i installed disk brakes on my dana 25 and had no problems.

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by 47v6, Mar 1, 2012.

  1. Mar 1, 2012
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

    Washington DC.
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    I did not have to grind the caliper. I did not have to space out the bearing on the spindle. It worked correctly like it came from the factory. why did i have zero issues? is there something i did wrong? everything has good clearance.

    next question, whats the procedure for mounting disks in the rear on the dana 41?
     
  2. Mar 1, 2012
    garage gnome

    garage gnome Rust polisher Sponsor

    Western MA
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    Is this the kit from Kaiser willys that you used? I think Herm the overdrive guy is selling a kit to do the rear axles also.
     
  3. Mar 1, 2012
    mauls

    mauls New Member

    Kansas City
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    Interesting! Please provide more info on the kit you have, i've been wanting to upgrade to disc up front but I want to avoid as many headaches as possible
     
  4. Mar 1, 2012
    curtcanada

    curtcanada L, L, and the POH! Sponsor

    Western Slope, CO
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    After reading all the info on this conversion, I'd be asking the same thing! Hopefully you're just lucky!
     
  5. Mar 1, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Herm and "the Jeep guy" are getting the rear disc brake conversions (non full float) from R&P. Might as well go directly to the source. 503-557-8911. I know this because I helped in the prototyping. It should work fine on a 41, tapered axle 44, and a CJ flanged axle 44, both offset and centered.
    Whether the front disc conversion needs shimmed depends on whether you have the earlier narrow inner bearing hub which doesn't need shimmed or the later wider inner bearing hub which needs shimmed or the wider inner race due to the different placement of the step on the inner part of the hub to accommodate the wider inner bearing. I will say the later wider bearing is a stronger setup but does require some changes in which parts are used.
    If you have had no issues then consider it fortuitous and move on. With the right combo of parts it is a bolt on.
    Some knuckles need a little grinding and some do not due to casting differences in the knuckles and calipers.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2012
  6. Mar 1, 2012
    j54mitsu

    j54mitsu Member

    Alexandria, VA
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    Awesome! Only thing that I can think of is to ask if you checked for clearance while moving the caliper as if the pads were thin, i.e. will the caliper still be free to move at the end of the pad's lifecycle?
     
  7. Mar 3, 2012
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    I bought the caliper mounts from "the jeep guy" 85 bucks a set new. The rest of the parts I sourced from rock auto. i got a closeout deal on calipers, 16 bucks a side, no core charge and raybestos pads for 10 bucks both sides. I actually sourced all my parts from rock auto except the spindle bushings. lugs, lug nuts, king pin bearings, seals and knuckle seals ,all rock auto. i was expecting to have do make a ship for the placement of the hub and grind something but, no when i put it together and stuck the loaded caliper in there. it just worked like any other vehicle. i don't have money for any kits that i can build myself with all the info out there and since I got all this junk for free, I'm going with the cheap or free theme. I'm going to do the rear now. i checked and all the parts will bolt up to the dana 41 hub and housing and i can throw out those terrible heel toe adjusting 9 inch death brakes. the price for the parts is cheap enough that 11 inch drum brakes are MORE expensive. they worked amazingingly well on my first 47 and given a free or cheap set I would have gone that route. availability of parts is key. chevy junk is everywhere and inexpensive.
     
  8. Mar 3, 2012
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
    0 No Vehicle Specified
    DORMAN 610106 (610-106) Lug Stud $ 1.30 $ 0.00 10 $ 13.00
    1979 CHEVROLET K10 PICKUP 5.7L 350cid V8
    CENTRIC 14166005 (141.66005) Caliper $ 16.31 $ 0.00 1 $ 16.31
    CENTRIC 14166006 (141.66006) Caliper $ 16.31 $ 0.00 1 $ 16.31
    RAYBESTOS RRD153M Brake Pad
    Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty $ 9.15 $ 0.00 1 $ 9.15
    1977 JEEP CJ5 5.0L 304cid V8
    CENTRIC 12163004 (121.63004) Rotor $ 26.99 $ 0.00 2 $ 53.98
    Shipping Priority Mail, Ground $ 40.75
    Order Total $ 149.50
     
  9. Mar 4, 2012
    hotrod351

    hotrod351 Member

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    sound so good that it makes me want to do mine.
     
  10. Mar 4, 2012
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
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    thanks for the part numbers. i just ordered the calipers since my local flaps want almost $80 for a pair.
     
  11. Jul 14, 2013
    TexasWheels

    TexasWheels New Member

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    I sent a quote request to Rock Auto today. We will see what they come back with on price, today. I have my 1961 front brakes completely disassembled and hopefully they can give me the same deal they gave you, 47v6. The Jeep guy still has his caliper brackets the same price. Can I ask the different between the smaller brackets versus the full back brackets? Should I be concerned about brake dust? My jeep is an around town driver. I do have black powder coated rims, for what it is worth.
     
  12. Jul 14, 2013
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Member

    Louisville, Ky
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    The kit I got from R&P had the rotors, hubs and lugs nuts all together when I got it.
     
  13. Jul 15, 2013
    TexasWheels

    TexasWheels New Member

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    I am going to call R&P I am hoping to talk to 47v6 on spindle bushings, king pin bearings, seals and knuckle seals.

    I have called Junk Yards and looked at lots of kits. I want to do whats right, but also have to consider pocket book. Not looking to cut corners but not looking to give away money either.
     
  14. Jul 15, 2013
    TexasWheels

    TexasWheels New Member

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    I talked to the guys at R&P. They gave me a 10% discount plus cheaper shipping with USPS so I went ahead and ordered from them. Thank you for the referral.

    *Taking it apart is a lot easier than putting it together!"
     
  15. Jul 17, 2013
    Rollbar

    Rollbar Minister

    Florida
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    Are those part numbers from R&P?

    Web site ?

    Thanks,
    Jim
     
  16. Jul 18, 2013
    TexasWheels

    TexasWheels New Member

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    The part numbers are from RockAuto Parts Catalog I think it is safe to say you will have to reuse bearings with this setup.

    I choose R&P because of the completeness of the kit. http://rp4wd.com
    I will say, you need to keep your nuts and washers off your old spindle setup. I didn't expect to have to use those, but you do. Their customer support has been real good. I will be calling them this morning as a matter of fact. My issues have been on my lack of experience and not their product.
     
  17. Oct 8, 2013
    Will Hunt

    Will Hunt New Member

    Hood River, Oregon
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    Hey, I'm a new guy here. This is actually my first post on Early CJ5. I have a 1952 Willys M38 flatty and its had some mods done to it. It has a buick v6 that the previous owner put in it. I think all the rest of the running gear is stock, except the brakes are 11 inch out of a later model (1970's) CJ. The brakes are the issue. They are terrible. It has the old frame mounted single reservour master cylinder. I'm going to convert to swing pedals out of a 1980's cherokee and disk brakes on all the wheels. This will also involve going hydraulic on the clutch linkage. The front axle is a dana 25 and the rear axle is a dana 44 with a full floater kit and warn lock hubs. My question is would the disc brake set up that attracted to rust used on his dana 25 axle work on the dana 44 axle? Since I am going to put new brakes on the Jeep I'm going disc brakes front and rear.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2013
  18. Oct 8, 2013
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    For the rear with the Full Floater (not positive about Herm's setup as mine is a Warn) you need a little adapter. Call Paul at R&P as they sell the right setup. I got most of the parts from them, but sourced the Caddy Calipers from RockAuto on Paul's advice. Shipping was cheaper and easier for me to get them. I wanted the integrated E-Brake for the rear.
     
  19. Oct 9, 2013
    Will Hunt

    Will Hunt New Member

    Hood River, Oregon
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    Thanks for replying, Warloch. I'm looking for an inexpensive way to convert to disc brakes and I found a guy on Craigslist that has has a dana 30 front axle and a dana 35 rear axles from a 1989 Wrangler with disc brakes. The dana 35 brakes are a conversion. Do you know if these brake parts would be compatable with the dana 25 and dana 44 that are on my 1952 M38. You seem experienced in doing mods on flattys so your advice is valuable.

    Thanks,

    Will
     
  20. Oct 9, 2013
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    I am not as familiar with those parts for the conversion. I ran the 11" brakes on my flatties for years until I started putting the D30s up front. Most folks use the chevy parts for the swap as they are cheaper and more readily available. Nick can verify, but I believe R&Ps setup is based on the chevy parts. I have some D30 parts in the shop and can take a look at the fitment, but that won't be for several months. I am pulling a buddies 99 in for a motor pull in a week or so.

    How quick are you wanting to do the swap?
     

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