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Input request: 75CJ5, what to do?

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by John_pro2a, Nov 25, 2006.

  1. Nov 25, 2006
    John_pro2a

    John_pro2a Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2006
    Messages:
    62
    Hey guys,

    Here's my situation. I was given a 1975 CJ5, Levi Renegade edition (blue with levi stickers and denim dash). I haven't seen it in a looooong time, so the following info is based on memory.

    It's mostly stock. It's got a V-8 (not sure what size). I know it's on its second motor. It's a 3 speed manual transmission. It has power steering. It has dual exhaust, glass packs coming out from under the doors.

    It's got an old custom bumper with winch, full roll cage, stock dash and seats (including rear). It might have a mild lift and 31" tires on steel rims. Old beat up soft top with doors (should mostly work I think). Windshield is intact. It has the spare on the rear and a 5 gallon jerry can mount.

    It's been in the pacific northwest all it's life (no salted roads, rust isn't too bad but there's a bit here and there). Never been in an accident, no bondo or re-paint (original paint and stickers are intact, but faded). It's got the diomand plate corner protectors (rear) and the diamond plates below the doors. I have no idea how the metal looks under them, the plate has always been there since new.

    It's been parked under a carport for about 15 years. Fluids were not drained before storage. It ran when parked. Right before being parked it had a full brake job (master, slaves and hoses replaced, drums turned). It also had a new clutch & pressure plate put in. It had a temperamental electrical system -- dash lights would go on and off at times... and if driven through water it'd die until the starter solenoid dried out (iirc). Again, iirc the steering was pretty tight and it handled the road fairly well.

    Here's my goal, I'd like to get it road worthy as a summer driver. I do love the jeep. I can't ever get rid of it (sentimental reasons). I'd like to drive it but don't want to do a 'real' restoration.

    I'm not really a gear head, and yeah I know that sucks and puts me at a disadvantage. I can figure some stuff out, but don't really have the time (or the desire) to be a home mechanic.

    From searching and reading this forum it seems like this year of jeep can have frame problems, so I know I'll have to look for that (upside is no salted roads and it has mostly been under cover). I am guessing that most of the rubber is shot, hopefully the motor mounts are ok. I figure I should drain and replace all the oils and gas before trying anything, and just go ahead and change all the rubber that's easy to change (belts, radiator hoses and such).

    So basically I'm wondering how I should proceed. What kind of things should I be looking to do... and what kind of things should I be looking to have a mechanic do? I do have access to a mechanic, who may or may not give me a discount on labor (probably a bit of a discount, or full price for some things and much less for others).

    Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated.

    Famous last words: It ran when I parked it. R)
     
  2. Nov 25, 2006
    John_pro2a

    John_pro2a Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2006
    Messages:
    62
    Sorry, posted in the wrong sub-forum. Mods please move to "Intermediate CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech."

    Another Q: I'd like to put in some used highback seats into it. Are there any from other jeeps that will bolt on w/o modification? Any way to add a shoulder belt using parts from another year?
     
  3. Nov 25, 2006
    78levi

    78levi Member

    indy
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2006
    Messages:
    53
    dont know where to start but sounds like we got another levi cool.welcome from indy
     
  4. Nov 25, 2006
    mb82

    mb82 I feel great!

    Charlottesville Va
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2003
    Messages:
    2,706
    Welcome from central Va.
    Sound to me like you got it.
    Look for frame cracks. check the brakes to make sure they work before you take it on the road. Infact you might want to totally change the brake fluid if they brakes do infact still work.
     
  5. Nov 25, 2006
    Tkett32

    Tkett32 New Member

    Atlanta Ga.
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2006
    Messages:
    38
    I was in almost the same position as you this spring, I bought '75 cj5 that had been sitting in a garage for 13yrs. It "ran when it was parked" also. Anyway I went and made sure the motor ran and what condition it was in before I went to far. It did run and good too. The brakes were my next step after sitting that long all the hoses and wheel cyl. were bad changed the master cyl. too. you can do most of this maint. yourself. Its my first Jeep but everything seems real basic on theses things. Get a service man. and take your time.
     
  6. Nov 25, 2006
    Dummy

    Dummy I kick hippies

    Escondido, CA
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2004
    Messages:
    646
    I've resurrected several vehicles that have sat for anywhere from 5-20 years. There are usually some variations, but for the most part here's what I've found based on a few:

    My '69 Cutlass: Sat for 15 years outside at my mom's house in Mass. through rain, snow, etc. Threw gas at the 455 and just cranked it until it fired. TH400, brakes, etc. all good. Ran and drove before I pulled the engine for my '48 Willys.

    My M715: Sat outside for about 5 years in Idaho. Brakes were totally gone (new master, wheel cylinders, shoes). Changed oil in diffs & tranny.

    '71 CJ-6: Abandoned in desert for about 10 years w/out engine. Changed rear diff fluid and put on new front shoes. Brake fluid, etc. fine.

    '48 Willys Pickup: Sat outside in No. Cal for about 15-20 years. Threw gas at the carb, cranked until it fired, and drove it around. Master cylinder had seal failure (single pot) and lost brakes in my driveway. That one steepened the learning curve.

    There have been several others, but my point is I usually ignore the old "magazine method" of bringing a vehicle back from the dead. I'm usually willing or planning on replacing componends, so it's no biggie to toss caution to the wind as long as I make sure the rig is safe for road duty.

    That said, here's what you should do:

    Your 304 engine: pop the dist. cap and make sure the connections aren't corroded. Spray some WD-40 in there. Pull spark plugs and shoot some Marvel's Myster oil into each cylinder and put the plugs back in. Let them sit for a few days like that. This will prevent the iron rings from sticking to the cylinder wall upon initial cranking and breaking. Pop off the carb and drain it upside down working the throttle. The gas inside has most likely turned to varnish. Drain the oil and put on a new oil filter. Before you crank the engine over remove the distributor and use an electric drill-mounted engine priming tool to get oil pressure to the bearings and upper end. Use an oil pressure gauge or watch the oil feed hole where the dist. drive gear would be as you use the drill. Finally, spin the engine over with no spark plugs a few times to eject all the MM oil.

    Electrical: give the wires an eyeball to make sure mice or other vermin haven't chewed through anything that can ground out. Once it's running, throw a multi meter on the alt. to make sure it's actually giving you around 14.4 Volts.

    Fuel: Drain the gas tank (you'll most likely need to drop it). Fuel turns into bad stuff after it sits for a few years, and the constant condensation inside has most likely rusted whatever portion of the tank was empty. Plan on flushing the tank and make sure you run 2 fuel filters (the first one being easily accessible so you can swap it out easily)

    Cooling: Just give the hoses a squeeze and make sure they're not brittle. Check fluid level. Radiator will pressure test itself once the rig comes up to temp the first time.

    Tranny & T-case: As long as the shifters move fine, just drain the 90W and refill

    Axles: Pop the fill plugs and make sure the oil level is up to the bottom of plug. I'd change the rear just because, but you really don't need to.

    Brakes: First, give the pedal a series of really hard stomps. You want to get the fluid moving under pressure to check condition of the seals and pistons. Newer rigs like yours have chrome lined bores, so rusting solid isn't as much of a problem. Pop off the drums and make sure the shoe lining hasn't disintegrated. Older organic pads come apart if left sitting in wet climates for a long time. If they're solid (poke 'em with a flathead) just lube the adjusters and put 'em back together. Make sure the seals at each wheel cylinder are dry and there's no evidence of leaking. Same with the master cyl. at the back where the pushrod enters. Check the fluid level and make sure it's somewhat clean (it's never clean - just make sure it's not black and the inside of the master doesn't look like there's rusty scale in there)

    Misc: Don't run dry rotted tires, bounce the suspension to make sure none of the spring eye/shackle bushings have frozen up, check all your other fluids (PS, or steering box oil level, etc.).

    Enjoy and post some pics.
     
  7. Nov 25, 2006
    John_pro2a

    John_pro2a Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2006
    Messages:
    62
    There's a little more rust then I remember, but then it's been a long time ;)

    Thanks for the great input, it gave me a good idea of how to proceed. I'm in WA, greater Seattle area.

    Here's some pics. My camera went wonky on me so this is the best I can do:

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  8. Nov 25, 2006
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
    Joined:
    May 25, 2006
    Messages:
    2,871
    I'm in Bonney Lake, always looking for projects. I'd be happy to look at it for you and maybe be able to point out the most pressing needs.
    dflood@eastpiercefirefighters.org
     
  9. Nov 27, 2006
    GPin

    GPin Member

    Spokane, Washington
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2006
    Messages:
    216
    Looks like a great project! On a project like that I like to give it a good wash job, inside, outside, underneath, ect. before I start. Gives me more ambition to work on if the mud and dirt isn't falling in my eyes and I don't have to lay in a pile of leaves to work on it. Sounds like everybody has the basics covered.
    Looks like your suspension is stock, as well as your engine. Good score for free! Looks like your fuel tank has a leak, you might just want to buy a new one instead of messing with that one. Get it running and drive it around with the lowback seats, you might like them.
    Once you get that 304 started you will be in jeepin heaven and probably be spending all your spare time and money on that jeep, hope your not married!:) That is unless the inlaws gave this to you! Good luck!
    Greg
     
  10. Nov 27, 2006
    71 Muk WA

    71 Muk WA New Member

    Mukilteo, Washington
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2006
    Messages:
    38
    Welcome from Mukilteo!
     
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