KieserWillys overdrive

Idle speed on this motor should be 650rpm.

 

That would be true if both wheels are turned equally.

Because of the spider gears, if you only jack one wheel, the drive shaft will only rotate one-half normal speed.

I think I've got that right... :?

 

I was trying to figure out if your distributor is installed correctly, if it isnt right you are only really running on one side of the motor, this wouldn't help with the noise but it would explain a lack of power.
This issue has been covered several times here, a search should help you.
As we always say, get a real factory service manual.
Make sure none of your Jeep body is touching the transmission or transfer case. The transfered vibrations can make things sound worse than they are.
As far as checking axle ratios, I have always removed the diff covers on a new to me Jeep to inspect the innards for chips on the teeth, rust, etc. At that time it's easy to look at the numbers stamped on the ring gear to determine the ratio.

 

Thanks on the RPM idle, I'll adjust that today.

when changing the fluids, I had it all apart and inspected the gears. I even remember taking pictures but can't seem to locate them. I guess I'll have to take the cover off agian if I'm not 100% certain what the gears are when doing the tire rotation test.

 

Ok checked the driveshaft for any play or movement, and I can rotate the driveshaft about a half an inch. No movement from side to side or wiggling. Not sure if that rotation is normal.

 

Wasn't someone saying they got a good idle but ran outa engine because they were using an even-fire instead of an odd-fire cap or distributer some time in the last six months?

Would this be his problem?

 

Alright so this is what I found out today.
first thing I did was adjust my idle to 650 rpm

then jacked up both rear tires upon spinning one tire the other rotated in the opposite direction which confirms that I have open differentials. That being said I marked my drive shaft an rotated
one tire two full turns (since that's how many times you need to rotate them with open differentials to find out the gear ratio) and my drive shaft turned a full 3 times and then some. 3.73?

now I did notice that 3/4's of the rotation (turning pretty freely) it slowed down and ce
to a stop, I had to apply alittle force, not much, in order to complete the turn. I didn't here any popping, clinking, or grinding. But something caused it to bind up enough to stop it. Brakes sticking? T-case or differential gears?

I guess I can disconnect the driveshaft and rotate the tire if it does the same thing I could eliminate the t-case. How do I know if it is the brakes sticking?

thanks

 

"How do I know if it is the brakes sticking?"

Usually you can hear the (drum) brakes dragging when you rotate the wheel, if they are too tight.

If you back off the adjusters and re-adjust them, (pump the pedal after each adjustment to center the shoes), then if there is any excess drag you will be able to both hear and feel the difference when you rotate the wheel by hand and make the adjustment.

Another clue is excess heat in the drum and hub after driving.

 

Thanks PeteL,
i plan on taking it to town tomorrow to run some errands, I can feel the drums then. Will they be excessively hot? Will it hurt to drive it like this? I'll compare the temp to the front drums.

ive never adjusted the brakes but willing to try if it helps

thamks again

 

You may want to get something like this...

Pen Type Mini Infrared Thermometer IR Temperature Measuring LCD Display H1E1

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Pen-...re-Measuring-LCD-Display-H1E1/1950070540.html

I bought mine at WallyMart about 3 to 4 year ago. I it still working on the original battery. I used it for monitoring the head temperature of my DNEPR motorcycle (Flat twin) especially after a tune-up because it was easy to lean out a cylinder and mess up the carb balance. I also used it to measure the temperature at the spark plug on the F134 to see if they all firing OK. You can easily tell if one brake are warmer then the others by aiming the device on the drums.

It is also very handy if you have one of you children "pretending" to be sick and unable to go to school

 

^ yes I actually have a temp gun. Have used it a lot and has come In handy.

so this is what I found out today. Jeep seems to be running better since adjusting the timing. Idles at 650-700. I shift into all gears between 2000-2500 rpm. Finish in third gear and crusin at 2500 rpm. Unfortunately I did not have a pace car to see how fast I was going.

upon returning home, checked all wheels for heat and used the temp
laser as well. I know these may not be accurate to the degree but if something is not right, it is a good I dicator. And thats what i found. Driverside rear wheel was way way hotter than the rest, so there is one issue needs to be addressed.
Still sounds like it is whining. I will try to make a short video and post if that's possible.

transfer case was not hot either. Nothing that I would say is out of the norm.

thanks for the help

 

RJ

What were the temps you were seeing? Gear / Transmission oil will after it is warmed up and working can see temps into the 220 degree and higher range when the components are being worked hard. Anything approaching 300 degrees is too high. Of course that is oil being tested with a sensor in the oil...........Driver side rear wheel at the Bearing Hub or Brake drum / Rotor? Comparisons are important although sometimes unique to the individual vehicle.

 

Hey tarry99, I took the jeep out for a quick 8 mile ride. I dint see any numbers in the 200 range so I'm not sure if I drove the jeep long enough but the numbers i got using the infer red temp gun were for t-case about 150. For all the hubs I got under the jeep and shot the back of the hubs, all but the rear drivers side were around 140. The rear drivers side was reading 185 and very hot to the touch. I'm assuming that I can simply adjust it somehow.

On a side note, I would like to give Mr Jeff a big thank you for selling me a half top for my jeep. In way better condition than I expected and at a great price. Deffinately work the road trip.

ill be back at the jeep once I return home.

 

RJ,
Although an 8 mile drive is perhaps just barely enough time to get it up to operating temperature it still is a good reference point. The Air starting Temp or ambient should also be taken into consideration.......if it's a 100 degrees out side versus 40 degrees the temps in the gear boxes will reflect that variance...........I would definitely look at the Drivers Side rear hub axle Bearing which means you need to pull the axle.........on that early D-44 axle some had zerk fittings in the outside tube near the top that were there to get grease to the bearing...........Since the Left side is 45 degrees hotter than the right in just a 8 mile ride I would pull it and change or service that bearing............also noise from the rear axle bearing if in fact it has failed can be transmitted throughout the drive train and may be what you were hearing............might also want to check the others side!

 

I think further extended speculation is fruitless until we simply see accurate data regarding actual road-speed versus rpms.
I wouldn't start tearing things apart yet.

 

Though I've never lost a rear wheel bearing on a jeep, I have lost them on a couple older Fords (69 Bronco and 72 van). Both times the noise was more of a growl than a whine and they both noticeably affected driveability, power and overall performance.

A whine to one person could be a growl to another. Sounds like tarry is on the right track. If you pull it, then I'd suggest just replacing both side bearings while you have everything apart. It's a big enough job that the cost of the bearings/races are nothing compared to the labor.