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Leaking Newly Rebuilt Ross Box

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by truckee4x4, Jun 19, 2020.

  1. Jun 19, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    DB8EDDE7-C2E6-41FE-A993-F514A0DB9ED9.jpeg So let’s say you’re me and your freshly painted and newly rebuilt Ross box looks great on your frame.....except for the fact that there’s oil leaking out of the bottom of the horn wire tube because you went too fast during the rebuild this winter and forgot to braze the base where it meets the wire tube....

    Does anyone have any suggestions about what I could do other than tearing the entire thing apart? Wire wheel the paint off the tube, epoxy around the base, and repaint? Dare I say the term “JB Weld?”
     
  2. Jun 19, 2020
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    JB or any thing else applied over the outside is just a band aid covering the wound.
    Over time, it would probably just peel off.
    This method would be okay for temporary or field/trip repair.
    One would have to remove the lubricant and completely clean the affected area.

    I'm a big believer in doing the job right the first time.
    With that said, I believe you should do the job a second time.
    Much easier access with the body off....and the job should be easier as you have prior experience.
    My .02 worth.
     
  3. Jun 19, 2020
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
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    I say take it back apart before you proceed.
    It’s not uncommon to do everything twice if you miss any small detail.
    I usually make sure the tube is swaged tightly into the washer and straight,
    Then I put gear oil resistant permatex under the washer before seating it tightly into place.
     
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  4. Jun 19, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    I've always filled my Ross boxes with moly disulfide grease, the nasty gray/black stuff used in front drive constant velocity joints. Its thin enough to almost be liquid, but doesn't leak like gear oil. It is messy though!
    -Donny
     
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  5. Jun 20, 2020
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
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    My advice is:
    Take it apart and fix it right, or, if you are like me, you will think about it at 11pm and not sleep well.

    Use EP grease, also known as 00 grease or corn picker oil/grease in the steering box and also the closed knuckles.
     
  6. Jun 20, 2020
    matt johnson

    matt johnson Caretaker of family Jeeps

    chesapeake, va
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    X2
     
  7. Jun 20, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    I knew I could count on you guys to make me do what I know I have to do....can anyone suggest which type of brazing rod is appropriate for the horn wire tube?
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2020
    Focker likes this.
  8. Jun 20, 2020
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
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    The tube itself usually can be reseaged with simple makeshift punch and die.
    Some tubes are copper/alloy and some are steel.
    The copper alloy will accept lead / tin solder .
    Rosin flux sticks to the copper alloy tube while acid flux sticks to the steel washer.
    The steel tubes may be welded or brazed to the steel base washer using pure brass and brazing flux.
     
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  9. Jun 23, 2020
    Michael Wedin

    Michael Wedin Member

    Sweetwater, TX
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    I took steel brake line , flared the end and silver soldered it to the round plate. Held well and used less temperature. Then I put permatex anaerobic sealer around edge of plate and tapped it in place. Didn't leak and used Brian Hainer's (Metalshaper) steering lube as well. The reason I replaced the tube was because the previous one rusted away due to water going down the steering column when sitting outdoors and the steering box filling up with water. Alway some gremlin poking it head up when least expecting it!
     
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  10. Jun 23, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Here's a close up of the bottom of my horn wire tube:
    553A37D9-0C7C-4ECB-986E-653C5D9318E9.jpeg

    Sounds like my plan exactly - I tore the box back down, pulled the tube out, and made a new gasket and put the box back together except for the tube. Both the tube and the washer are ferrous, so a friend traded me a Muggyweld SSF-6 silver solder brazing rod for some firewood. I am going to try and soak the washer to get all of the remnants of lube (Brian's) out of it first, and then see how the brazing goes, and seal with Permatex Super 300 gasket sealant when I tap the washer back in.
     
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