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Lift Kit ??

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Donnie, Feb 10, 2019.

  1. Feb 10, 2019
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

    saskatoon,canada
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    Jan 22, 2019
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    99
    I have a 68 cj5, I'm looking for a lift kit in a 2.5" lift, why do some lifts say 1955 to 1968, some other ones will say 1967 to 1975. Will a lift kit fit from a different year CJ. Can I put on a 1" shackle lift too with out doing pedals and steering mods.
    Cheers
     
  2. Feb 10, 2019
    Rich M.

    Rich M. Shoe salesman 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Maryland
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    The springs are the same. The ubolts are specific due to axle tube diameter. Namely the D30 starting in 1972 is a larger diameter. IDK if the transition from offset to centered D44 in the rear ( same year) has a different dia. Personally I would avoid a shackle lift with stock springs but no it would not affect pedals/ steering.
     
  3. Feb 10, 2019
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    Sep 22, 2002
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    The Dana 44 in the rear is part of the difference. The tubes on the flanged axle versus the 2 piece axle are different. The flanged has larger tube diameter.
     
  4. Feb 10, 2019
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

    saskatoon,canada
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    Jan 22, 2019
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    I would be getting a leaf spring lift at 2.5". Would it be ok to add 1" shackle lift so my total would be 3.5" and not having to modify up pedals and steering. I am trying to keep this as simple as possible.
    Cheers
     
  5. Feb 10, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Certainly the longer shackles will change the steering geometry. You will need to adjust the caster angle with tapered shims. Lift springs also may change the caster, depending on the design of the springs.

    Why have you settled on 3.5" as ideal?
     
  6. Feb 10, 2019
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

    saskatoon,canada
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    Jan 22, 2019
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    Haven't really settled on 3.5". I have 33s on right now and they rub, owner before me tried to give it a little lift with home made body mounts, that look like ****. Lol, You think i could get away with just the lift and no shackles.
     
  7. Feb 10, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Where do they rub? Rubbing on the inside surface of the rear wheel well is normal and harmless. Tires often rub on the front springs near lock, but that's also harmless. Wide tires on too-narrow wheels will bulge and rub more. You can adjust the stops on the front axle and prevent rubbing with the springs if that's the problem.

    On the rear, typically the limit is about 33" because of the diameter of the fender opening. You need to cut to fit 34s. On the earlys, the fronts will rub at the front edge of the fender when stuffed, but I don't think that's a problem with 33s. Again, a little cutting or tube fenders and you can go larger. That would be a better solution that putting the Jeep higher in the air.
     
  8. Feb 10, 2019
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

    saskatoon,canada
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    Jan 22, 2019
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    So it would be safe to say a 2.5" lift would all I would need. Should I replace the shackles too with non lift ones.
     
  9. Feb 10, 2019
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

    saskatoon,canada
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    Tires rub like you said. Not huge concern.
     
  10. Feb 10, 2019
    Sierra Bum

    Sierra Bum Member

    The High Sierra
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    Oct 23, 2017
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    Like others have said, the springs are the same, the U Bolts change with the kits depending on your axles.

    -2.5" springs are enough for 33's. Its not perfect, but enough.

    -Shackles: I would stay away from "lift" shackles...they will screw up the geometry and provide no benefit. Shackles will give half their measurement over the stock length in lift. I.E., 1" longer shackle yields 1/2" of lift. Many of us run a compact after-market shackle to a have stronger unit. I get 3/8" lift out of my slightly longer, old, beefy Con Ferr shackles.

    -A 1" body lift (hockey pucks) will give you a little more clearance.... and it's useful for other mods like a truck 4 speed or custom exhaust.

    -1.5" Wheel spacers are another option for a little more clearance...know that some folks don't like them.

    -Its all about a balanced set-up
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2019
  11. Feb 10, 2019
    Sierra Bum

    Sierra Bum Member

    The High Sierra
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    Donnie, Just to give you an idea, here's my set up with 33x12.5x15s. I have no rubbing, even working the suspension in the rocks. I think its an well-balanced, effective and safe set-up:

    2.5" bds springs. 3/4" longer shackles. 1" body lift. Dana 30 front (3" wider stance than your 27). 1.5" wheel spacers only in the rear.
     
    Walt Couch likes this.
  12. Feb 10, 2019
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

    saskatoon,canada
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    Jan 22, 2019
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    So then the ? Is can I use my old shackles that are on the jeep already
     
  13. Feb 10, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    The lift springs will come with new bushings. You'll have four locations in the frame that should get new bushings. If the shackles and bolts are not worn, you can reuse them. I would get new crimp nuts or nylon insert nuts - they are supposed to be a single use item. If you use nylon insert nuts, make sure the bolts are long enough that you have more than a full thread exposed beyond the insert.
     
  14. Feb 12, 2019
    Mike C

    Mike C Member

    Austin, TX
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    I have the 3" Black Diamond lift on my A1. I have a 2.5" rancho lift on my '79 CJ5. The A1 has 33 10.5 on 15x8 rims and the CJ has 33 12.5 on 15x10" rims. Neither have any rubbing issues FWIW. I'm just not a fan of long shackles even if there are tons of them out there. Especially on a CJ which has the shackle in the front.
     
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