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Hat Channel Removal?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Don X, Aug 28, 2016.

  1. Aug 28, 2016
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

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    I have to replace the hat channel on the underside of the front section of a tub. What's the proper way to remove it? Most of it is too flush to the floor pan to get a cutoff wheel in there without cutting the floor.

    Technique? Proper tool? Anything else?
     
  2. Aug 28, 2016
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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  3. Aug 28, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

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    Yep, get more than one though. But they do work well, it just takes patience. You need to get to bare metal to properly locate the spot welds so wire wheeling first is in order. The little pointer is spring loaded so lightly center punching helps for locating it.
     
  4. Aug 28, 2016
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

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    Thanks guys. That get me started in the right direction. Sounds tedious but so be it. Any idea how close the spot welds will be?
     
  5. Aug 28, 2016
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    just drill through the floor and hat channels at each spot weld from above . your going to throw out the old channel anyway . and you get a new hole for spot welding the new piece in . I replaced all of mine with 1 X 3 thin wall tubing , but tub was off frame and sitting on supports
     
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  6. Aug 28, 2016
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

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    I've got the tub off.
     
  7. Aug 28, 2016
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    well there you go . just take die grinder with a cut off disk . cut away channel on both sides leaving just the sheet metal edge on bottom of floor . figure out where each spot weld is grind on each side of weld and remove whats left of hat channel between welds . once that's done just grind down spot weld . but still would work drilling from the top too
     
  8. Aug 28, 2016
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

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    I have a spotface cutter but I simply ground through the channel over every spot weld. Once thin, pry up a little and it'll leave a little pucker in the thin ground metal to give you a clear target.
     
  9. Aug 28, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    The best way for me to remove spot welds is to dill a hole through where you see them after wire wheeling. If I had a spot weld cutter I would have used it for sure. You miss sometimes and a good sharp cold chisel is what you use to cut the rest out.
     
  10. Aug 28, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

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    The idea with the cutter is to remove the bad metal without damaging the good metal.
     
  11. Aug 29, 2016
    montanacj

    montanacj Member

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  12. Aug 29, 2016
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    Save time and do it right. Go back to reply #2 by PeteL. That is the tool made for the job. Either 5/16 or 3/8 will be the size you need. Buy an additional cutter (the hole saw cutter is replaceable) because they can shatter, but they don't really get dull.
    As mentioned above, clean the row of welds with a wire wheel or something that exposes the actual depression from the spot weld. Centerpunch the center of the spot weld to hold the Blair cutter centered. In your case, cut all the way through both the floor and hat channel so you have a hole in the correct location for a rosette weld when you position the new hat channel under the floor. Keep the drill at fairly low speeds.
    The beauty is the Blair cutters can only cut one layer of the weld with a little practice, leaving the other side with only a nub of weld to grind away.
    I don't know how I got along so long without these cutters, and they are perfect for Don X's project.
    -Donny
     
  13. Aug 29, 2016
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    I just saw Montana's link to Blair on Amazon, and I don't like that style with the drill for a pilot. The one PeteL linked works much better with the spring loaded center pin for a pilot.
    -Donny
     
  14. Aug 29, 2016
    montanacj

    montanacj Member

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    I haven't used either of these so I would take donny's advice, the other tool that Pete listed seems to break a lot on the reviews but I suppose care and patience would prevent some of that.
     
  15. Aug 29, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

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    Depends on how many you have to remove.........Blair makes two types of tools..........one is a cheap version that has a cheap cutter attached that is reverse-able while the other is actually a replaceable cutter.........the later more expensive will last longer..............sometimes it's easier to find them by feel............it's just a small bump.......mark what you find then wire brush just that area..........a drop cord light when moved over the part will allow you do see the small impression much better. Use a center punch and drill a small pilot hole in the "CENTER" .............the 3/8" size is probably best as it will give you a little leeway if your off center some.............always cut from the side of the body part that you are going to replace and only cut through that one panel........that saves the good panel and lessens the finish work down the road. Always drill / cut at 90 degrees to the panel and use a variable speed drill............if you allow it to bite at an angle it will chip or break the teeth on the cheaper tool......................use some lube..............you'll get the hang of it after a while!
     
  16. Sep 1, 2016
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

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    Drill through the floor and through the hat channel. Remove hat channel. When you weld back, you want to weld the light gauge metal, the floor which will have a hole in it now, to the heavier gauge metal, the hat channel. Doing it this way, you can run the welder a little hotter and get a good puddle weld. I use a brad point drill bit to drill out spot welds, the bits are easy to find.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2016
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  17. Sep 11, 2016
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Interesting. I bought the cheap disposable HF versions. I think i bought three.

    As mentioned by a few, dont drill through the good panel. Leaves a little stump that comes off easy with a grinder. Suppose you could if you wanted to.

    I did the driver side firewall support panel.

    Ymmv

    Pictures when you get at it.
     
  18. Sep 12, 2016
    samned

    samned Member

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    I have used the cheap HF model spot weld cutter but they seem to break and wear out easily. I went ahead and ordered one from Northern tool for about $30.00 and it has been great. I don't remember the name brand but it has a lifetime warranty. This one works great.
     
  19. Sep 12, 2016
    cj6/442

    cj6/442 Sponsor

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    this all is rather funny ,,, this is Don X....... I'm almost positive he will bleed all over everything and get metal in his eyes
     
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  20. Sep 12, 2016
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

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    (sigh) I remember there was a time you liked me...or at least you did a good job of pretending.
     
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