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Help with Dist Cap

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by rkusa, Feb 6, 2007.

  1. Jun 12, 2007
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist Sponsor

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    4,900
    I have to ask this, why did you paint the carb. Its not really good to paint the carb as it helps hold in heat that the bare aluminum would have disappated, otherwise it looks great..

    As far as the wobble on the frontend it sounds like you have a combination of 2 things to check and work on. The 1st would be to check the wheelbearings themselves and then the kingpin bearings that are in the top and bottom of the dana 27a spindle housing., you'll need to remove the wheel to do both. The king pin bearing and cup is part 23 and 24 in this drawing.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2007
  2. Jun 13, 2007
    rkusa

    rkusa rkusa

    Western NC
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2007
    Messages:
    102
    Thanks for the drawing, I'm still learning....big time.
    I will pull off the wheel and take some photos.
    I can not seem to find as much info on this job as the timing etc.

    As for painting the carb, it was done by the carb rebuild shop.....they offer colors, for marine carbs, and I have just been sort of frustrated with not knowing enough about cars yet, so I requested a color in order to cheer things up a bit.
    Wouldn't you know the guy said nothing about that being a bad idea, as well as putting the wrong top on it.

    Do you think it will lead to problems.....maybe I can remove the paint.......krap....
    I'm not sending it back, because it took 4 x longer than the estimate, as well as
    the above mentioned wrongness.....no real complaint though, as it works good, and
    I don't think I would have known which parts were worn etc to do it myself.


    Oh well, it's on to the bearing problem.
     
  3. Jun 13, 2007
    rkusa

    rkusa rkusa

    Western NC
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2007
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    102
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Ok, to get to the wheel bearings and King pin and cup, do I remove all the stuff above. and will there be small parts and springs flying out.
    Also do I need any special tools to remove or replace when I get the parts I need.
    I read brass hammer and fish scale....?
     
  4. Jun 13, 2007
    rkusa

    rkusa rkusa

    Western NC
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2007
    Messages:
    102
    OK I went to NAPA and they can get Kingpins for about $100 bucks.

    I also wonder if a DANA 30 from a 1984 CJ7 with disk breaks axle and springs and all will fit this 1971 CJ5
    I have a 1978 4x4 truck to trade for this if I can get one and if it would fit.
    I think I found one a couple of states away, and the guy might be interested in the swap.

    HELP. is it hard to change the King pins and bearings....the auto parts guy said it takes alot of heating and hammering. I have a tourch and hammer.
    But then he said the new ones have to be put in by a shop with a press as other wise I would ruin them.
    Would I have to remove the axle to get it to the shop .....?
    Thanks in Advance for the help.
     
  5. Jun 13, 2007
    sparky

    sparky done Staff Member Founder

    Toowoomba, QLD
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    9,067
    Get thee a factory service manual!

    Visit the tech section for Dana 30 swap stuff and springs. Short answer no. Long answer, could probably be done.

    King pins rarely need replaced. If they do get a set from someone here. Otherwise the bearings are cake to replace, no hammers, torches or other instruments of torture were used for any of mine.

    Like I said, get a factory service manual. Turner 4WD has 'em, http://www.thejeep.com/
     
  6. Jun 14, 2007
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    Jan 7, 2007
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    1,524
    this parts guy is thinking about a different kingpin setup like used on trucks,not 4 wheeldrives,and those my friend are a real PITA the ones you have are a walk in the park
     
  7. Jun 14, 2007
    rkusa

    rkusa rkusa

    Western NC
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2007
    Messages:
    102
    Dana 27A King Pin and wheel bearing

    That sounds great.
    So I have the entire front axle about clean now.



    So do I just start by removing the 4 bolts on top and bottom of the king pin cap, or, do I take the wheel apart more than I already have.
    I know I should buy a manual, and I'm hoping to get one soon. Until then,
    I have to figure this out and fix it. Maybe when I get a manual I will understand it better. I've had so many Chilton and Hayes books that just left me in a fog most of the time and with a broken vehicle. My wife has given up on my car repair skills, and I can't blame her, but I refuse to stop..... until I learn.
    So far.....this method is working, and I know it's a pain but please stick with me if any of you can.

    Once the engine started to run, I did check the timing, and it was right on at 5, and the carb guy said the float was stuck and the PO who rebuilt it left out parts etc........

    I replaced all the gaskets for the intake manifold, carb,valve covers, all new wires, points, cap, rotor and more with no leaks etc. So it's taking long, but working.
    I can't drive it with the wheels about to fall off at 2mph, and since I have had to clean it all, I will replace anything I can find out that's broke or worn and then go on to the next thing....which might be that the body is tilted, and it appears that the PO attempted to take the body off, as there are holes ripped in places that shouldn't be in what looks like effort to get to bolts that hold the tub on.

    So....that's it for now.

    Any help on how to change the king pin bearings, and the wheel bearings would be of great help.
    I'm also wondering if Lockers are any help going down icy hills in the winter.
    That's the reason I need this thing is to get in and out of here in the winter.

    Thanks in Advance
     
  8. Jun 14, 2007
    farfle

    farfle old dog

    Mariposa, CA
    Joined:
    May 14, 2007
    Messages:
    430
    RK,

    I've got a suggestion here, I hope you'll take it in the spirit its meant..
    It might be better to make a seperate post for each thing you're trying to fix.
    ie. "front hub removal" or "body mount repair". Reason being I think you'll get more help from more folks with that specific skill, it makes search easier for the rest of us (we're learnin' too), and that way you won't wind up with 58 pages of responses that no longer have anything to do with your original post.

    I too live in the boonies, and I'd be lost without the net, so I know where you're coming from. However, I would second the moton that you get SOME kind of manual, even a Haynes or a Chiltons...sometimes those little drawings can make all the difference!
     
  9. Jun 15, 2007
    rkusa

    rkusa rkusa

    Western NC
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2007
    Messages:
    102
    No problem with that,or anything for that matter that would be helpful.
    I know I seem like an info hog, but eventually I'll be on the other side of the fence and will give back more than I have taken from the knowledge base which by the way is here in, incredible.
     
  10. Jun 15, 2007
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    Jan 7, 2007
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    1,524
    really wouldnt start tearing the front end apart till you find out where the slop is coming from, from the sound of things i think you have a loose wheel bearing and a wore out tie rod end,not going to say that i think you have kingpin issues,and not gona you dont,you need to jack this thing up"already done" shake the tire up and down and look to see where your problem is,and repeat this for side to side motion
     
  11. Jun 15, 2007
    rkusa

    rkusa rkusa

    Western NC
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2007
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    102
    Thanks: I had it up for two days, and got rid of all the old grease.
    I didn't take it apart yet.
    On the drivers side, the 12 and 6 movement is maybe 3"
    9 and 3 has shake, but not nearly as bad.

    Passinger side, 12 and 6 about 1/2 of the other side....not nearly as bad.
    3 to 9 very slight.
    This is with the tires on....I tried it with the tire off on the better (passinger side) and can't get the same movement.

    Also, the drivers side has alot more grease at the bottom of the whole deal.

    I also found a bunch of drawings and diagrams, so I now see that the wheel bearings are in the the center of the wheel. I don't really want to take anything apart until I understand it all, and know if I will need special tools to take it apart etc.

    I also put the wheels back on and went for a short drive....the thing runs good, but, when it slows down to much, it stalls and then won't start again. I had to pop the clutch to get it going again. it's maybe needing more carb adjustment, as it seems to not be getting gas after a while it starts again....could it be vapor lock....? What will cure this.?
     
  12. Jun 15, 2007
    rkusa

    rkusa rkusa

    Western NC
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2007
    Messages:
    102
    Wheel bearings , king pin bearings and more

    I don't want to take this all apart like you said, until I know at least what to look for
    and know if I need any special tools to get it apart and reassemble etc.

    It is a good opportunity to also start working on sand blasting the frame and under the fenders while I learn.
    So how do I know if the tie rod ends are bad, or the wheel bearings are loose or broken....?
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2007
  13. Jun 15, 2007
    sparky

    sparky done Staff Member Founder

    Toowoomba, QLD
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    9,067
    Re: Wheel bearings , king pin bearings and more

    Like I said, a FSM!!!!! It's a tool same as anything else you use when working on it. Probably the single most valuable one you can buy for the money.

    It has information on how to troubleshoot, disassemble, reassemble, etc.
     
  14. Jun 16, 2007
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    :iagree: try your local library out,believe it or not they may just have a book on this thing,have done it many times,just be sure to keep their book clean if they have it
     
  15. Jun 16, 2007
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    as far as special tools what may be special to you may not be so special to others,speeking for my self i have well over$7000 worth of tools,and the tools needed to work on a jeep axel are not that special to me,simply because they dont use this design anymore,or the other tools needed are simple tools to me that i use all of the time
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2007
  16. Jun 16, 2007
    rkusa

    rkusa rkusa

    Western NC
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2007
    Messages:
    102
    Manual is my next tool.....
    I found the vapor lock problem and fixed it. My fuel line was to close to the engine.

    Also, my heater hoses feel kind of hot.....is this normal.

    I was able to drive it today a bunch. It doesn't stall out anymore, and since I live on a cliff, 4 wheeling is just required. It did real good at getting me unstuck several times, and so I think it will be a good car for here.

    $7000 in tools....krap, I have about $20.00 in tools, so, I suppose they are all special to me.
    OK while I wait for my manual to arrive, I am going to paint stuff. Would rustolium
    primer be ok for the underneath of the Jeep.

    There are hardly any badly rusted places under it.....although under the battery tray and the same place on the other side have been bondod to the max.
     
  17. Jun 16, 2007
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    last time i used rustoleum was back in the early 1980's was good stuff then,guess they still make good stuff
     
  18. Jul 31, 2007
    rkusa

    rkusa rkusa

    Western NC
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2007
    Messages:
    102
    OK....Well I sand blasted the entire underside of the Jeep.....sure wish I could take the body off, but .....I just don't have the equipment yet.
    I blasted it, then scraped it, then sprayed it with P.B. Blaster.
    Blaster has worked for me before on other stuff as it penitrates and stops rust.
    Then I primered it with Rustolium, and that's it.
    I also rewired everything from the brake switch back.
    I also installed all new stainless steel fuel lines, removed and cleaned the gas tank.
    The sending unit for the fuel gage still works, but gives retarded readings.
    All the lights front and back work good.

    I also finally did move the distributor forward a tooth, and it made a big + with how the engine runs.

    So.....next it's more painting and some body work. Then I will do the wheel bearings and King pin bearings.
    I found out I need a spindel wrench.
    I'm sondering if the tires are to big on this Jeep.
    27A front with 265x 15x75 tires..
    That's it for now....more pic's soon.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2007

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