Ignition Issues-what Coil?

I am finally trying to fire up my 198 after doing work on it on an off for several years. The electrical things i have changed or played with is....Change to 10SI alternator, ignition key, some other wiring and battery connection improvements. I think i have the wiring right, but not wondering if my Coil, points or condenser is bad.

If i do need to get a coil i know i probably shouldn't pick one for the original Buick standards since i have a internal regulator alternator now. What coil should i buy? Does the alternator change even impact the coil choice at all? I am thinking not.

 

The alternator should have no bearing on what coil to use. The choice of coil will be one with internal resistor, or not. This will be determined by the wiring to the coil. Do you have an external resistor, on the wire itself could be resistor wire?
-Donny

 

no just straight wire, nothing special. Still trying to also look for a good diagram, as maybe i missed reconnecting something.

 

Factory wiring or something else? Does it start and run with the coil you have? JMO - I would buy a conventional coil and use a ballast resistor.

Standard UC12 or UC12X will fit in your coil bracket, and has no internal resistor. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-uc12x?rrec=true
A ballast resistor like this will work: More Information for WVE 6R1002 Back at the parts counter, we'd typically pick a ballast resistor from a '70s Dodge if the customer wanted a generic ballast resistor.

 

Not yet I haven’t been able to make spark. Been researching ways to by pass the points to check coil.

Because I know virtually nothing about ignition systems....what’s the advantage/disadvantage between both setups?
Is there a wiring diagram so I can understand?

 

Which two setups? With or without ballast resistor? They are the same electrically. One puts the resistor inside the coil, the other puts it outside.

I'm sure a CJ-5 wiring diagram has been posted here at some time. Do you own the FSM?

Not anxious to curate your electrical education. There are dozens of pages and videos available online. If you can't find enough explanation online, maybe you could buy a book on automobile electric systems and read up. I'm sure there are plenty of used copies of such books on Amazon or Alibris or wherever. Or check the public library.

 

One basic introduction to old cars you might try is an old Motors Manual. https://www.amazon.com/Motors-Auto-Repair-Manual-MOTOR/dp/B000BJ0GMW
These books were meant (I presume) to help gas station mechanics work on lots of different makes of cars. If my 1954 copy is typical, the first third is general information applicable to all or many makes. The last part covers each make in general detail; focusing on tune-up, engine repairs and service specs. Covers passenger cars, not Jeeps.

 

Thank you. I’m not expected you to teach me I was just looking for further clarification on what you provided. I can definitely search and have.
My engine is not a CJ5 So searching that route is useless. So now I need to find out if my Buick engine came with a external resistor or if an internal coil version can be substituted as I and so many others have done with upgrading to a 10si alternator to get rid of external voltage regulators.

 

Well ... I think that's somewhat mistaken. The technology is quite generic, especially in this age. I'll ask again ... what wiring do you have now? One engine or another, doesn't make much difference. In this era, they connect to the chassis with the same few wires.

 

wiring diagram with resistor wire to coil . now not to get you confused
I would just buy a coil with internal resistor . and not worry about a coil with external ballast
wiring from a old chilton manual

 

Hello,

Still trying to problem solve my lack of spark. It has been years since i originally tore out some old wiring as i upgraded items and cleaned out some old wiring etc. I have two questions as my engine is a 198 but i also do want to upgrade systems, like i have done with the alternator so just looking at what the original parts are wont work for me.

Question #1-Is there really supposed to be a wire from the starter to the coil so that the positive side of the coil has two connections? Is this mandatory for it to spark and run or just extra help or?

Question #2-Just like streamling and upgrading the alternator to internal regulator so i could clean up some engine bay wiring and extras, i want to have an internal resistor coil. Since i assume that was not original equipment, which coil should i get and/or how would i go about determining that? I know not all things are interchangeable with at 225 but was considering just using that engine to select.

Thanks all.

 

Usually the second connection is for starting only. When the engine is running, the ballast resistor limits current / drops voltage through the coil. You can run for a while without the ballast resistor (hot-wired) but too long like this will shorten the life of the points and maybe overheat the coil (?) When starting, the connection direct to the battery bypasses the ballast resistor and juices up the spark for easy starting. Some sources say this is needed because heavy current drain of starting lowers the battery voltage, requiring a special direct connection when cranking. Or maybe the hotter spark simply helps starting.

Thre are two styles of these coils; with an internal resistor and without. The extra starting circuit does nothing if the resistor is internal to the coil. You need to be able to separate the coil from the ballast resistor to take advantage of the "extra juice when cranking" feature. When running, both style coils are electrically the same, except the ballast resistor heat will be inside or outside the coil can.

 

This feature is dependent on which ignition switch you are using. If your switch does NOT supply power to the ignition post and acc post during start position then you will need the "extra starting circuit" which is the wire from the starter "R" terminal to the "+" coil terminal.

 

So what is the advantage/disadvantage of using an external resistor instead of internal in the coil?

My wiring is replaced and correct it appears, with the exception of the starter to coil wire but still not spark. I am just considering replacing everything, coil, points, condenser, cap and rotor and just figure one of those is the issue.

 

I would add the missing starter to coil wire and see what happens. I think your key is likely not supplying any power to the IGN post while the engine is cranking. so you need that extra wire otherwise you get no spark at startup.

 

None. I was thinking of doing that first, but i just couldn't imagine that would really do anything. Especially with the new knowledge of if i am already using an internal resistor coil it wont make a difference as all the power is resisted already.

 

i edited my post after you quoted it. I think the issue is that, because you don’t have the wire going from the starter to the coil, you’re getting zero spark at startup. Slightly resisted spark would be OK, but obviously zero spark is not ok.

also, I’m not sure how an internal resistor coil works. It likely bypasses the resistor on startup so, just like the external resistor wiring, you’re still getting full voltage at startup. But either way you absolutely need the wire from the starter to the coil if your IGN post is not powered during startup.