Hard Engine Starting Question

The 55125 is the only one that is even close. So I ordered that part (Amazon Prime) and will see if it works. I have a feeling that it might be too long. But if this is the case I suppose I can stack a couple washers on it. I've had very little luck finding parts specific to the Rochester 2g carb. Thanks to all for the tips though, at least I have a direction to go on the repair.

 

I ordered parts from these folks a few times:

Quadrajetparts.com

I replaced that goofy inline-in-carb filter with just a threaded barb of the correct size (got it on their site). I didn't want the same problem.

Just make sure you have a good old fashion in-line filter.

I have the 2G, manual choke version (1969) for the 225.

My first order had new accel pump, jets, power valve, and a few other trinquets.

Here was my last order:

1 x Rochester 2G Carburetor Rebuild Kit (R), Chevy 1970, Chevy/GMC Truck 1969-71, Jeep 1966-71 (4030R) = $28.95
1 x Power Valve Assembly, OEM# 7011989(3661A) = $11.95
1 x Accelerator Pump Discharge Springs - (5 Pak) (1025A) = $2.50
1 x Accelerator Pump Return Spring- (1040B) = $1.95

 

Thank you for that. I found that site yesterday and ordered:

7/8"-20 x 1/2"-20 - .400" Thread Inlet Fitting

It has more threads so it should reach deeper into the carb where the threads are undamaged.

I'm going to try that first before I try the self-tapping fitting.

 

I have found JB Weld to be completely fuel-proof. One other approach would be to glue the fitting into the carburetor body without the filter and add an inline filter as suggested by Dane. You can simply cut out a section of 5/16" line in the hard line coming to the carburetor and use the original tubing with the new filter. Here's your replacement filter: More Information for FRAM G2 No need to flare the tubing or use a flared fitting - rubber hose will seal to the tubing if you clamp it.

 

That's interesting, I recently used JB Weld to seal a rollover valve to my underseat tank. It dissolved after about a week. This was the original JB Weld, however, and they do make a version that is rated for fuel tank repair. It comes in a stick of putty that you knead before applying.

 

Their web site says fuel resistant - FAQs - but I have used it to plug holes in carburetors and it has been completely stable. They suggest their stick epoxy for fuel immersion, but the web page for that product makes no additional claims about it being fuel proof.

I suspect curing time will make a difference in how fuel-proof it is. Was there fuel in the tank? Constant exposure to vapor may have prevented it from curing properly.

 

I used it to seal the vent on the cap (which had not been used yet), the rollover valve which i put through the sending unit plate, and to seal a pinhole in the float. All were allowed to dry at least 24 hours before coming in contact with liquid fuel or vapors. The epoxy didn't fully dissolve, it just became soft and crumbled away.

 

Well, the Quadrajet extended inlet fitting worked well. It was able to bite into the undamaged threads in the carb. I painted the threads on the fitting with Permatex No. 3 for extra assurance. I also found a NOS fuel pump on eBay which I installed as well. Just got back from a test drive and everthing seems to be OK. Now I just will have to see what happens when I go to start the Jeep after it sits for a few days...

 

Might be sacrilege but I'm putting an electronic pump on mine for two reasons: to help with the 'long time between drives' and to assist with the switch between an under-seat and rear tank if one sucks air while driving (runs empty); added this setup years ago when I had dual tanks on a power-wagon. helped a lot then.