IT RUNS!!!!!!!!! (was Alternator Conversion)

I am almost done rebuilding my engine, all I have left to do is rewire it. When I removed the wires from the old alternator and regulator, I wasnt too careful in marking where they went to, figuring that I would replace it with a one wire alternator. Now that it is time to hook up the new alternator, I'm having trouble figuring out where everything goes.

I have one wire from the start position of the ignition switch, shouldn't this go to the solenoid? It has a molded plug on it that doesnt fit any on the solenoid, which both are original, so I don't understand this. What other wires go to the solenoid?

I also have struggled to find out what the terminals are on a voltage regulator. Any help on this? The PO didnt mark any of the wires, and I have several black wires from the regulator that I'm not sure where they go. I bought the Haynes manual for the CJ series, but that assumes you just pull one component, and replace it with the same exact one, not going into detail about what each terminal does.

This vehicle has been modified so much, that I dont think buying a new wiring harness would help, as it has a completely custom dash and engine bay, and none of the original metal panels. Over the winter, I want to redo the whole electrical system, but for now, I just want to know what I have to do to replace the old alternator and regulator with an internally regulated alternator, so I can actually drive the thing some.

Doug

 

Hello Doug

Regarding your question about the wire from your ignition switch to the starter solenoid, the small wire goes to the smaller screw post with the small nut on it. It is usually on the side of the solenoid.

The base of the solenoid probably has two large lugs on it. One is for the cable going to the starter and the other goes to the positive side of the battery. When you turn your switch to the start position it will send voltage to activate the solenoid and a plunger inside it will cause the 2 lugs to close the electrical contact and they will send voltage directly to the starter. You can hear the solenoid click when it is activated. As soon as you let go of the pressure of the start selection, the two lugs will open and no current will flow the starter.

Be sure your starter solenoid is well grounded to what it is attached. Many times this is the starter itself, or it may be on the inside of the fender

The following link has some good info on converting a jeep to 12 volts.

http://www.film.queensu.ca/Cj3b/Tech/SixVolt.html


Let us know how you come out.

Regards
Cliff

 

IT RUNS!!!!

IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!

I connected it as described in the above thread. I thought that was the right way, but I wanted to make sure. Of course, I couldnt do it the easy way, I had to remove the entire dash, and just start cutting out the rats nest of wire. To remove the dash, I had to remove my roll cage. To remove my roll cage, I had to remove both seats. I removed basically everything electrical, and wired up just enough for the ignition and starter to function, and the line to the oil pressure sensor.

I let it just turn for about 30 seconds to prime it with oil, then hit the igntion wire to the hot terminal, and after turning another 30 seconds or so (I'm guessing that was the fuel working up the line and through the filter), it started up. Once it started the first time, it started fine every other time, as long as the choke was closed. I didn't remember it being so loud. It sounds like a Harley with extra cylinders. A lot of that was probably because I had the air cleaner off.

My timing is way off, it backfired some through the exhaust, I messed with it, it was then going through the carb, I finally started timing it all over again from ground zero, and found that my spark plug wires arent long enough for it to be timed properly, due to an intake manifold that gets in the way, and a vacuum line that isnt long enough. The more I mess with this, the more I wonder how I got it home from the guy I bought it from. Don't ask me what it was timed at before. Next used car I buy will be looked over much more carefully. At least when I am done, it will be done right (or at least better) For the bit of time it was running alright, my oil pressure was at a constant 40 psi, and nothing seemed to be coming in the exhaust. The radiator got warm, and the engine didnt seem to get very hot, so that is promising as well.

I guess I am now completely rewiring the dash, although, after studying what was there, it was stupid to try and patch it together. Differant color wires were spliced together, none of it labeled, and not one fuse anywhere. I'm surprised it didnt catch fire. I went out and bought terminal blocks and modern fuse blocks, and am labeling everything. I am giving pretty much everything it's own circuits. So far, I have Ignition, Dash lights, Running Lights and turn signals, Head lights, radio and CB, heater, windshield washer, Horn, and Starter. Hopefully I will be running with me in the drivers seat by the end of the week.

My pictures were updated (before I pulled the roll cage and dash)

 

Re: IT RUNS!!!!

Actually, that all sounds pretty normal for an old vehicle purchase, especially an old Jeep. I've been through all that myself twice now. And yes, the best way to look at it is that it will be done "right," or at least to your specifications and satisfaction. I think that's what makes all the effort worthwhile anyway.

Stan