Is this master cylinder push rod ok?

While installing the clutch/brake assembly and linkage this weekend, I was having some difficulty in aligning the push rod with the master cylinder. I hope that its apparent in the picture. It is at a slight angle and I do not understand why. We put everything back in the same as it was. I tried to loosen the brackets and shift everything so, which made it better maybe. I am just curious as to if this is a problem or will become one. Thanks!

 

The other concern, even if it clears the cylinder bore, is that it loads the piston to one side which will no doubt shorten it's life. Can you press the pedal pin out and replace it with a longer one? Or add spacers like Nick inferred to move the master away from the frame rail? An offset rod would also cure that if there is enough space. Bottom line is that I would be highly reluctant to run that as is.

 

I cant move the brake arm over anymore or it interferes with the clutch linkage. I can try to make the holes bigger on tbe master cylinder bracket and move it over, there is not any play in the bracket as is. A friend wanted ti heat up the push rod and bend it but i wouldnt let him as theae things are impossible to find if something goes wrong. Is there a source for an offset push rod that your aware of? Thanks for the replies!

 

The pedal and push rod linkage travels in a slight Arch ...........so working with it and getting all components in a good starting position so that when the push rod is at rest ( start) it may want to be centered vertically and slightly below center on the horizontal ..........and as it travels through the Arch during application it still wants to be centered on the vertical and may end up slightly above center on the horizontal at full stop.........pushing or side loading the push rod and therefore the Master cylinder piston should be kept to a minimum as it will effect braking performance & piston wear.............Adding Shims or spacers to offset the push rod & components are all acceptable ways to fix or help...............It is against the law at least in California to weld on a push rod. Components that are OEM that came that way are of course OK to use.

 

Zooming in on the picture it looks like the rear of the push rod needs to go towards the frame rail. It's as though the brake pedal is shifted too far towards the center of the vehicle. Maybe take a close look at the mount and shaft setup that holds the brake pedal. Check the assembly to make sure there isn't an extra washer or shim. Possibly a slight gain could be made by using a thinner washer on the outboard side of the push rod eye. Also, it "may" be possible to grind off a bit of the edge of the eye and add a shim to the inboard side of the eye but not sure if I would do that - just a thought to make a small gain. As mentioned above you could add shims between the master and mount.

What year is your rig? Maybe look and another rig to see what's out of place. I would not run the push rod at that angle.

Good Luck

 

It is a 1970. That is precisely my problem. I have tried moving the entire assembly over, loosened about every bolt and gotten what little I could get from that and it just wasnt enough.


Thanks for the replies everyone, now that I know that is not going to work, I'll get back too it. I guess the master cylinder is just gonna have to move over away from the frame. Kind of stuck because moving the pushrod over anymore interferes with the clutch. I tried taking the pin on the bottom tube which the arms pivot on off so the brake arm could move over and the push rod was straight, but every time i hit the clutch, it would apply my brakes.... Sooo onto hour 4 of cursing at this thing...

 

Where are the mounting bolts for the mastercylinder?

And if they go through the frame rail away from the engine, are they long enough to shim between the frame rail and the mastercylinder, thereby moving it towards the engine to line up with the brake pedal arm?

 

It appears that you have a Herms Dual M/C Kit installed. I have this kit on my 2A with a V-6 and am having troubles with the brake pedal arm hitting the Block. I think your main problem lies in the Clutch and brake pedal shaft. Make sure that the clutch pedal is properly aligned on the shaft, maybe held on with the nut and bolt with maybe a cotter key for additional safety.

On the inside of the frame, there should be a space then a cotter pin, a washer and then your break pedal. You may have too much stuff on the shaft or you have the wrong pedal. The bracket on the inboard end of the shaft should be parallel with the frame. My break pedal is 1 3/8 in wide where it goes on the shaft.
, Give me a
At least you are working without the body, I am trying to solve my problems from underneath. The picture you posted with the spacer on the M/C push rod mount should not be needed. The M/C mounting appears to be correct

I hope this helps, Give me a shout if you have additional questions, Some times two minds can solve the same problem

Fltfndr
John Schiefer
515-225-0997

Fltfndr

 

thank you! Im at work now for 2 days so it will be some time before i can get back too it. I appreciate it!

 

the master cylinder mounts on that bracket, you can kinda see the bolts in the picture behind the brake arm. The bracket mounts on the top and bottom of the frame rail, not on the side so it cant be shimmed like that. Making the holes bigger seems like my only option.


the brake arm clears the block as of now, but barely. So i cant move the arm towards the passenger side, and towards the drivers side gives me clutch interference. Ill see if i have a picture of more of the assembly. It seems my only option is still to move the master cylinder over..

One other quick thing thats related to the picture ill put up, my clutch pedal arm is literally a quarter inch from the floor, since we put the body on. Is this normal?

 

Your last post says a lot. If your pedal arm does not touch the floor, I think maybe your clutch pedal arm is not "clocked" correctly on the clutch/brake pedal shaft Is the woodruff key missing? If your clutch pedal arm was in its correct position, against the floorboard, then the clutch ear would be rotated further toward the rear and maybe the interference would be eliminated

Fltfndr