shoulder. The question is weather or not the stud would hold after cleaning out the threads etc. and running them down to the shank, but not in it with lock tite. The long side of the stud is about 3/16" too short to bottom out unless I run it all the way down past the shank. Then I don't have enough thread to properly screw down the nut. I'm using nylon lock nuts and a flat washer on the other end. What say ya'll? A 2 3/8" or 2 1/2" Stud would work nicely but hadn't found any yet. BTW the diff is D30 '74.

CC

 

I have had a similar issue but a different application sorta. My D30 hubs with Warn premium locking hubs are on my D44 Full float kit I made. The bolts kept loosening and actually broke. I drilled out the hub and tapped it to the next size, then ordered from mc master carr some grade 8 studs that had the proper shoulder and then drilled my locking hubs to that shoulder size. It was a bit of work, but solved my issue with a much greater strength... I also lock tited the studs in with high strength thread locker.

 

On my Jeep, I just got some 3/8 grade 8 all thread and made my own. I couldn’t find the proper length studs anywhere for it.

 

I too used studs and nylock nuts. Secured in the hub with Loctite, after cleaning the holes in the hubs with brake cleaner. Pretty sure I got the hardware from McMaster-Carr.

 

Lot of info here in past threads.

IMHO, high quality studs are needed, very close fitting and well seated. Bolts and other work-arounds tend to repeatedly loosen and wallow the holes.

 

The unthreaded shank SHOULD extend about a 1/4" into the wheel hub. If you look at those hubs, the threads are recessed and that is for a specific reason. This issue is probably more important than bolts versus studs and applies equally to either. If you have the threaded portion of the fastener extending through the wheel hub/lockout hub-drive flange interface, I'm guessing you loose at least 30% of the strength and allow movement along the shear plain as the threaded portion diameter is less than the unthreaded shank (or grip length in bolt parlance). Threaded rod is a really bad choice for this, grade 8 or not.

I ended up making my own studs from long grade 8 bolts (from McMaster-Carr with known providence) for my current 3B project. I used ARP's 170k psi stainless 12 point flange nuts and like Tim, a healthy dose of Loctite. The nuts utilized are just as important as the studs/bolts. They should also be grade 8 or better.

The bottom of the tape is the position of the hub interface.

 

How much material did that leave for the threads in the wheel hub? Even with the 3/8-16 threads there isn't any excess in my opinion and that may well be the weakest link in a well built full floater using D30 hubs. I've considered getting custom hubs made but that takes a rather large chunk of 4340 to turn 80% of it into chips. The upside would be you could actually make an 8 hole hub to go with with custom flanged axle shafts. I'm using a set of original D30 disc brake hubs and they are certainly better centered than a couple of sets of the Crown imitations I have but still a long ways from being well centered on the hub bosses.

 

I didn't have much of a choice if I wanted to use studs that had a shoulder that was the right OD for the locking hubs. I don't know exactly how much material I left in the wheel hub, but it was sufficient enough to not make me too concerned. I haven't had one bit of trouble since I did this mod. None of it was perfectly centered and the slop was causing the initial issues anyway. This is a tap to fit set now. If I were to do much more mods on the full float beyond this, I would go with a different axle as this one is the smaller tubed D44.

 

Thanks for the many posts. Yes, I am aware that this subject has been covered many times but I don't think there was one post that actualy had a source lined out other than Mcmaster-Car and when I checked out their online catalogue, none of the studs seamed to be the size I needed so just thought I'd ask if there had been a new source found. I like your aproach 47v6. I think I'll try duffer's solution first since there is a little less involved. My question was answered for the most part by duffer about how the shoulder seating interface so I feel confident that once I can satisfy that, I'll have a bullet proof connection. Thanks again CC