I think I broke my engine

You might get the oil tested, they can tell if there are fine particles of metal in the oil. Go to a place that sells heavy equipment and they can tell you who does it in your town.

 

There is no published end play clearance for the input shaft/mainshaft/front to rear bearing on a T90.
That doesn't prevent folks from trying to add shims to various locations to try and solve popping out of gear problems.
The transmission I have worked on, my own,had no end play when assembled.
The only published end play spec is for the cluster gear, which according to the TSN should be: .012" to .018".
This is controlled by the thrust washers and the transmission case area where the thrust washers ride against the cluster.

 

I thought end play was the amount the shaft could move in and out, which it doesn't seem to do on mine. But if end play refers to wobble and it's not supposed to do that then I have a problem.

 

Agree with Howard. If I didn't have any wobble in my input shaft, I would think there is something wrong with my T-90..

 

Update...and it's not good. Pulled the oil pan and the rod bearings are all toast. I'm guessing the oil pump failed, I don't have any other explanation. From what I can see, though, the crank journals look OK -- I don't see any scoring on them. I guess I can get by with new bearings and a new oil pump ... ?

 

Negative....you need to have that crank turned and re-sized. I'd have the rods checked too.

Scott

 

one would think if the rods were toast, the mains can't be good either....
and how did the oil pump fail ?

 

I planned on replacing all the bearings including the mains. Best I can figure, the pressure relief valve is/was malfunctioning. Oil pressure is perfect at idle but drops on revs. It's a new pump but I have another new one to replace it with.

 

I'm now totally convinced that new oil pumps for the L and F heads are junk. I will never use one. If the original one was working fine I wouldn't bother replacing it.

Sorry it turned out so bad Chris.


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Man that sux, !!

did you spin the dist gear and its only turning the oil pump slowly?

I had that issue with my 1974 cj5 with a 304.

Had to run a small copper tube and shoot oils on the dist gear itself (distributor oilier)

It did and sounded just like what you described

kept sheering the dist gear.

 

Oil pump is probably ok, but would replace anyway...Main bearings will show low oil pressure when engine is warm. I'd recommend having the crank turned and sized and buy rod and main bearings to match. Also have the rods checked for stress and roundness and reconditioned to repair.

Scott

 

The F134 has a forged steel crank, and - fortunate for you - these cranks are harder than the bearing material and hard to damage. I would advise that you inspect all the journals and measure them to make sure they are still in spec. If the bearings are only hammered and not spun, you may be able to just install new bearings. If I had any metal chips in the sump, I'd take the engine apart completely and clean the oil galleys.

 

I had the crank turned when I rebuilt the engine 150 miles ago. I only took two rod caps off so far and the bearings are not spun but they show obvious signs of oil starvation and there are grey flakes in the bottom of the pan (the oil looked clean when I drained it but the bottom of the pan is sparkly with bearing material.)

Naturally I will inspect the crank once I remove it but there are no immediate signs of damage to it. After speaking with my machine shop guy (whose opinion I trust) I think it was an oil pump failure. I took in one of the bearings and showed him and he said the crank is probably OK but he offered to look it over for me at no charge if I take it in to him.

I wish I had kept the original oil pump but I was naive in thinking that a new pump would be much better than the old crusty one. Live and learn I guess.

What's the best method for cleaning the oil galleys? The block was hot tanked initially so I'm sure they started out clean.

 

Sometimes some of the bearing material will transfer to the journal. You can remove it with a strip of emery cloth around the journal. The bearing material is soft and it will come off before the steel is affected.

Brushes - like rifle brushes. They are sold just for this purpose. Remove the galley plugs - don't forget to put them back! Soap and water and compressed air. Don't know if this is best, but this is what I've done, based on my research. SOP after hot tanking... if your shop built the engine, they probably did it.

 

Sorry to hear....

When this happened to my Fhead, the machinist I used had me tear down the entire engine and hot tanked everything again. As I said in my thread, I was never convinced that we totally figured out what happened, but I never suspected the oil pump which was also new. You now have me thinking, but I ended up using that same new oil pump again on reassembly and haven't had any problems.

Any theories on why the oil pump is bad? Gear driven part seems pretty straight forward, is it the relief valve?

 

Relief valve is the current theory. Since it has perfect oil pressure at idle but drops at higher RPMs, the shop said it was a "text book example" of a weak relief valve. He thinks maybe the spring is too weak. Since I have another new pump, I'm going to pull the relief valve springs on both of them and compare. I really wish I had kept my original pump.

It's not so bad having to tear into the motor again. The bad part is learning to trust it once I get it back together; I fear that I will always be paranoid and be afraid to drive it regularly.

 

Boy do I know what that feels like! It's been a couple of years now so it's gotten better.

I think I tossed my original pump too, but I'll look tonight.

 

This may be a dumb question but did you install the rods in the right direction. Remember they only go in one way.

 

Sorry to hear this Chris headin to Linn next weekend might give you a call on the way back