Having a difficult time putting on the knuckle oil seals !

I tired putting the oil seal on the back of the steering knuckle and then putting it on. No luck . so i took it off and tried to put the oil seal over the axle and it broke. the part i'm talking about is a rubber piece that has some plating in it to make it hard . please help me and tell me how to do this correctly . oh yeah when i had it on the steering knuckle i tried to for it on there with no luck. ihave a m38a1 if this helps any.

 

Mike: Try Vernco's site.

http://www.vernco.com/id373.htm

 

I am betting that you have everything apart. (is much easier that way). Also the axles have the same outers dana 25 and 27/27a

this is the order:
clean the axle housing w/solvent.
use emery paper (about 600 grade) and polish the knuckle. (use wd-40 or equalalent as lube)
the seal goes next. (I recommend the napa one, as it is a one piece rubber design)
the knuckle is next.
install the seal on the knuckle.
never seize the dickens outta all the fastners. (is easier to take apart later)
install the kin pins.
check the tension w/fish scale. (should be about 10-11 pounds)
add remove shims as needed.
recheck.
assemble.
I recommend using oil, however it is personal, some use grease.

 

Y'know, you've got it this far apart, might as well go all the way.

The kingpin bearings in your jeep are bad. The way to tell if they are bad is that they are there.

I've worked on a lot of jeeps, and have never seen a set of kingpin bearings that weren't bad. In their whole life they only make about 3/4 turn, the lubrication (on the uppers) is marginal at best.

Any sand or dirt that gets in there stays there.

If you replace the bearings replace the cups as well.

This is not a tough job.

While the unit is apart you can slip the seals over the knuckle for replacement after you have put it together. Setting pre load sounds intimidating, but you can use a fish scale and it will work fine. Set the pre load without the seals installed.

The bearings and cups are expensive if you buy them from a jeep parts vendor. I've gone straight to the bearing distributor and gotten them for a whole lot less.

I stuck with the Timken bearing rather than an off brand.

The vernco site mentioned earlier takes you through the process pretty well.

good luck

 

Ah yes, the voice of an experienced jeeper! I agree with all of this. What I wanted to add was: are you installing a new seal? I have actually aquired some seals that were not cut. Is that your problem? I have no idea how you were supposed to install them without that cut so I cut them with tin snips. Another thing; don't "pull" it open to get it over the axle, that will just distort it & prevent it from sealing, twist it like part of a coil spring. You can even put it on after everything is assembled with this technique, although, like the above post said; your this far, you may as well go all the way & fix it all.

Also, you aren't mixing parts are you? The early military seals & some other brands vary slightly. Each seal comes with everything you need. Don't try to mix some of the old parts with the new stuff supplied with you new seals, it won't work.

 

Alright. I've been down to the kingpin bearings. Cleaned everything up really well, sanded the knuckle, and started putting her back together.

My new rubber seal does not seat in the knuckle. Can I put it on there, put the felt seal on, and tighten'er up hoping it'll seat itself? I did this once, and I could barely move the knuckle when I was done,,,I mean barely move the knuckle. Right now my preload is about 16lbs before putting the seals on.

Thanks

 

thought you were supposed to check preload before adding seals. might need some shims removed to loosen the knuckle.

 

The page is unavailable.

 

Just did my type 27. I have seen 2 types of seal. One very expensive from fedral mogul the other from Jeepdoc.com. The FedMog was a steel plate with a thin neopreene/synth rubber bonded to the steel plate. The plate was large enough that it was drilled for the mounting bolts. I didn't use that one as it did not come with the felt scrubbers. The one I used consisted of a round rubber unit rectangular in cross section with a small extruded lip to the inside. The steel core ring was not continous it had a break in it, however the rubber formed around it was not broken. I used a razor blade to cut the ring at an angle so as to get more surface to seal when it was put back together.
Next ditto to the clean sand smooth the axle ball. The knuckle has a recessed grove where the seal sits. I installed the seal so the extra extruded lip was on the outside, this caused a tight seal, however it was a pain to get it to seat. I ended up holding it inplace with the split at 12 o'clock straight up then I put a felt together with the steel half moon bolting retainer on the bottom started it and forced everthing up tight against the ball then thightned a little more. When I was sure the rubber seal was properly seated I than tightened the lower up snug and proceded to the top Half moon/felt seal.
The seal added probably another 5 pounds of pressure to the swivel pressure.
When I replaced the bearings and races, witch was easy, I tried the old shims and they were just right.
Newer axles just need shims on the top, The older shim both top and bottom, the change occured in the early 60'S I think.
I used 50/50 axle grease/gear lube, I am hoping that the thin pudding when het will keep the bearings lubed and when cold even the felt will keep the goo of the garage floor. I used a kitchen syrenge to shoot the stuff into the knuckle through the fill hole, I was able to get some extra in so the ujoint should sit in the stuff.
Good luck

 

I did set preload prior to putting the seal on. I took it all apart, did it again, and the second time everything feels right.

Unfortunately, my neighbor just showed me how properly pack a bearing. I'm going back in for those kingpin bearings tomorrow I guess, and the rear axle bearings.

By the time this jeep is done teaching me a lesson, I might know something about wrenchin.

Thanks All