Headlight Switch

On my headlight switch ('58), when I pull it half way for parking lights, sometimes the parking lights and dash light come on, sometimes one or the other, and sometimes neither. Wiggling it and trying again will usually get both to come on. Plus always when the headlights are on, the dash light goes off. I'm thinking the switch is either dirty or worn. Are these switches rebuildable? Or best to just order a new one from Walcks?

 

I have a marine switch I am not going to use that you can have for shipping. It only has three lugs and the parking lights stay on with the headlights. I needed a switch where the first click went off when pull out to the second click. PM me if you want it, it's brand new, and the Jeep knob fits it.

 

If you pry the tabs open carefully, it is possible to open the case, clean and lube the contacts, then crimp it together again.

The interior contacts may be cleanable, or in some cases they are burnt too much and a new switch may be necessary.

 

Usually they are just dirty and/or oxidized. Such a condition is common for old equipment that hasn't been used daily. Exercise or exercise with contact cleaner will probably cure it.

Such switches are often held together with long rivets. If you drill out the rivets, they will come apart - they can then be put back together with screws. I have used 4-40 or 6-32 threaded rod, depending on what fits in the rivet holes.

Once open, about all you can do is clean and lubricate the contacts. But before you do that, as Focker mentions, flood the switch with contact cleaner and exercise the bejesus out of it. I think you'll pay a lot for contact cleaner at the auto parts store; I have a can of this on my bench now https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specia...id=1477311066&sr=8-7&keywords=contact+cleaner cause it was cheap when I bought it ... not now. Any of these will be ok - https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=contact+cleaner Deoxit is best but pricey. Spray the cracks and shaft hole liberally - anywhere you can get the cleaner to go inside the switch. Then exercise, exercise, exercise. Try it before you do anything more drastic.

 

"Such switches are usually held together with long rivets."


In this instance, I believe the OEM unit had no rivets, so the tabs can be gently bent back to open it.
The trick is reasembling the inside parts carefully when putting it back together.

Contact cleaner may work, but would also remove the lubricant grease.

If a new switch is needed, it may be good to swap in the original knob, since the replicas have a less substantial label engraving.

 

Also check your headlight dimmer switch. I had some "weirdness" going on with my headlights that led to me losing them on the way to a hunting trip some years back. It ended up being a faulty ground wire on the dimmer switch.

 

PeteL is right, you can pry that open. I would keep in mind that it's only a $20 part, and quickly available through RockAuto. You'd probably spend $10 to buy contact cleaner to try and fix it from outside. But I think dissolving the grease inside is not a problem. The ones I've opened up contained some brown grease, which was probably dried-out dielectric grease. I suspect it's put in there to stop corrosion and repel water, not so much to lubricate. Contact cleaner would liquefy whatever grease is in there, and recoat everything nicely. Whatever. I'd try the cleaner and exercise first, since I've revived many such parts that way, for cars and washing machines and lots of audio equipment. This is a very common problem with mechanical switches.

 

The original switches generally lasted a lifetime. The "new" reproductions are made offshore and last a few years. If you can find a "made in USA" or an original Cole-Hersee brand, those are the good ones.
-Donny

 

Well this is great news for me. I've got another project on the list now. You Jeepers are going to keep me busy for a long time! Yay! - says the wife.

 

Got around to pulling the switch out today. Before I open it up, does anyone have a pic of the inside so I know what to expect? No luck googling for pic of innards.

 

It's pretty simple.

 

Just wanting to see if springs, steel balls, pins, etc. are going to fall out or are under tension.

 

Yes there two slider contact plates that are under spring tension. Open slowly.

 

I had to fix the hood light switch in my F-350 because of the mercury bulb, they don't make that style any more but it is generally regarded as superior to the environmentally friendly replacement (or so I've heard). But I'd probably just buy a replacement if the price was right and the quality was about as good as what I had before. Still, always fun to see what you can fix if you have the time for the challenge.

 

Opened it up tonight and contacts were really crusty, greasy and dirty. Original grease was almost like dried glue. I could see where water had dripped on it at one point and creeped inside the switch. Forgot to take a pic of the crusty connections but showed wife and told her I found the issue. Totally cleaned it up, polished the contacts, wire wheeled the rust and screw connection surfaces. I tested it by holding it together and you can actually feel the contacts as you pull the switch now. Just gotta find place to get the right grease and clamp her back together. I'll probably wire the parking lights up with the headlights while messing with it.

 

Yep I know. Just thinking I might do it like newer stuff. But the more I think about it, I want it to be the old odd stuff. If I get pulled over by some yoko I'll just explain him the facts of life as they existed back in 50's and tell him grandfathered in.

 

I used an original head light switch for my electric wipers, first click low speed, second high speed. I found there were four lugs on the switch I used, one lug the parking lights came on when pulled out to the first click and went off when pulled out all the way, another lug they stayed on when pulled out all the way, so you have the option to do it either way, at least on the switch I have. The one in the picture has four lugs on it. Good luck anyway, hope this helps.